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Posted
2 hours ago, naamanf said:

Looks great, Steve! Though I do think you could have incorporated a cantilever design and some stained glass with natural design elements to bring the upstairs down and vice-versa. 

Compression and hand(rail) release! A Frank Lloyd Wright principle in action! 

Posted
12 minutes ago, Voltron said:

Compression and hand(rail) release! A Frank Lloyd Wright principle in action! 

Agree. And really could use some natural tulips. 

Posted (edited)
16 hours ago, VPI said:

Nice work Steve. Just looking at it I can see all the things I would have screwed up due to half-assedness. 
 

I broke down all the Sapele and Oak for the chairs in preparation for jointing once I get the jointer dialed in. 
 

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Those are going to be some gorgeous chairs. Really beautiful wood!

 

14 hours ago, naamanf said:

Agree. And really could use some natural tulips. 

I got your tulips right here.

Though come to think of it, you've already kissed them.

Edited by swt61
  • Haha 1
Posted
On 9/18/2022 at 7:21 PM, swt61 said:

My local supply house is out of that model Naaman, but they'll upgrade you to this premium model for the same price.

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I hope he has a SawStop for that wood

Posted (edited)
On 9/28/2022 at 11:45 AM, swt61 said:

Those are going to be some gorgeous chairs. Really beautiful wood!

 

The Sapele is certainly looking nice after jointing. 

Also, I should have gotten the big jointer and automate dust solution a long time ago  

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Edited by VPI
  • Like 5
Posted

Did a ton of bandsawering for the legs and seat edges for the chair and managed to make a giant, expensive pile of weirdly shaped cutoffs I need to come up with a project for. 

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  • Like 3
Posted
10 minutes ago, VPI said:

Did a ton of bandsawering for the legs and seat edges for the chair and managed to make a giant, expensive pile of weirdly shaped cutoffs I need to come up with a project for. 

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Those cutoffs would make a good fire while enjoying the chairs. 

  • Thanks 1
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Posted

Any thoughts on a straight edge that will fit in this space to check coplanarity of the pulleys?

Would need to be 18” long and only .5” wide  the best I have come up with is a plumb Bob and it seems to show it being well out.

 

 

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Posted
2 hours ago, VPI said:

Did a ton of bandsawering for the legs and seat edges for the chair and managed to make a giant, expensive pile of weirdly shaped cutoffs I need to come up with a project for. 

You could make wall art/decor

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  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I've always wanted to make wooden diffuser panels to put on the wall behind my speakers. It's art that serves a purpose. 

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Edited by swt61
  • Like 1
Posted

I have a ton of straight edges, but none this thin. The space for placing the straight edge is less than .5”. 

Posted

That should fit. I think my primary problem was following the instructions and letting the motor pull the belt tight, but the shitty design makes it bind up and not get the belt tight enough. I ended up flipping a squeeze clamp and push the motor down to get a stretch on the belt. 

  • Like 1
Posted

So regardless of the coplanarity, I decided to use a digital angle gauge and zero it on the top pulley and see if the motor pulley matches and it is a full 2.4 degrees off. Not exactly accurate due to the gauge but seems excessive and could certainly be attributing to throwing the belt.  

The motor mount slides down at an angle on the dust chute so I am having trouble figuring out how to level the pulley. Shims under one side???

Posted

I can only assume others with the same model have had this issue. Surely there's a forum where someone has found a fix?

I've never had the room for a bandsaw, so have no real experience with the day to day operation  

Posted

I want to take a moment to encourage another woodworker to post more pics of his projects here.

I'm privy to pics of many of Doug's projects. Doug's work is probably the most impressive to me of all of the woodworkers I know personally. And he's only been doing it for a few short years. His perfectionism is what drives him on, and it certainly shows through in his work. I think that can be a blessing (not you Ric), and a curse at the same time. Projects can turn into year long endeavors. And lots of joinery is scrapped as not up to par. I certainly don't have the patience to meet the criteria Doug not only aspires to, but usually achieves. 

I'm not sure I've expressed to him that he's one of my favorite woodworkers, as well as one of my favorite people. 

I just wish he would share more of his work with all of you. It's truly impressive!

  • Like 3
Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, swt61 said:

I can only assume others with the same model have had this issue. Surely there's a forum where someone has found a fix?

I've never had the room for a bandsaw, so have no real experience with the day to day operation  

Yeah. This is the new jointer, but going through threads on Grizzly/Shop Fox to see if anyone sees this issue. Most have problems with misaligned pulleys so I will go with what the plumb Bob is showing me and move the cutter pulley back a 1/4” and see what blows up next. 

Speaking of blowing things up, time to try flush cutting with this beast. 

 

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Edited by VPI
Posted

I really want to get a nice set of downward spiral and upward spiral flush trim bits.

I love that you don't need to worry about grain direction and chip out. I have heard that the closer you cut to your template first, the better the routing results. Which is just good practice even with a common flush trim bit.

Posted

Yeah, my primary problem is the thickness of the legs. 1 3/4” and the ultimate is only 1 1/4 so I had to start with handheld router to copy the template onto the wood and now I will use that cut out as the template for the big bit. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Not to make you feel bad, but I used Al's Hammer combo to joint the White Oak for the railing I built recently, and Jesus is that thing just a pleasure to use! The resulting edge is perfection too.

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