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Posted

I'm not sure if they're still the best but I really like Tayo Yuden, and they're not too expensive:

http://www.supermediastore.com/taiyo-yuden-cd-r-media-cdr-media.html

I use the white inkjet discs (I find some computer drives have an easier time reading the white label opposed to the silver).

Verbatim AZO-Blue are supposed to be really good as well. I have a few of these discs that are at least 6-7 years old that all read fine.

Posted

I swear by Taiyo Yurden discs since I've yet to have one fail in the 10 years or so that I've been using them. I have well over 100 of them and they're all still mint and read like new. I just drop by the store every now and then and pick up a pack of the made in Japan Fujifilm CDR's, they just plain work.

I've also heard great things from the local audio guys about the Mitsui Gold discs which are made in Colorado, but I have no experience with them so I can't comment.

Posted

Get a good burner. I cannot stress how extremely important this is. You will simply be flabbergasted by the number of errors that appear in burns from crappy burner.

And yes, TY all the way. :angel:

Posted

Get a good burner. I cannot stress how extremely important this is. You will simply be flabbergasted by the number of errors that appear in burns from crappy burner.

And yes, TY all the way. :angel:

Being a mac user, not much of an option there, unless I get myself an external unit or stand-alone unit.

Posted

Being a mac user, not much of an option there, unless I get myself an external unit or stand-alone unit.

Oh! I see. :D

The burner inside the Mac could be sufficient; I don't know. :P Or you can get a good burner and stuff in it an external USB/Firewire 5.25" enclosure if necessary later on.

Once you get your Taiyo Yuudens, burn something and run a scan on it with cdspeed.

http://www.cdspeed2000.com/

It'll tell you how good your burns are.

Some drives support the better testing program k-probe, but the Mac built-in burner probably doesn't. But maybe. :D

http://www.k-probe.com/

Best of luck! ;)

Posted

Jeebus those are expensive. Although not as bad as MoFi branded ones.

SWIM actually uses them to burn out of print MFSL and DCC cds that SWIM acquires digitally. ;)

Posted

I don't know if it'd be worth saving a nickel, when it probably will just go back into reshipping.

Thing is, since they are a dollar each, and some of us don't need many of them, a group buy would be nice. I would be in for like.. 20 of them.

Posted
Thing is, since they are a dollar each, and some of us don't need many of them, a group buy would be nice. I would be in for like.. 20 of them.
25 is "like" 20 of them. Why don't you just buy 25 of them?

I still have my BASF ceramics for mastering.

Posted

Considering getting a 100pack of the TY's to start and maybe 25 of those fancy gold discs for the really special recordings.

A couple questions.

1. I've got a NEC DVD Burner. Any reason to get a better [possibly external] CD burner?

2. What application should I use? I've got a full version of Nero and UltraISO.

3. Should I do a direct copy from disc to disc using the same drive, multiple drives, creating an image, ripping to WAV first, etc?

4. Should I volume normalize the discs? I've heard this can help loud/hot recordings sound less... like ass. :)

5. What printer works well with those white inkjet printable TY's? I don't have a printer at the moment and if I was to buy one I would probably get a laserjet, but having printed labels on my copies would be kind of cool.

6. Any suggestions on an application that will search out and print track listings and possibly album art for the discs I'm copying?

Thanks in advance. :)

Posted

>1. I've got a NEC DVD Burner. Any reason to get a better [possibly external] CD burner?

Dunno.

>2. What application should I use? I've got a full version of Nero and UltraISO.

I use EAC for all my burns.

>3. Should I do a direct copy from disc to disc using the same drive, multiple drives, creating an image, ripping to WAV first, etc?

If you are just copying from disc to disc, I think the best way to go is use EAC to create a disc image, then use EAC to burn that same disc image. When I burn CDs I am mostly burning from FLACs. I use the integrated dbPoweramp or whatever it is called to convert all the FLAC to wavs, then I create a cue sheet in EAC by dragging and dropping onto the write screen.

>4. Should I volume normalize the discs? I've heard this can help loud/hot recordings sound less... like ass. :)

No. And nothing will make your loud/hot recordings sound less like ass. ;D

>5. What printer works well with those white inkjet printable TY's? I don't have a printer at the moment and if I was to buy one I would probably get a laserjet, but having printed labels on my copies would be kind of cool.

Dunno.

>6. Any suggestions on an application that will search out and print track listings and possibly album art for the discs I'm copying?

I don't know of a program, but I'm sure there must be one. I just write on my CDs with a klone marker. :)

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So I had the day off work, so I decided to have a MAM-A party!

Ingredients for a sweet MAM-A party:

1. MAM-A CDRs. I had 74min Audio CDRs, 74min Archival CDRs, and 80min 700MB CDRs.

2. A CD Wallet or jewel cases

3. Music to burn

4. Caffeinated beverages

5. Time

MAM-A PARTY TIME!

mamaparty002bx9.jpg

mamaparty007nk5.jpg

:dance: :dance:

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