swt61 Posted March 15 Author Report Posted March 15 (edited) Working on a Factory Trawler in the Bering Sea, with lots of Norwegians on board, I find in general that Norwegian wood tends to be smallish. Not that that's a bad thing. I don't like any competition in that realm, and as I've stated many times my real interest lies around back. Edited March 15 by swt61
Grahame Posted March 15 Report Posted March 15 31 minutes ago, swt61 said: Working on a Factory Trawler in the Bering Sea, with lots of Norwegians on board, I find in general that Norwegian wood tends to be smallish. Not that that's a bad thing. I don't like any competition in that realm, and as I've stated many times my real interest lies around back. Shouldn't that be "aft", given the nautical setting. And if the sailors were dismissed for being naughty, would they be (dishonorably) discharged Sea Men? 1 1
swt61 Posted March 16 Author Report Posted March 16 I really do think that a router table is something that should be built as apposed to bought. It's a pretty basic project, and it's great to build to the size your shop will accommodate. And accessories can be built to need.
swt61 Posted March 16 Author Report Posted March 16 My favorite router table plan is still the Woodsmith plan that Al and I built 6 1/2 years ago. 1
Voltron Posted March 16 Report Posted March 16 61/2 years ago? It can't be that long ago because you're so young! It is a great router table regardless
swt61 Posted March 16 Author Report Posted March 16 Someday we'll have to try out the mortising function. 1
luvdunhill Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 Hi all! I am repairing a piece of walnut that broke off and am in need of a stain to darken and color match. I am not sure what the best approach might be - tinting a linseed based oil finish or applying a water-based stain and then finishing with the above oil based finish. Any suggestions?
swt61 Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 Is the repair also Walnut, just lighter in color? If so I would start with a strong brew of black tea. Keep applying the tea until the color is similar in tone. 1 teabag to 1 cup of boiling water should be about right. Apply the linseed finish afterwards.
swt61 Posted March 25 Author Report Posted March 25 If that doesn't darken it enough, switch to a strong coffee brew.
luvdunhill Posted March 25 Report Posted March 25 19 hours ago, swt61 said: Is the repair also Walnut, just lighter in color? If so I would start with a strong brew of black tea. Keep applying the tea until the color is similar in tone. 1 teabag to 1 cup of boiling water should be about right. Apply the linseed finish afterwards. Thats correct. First photo is raw after the repair and second is one coat of the linseed finish. Think I need to go darker quicker without applying more finish coats..
luvdunhill Posted March 26 Report Posted March 26 (edited) 42 minutes ago, swt61 said: Pretty good repair. Just for knowledge acquisition - water based stains go on before an oil finish but oil based stains can go on anytime (including between coats?) I need to grain fill a bit so my worry about adding a stain on first is that I blow through it as I am trying to fill in the pores with the oil finish. I would prefer something I can apply anytime hence the question about a tint in the oil finish. Edited March 26 by luvdunhill 1
swt61 Posted March 26 Author Report Posted March 26 You can absolutely tint the oil finish. https://www.rockler.com/mixol-universal-tint-kit-colors-1-12?country=US&sid=V91117&promo=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PL&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwwYSwBhDcARIsAOyL0fhvzyuqSXYKR7dz3k9BVFysImMPrvLi49h2ttN7xCJdcfYUNxeiaM0aAnSHEALw_wcB
swt61 Posted April 27 Author Report Posted April 27 Al and I are building some bookcases for his Sister, from White Oak. Our glue up panels are just two 1" x 6" boards, so pretty simple. However, even using dominoes, there are always little fluctuations that need sanded flush. But working in Al's shop is always nicer than the equipment I've had currently or in the past. This is a twin barrel drum sander. 80 Grit on the first drum, 120 on the second. This is automation at it's finest. 5
swt61 Posted May 2 Author Report Posted May 2 Al and I are making 3 bookcases for his Sister from White Oak. They're mid century modern, with a separate base. The base will be 2" stretchers with 6" tapered legs. Here are the legs after tapering with the tapering jig. The cases are roughly 5' long by 28" tall, before the leg assembly goes on. They have one horizontal divider and one vertical divider. They are done except for finish sanding and a Rubio mono-coat finish. We still need to assemble the bases. 3
Voltron Posted May 2 Report Posted May 2 Here are the action shots with our tapering jig not suited for this table saw. 3
swt61 Posted May 2 Author Report Posted May 2 (edited) One of three. Still need to assemble the bases onto the other two, then apply some Rubio finish. Edited May 3 by swt61 6
swt61 Posted May 3 Author Report Posted May 3 All assembled, waiting for finish. Finishing is waiting for another project to get finish applied first. More to come on that. 4
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