The making of a SuSy Dynahi

[anorphirith]

I'm trying to make a Super Symmetry Dynahi (not dynalo) the best possible way. (without getting in the ridiculous).

Anyone could direct me to the up to date gerber files, a BOM, any other resources are also appreciated.

Also if any of you previous builders have recommendation on best practices and what to avoid while making the susy please share ! 

Thanks 

 

[gepardcv]

Have you already gone through the existing Dynahi thread? There will be some dead links, but using the search function will get you pretty far.

https://www.head-case.org/forums/topic/9768-kg-balanced-dynahi-build-discussion-thread/?tab=comments#comment-468974

 

Edited June 21, 2018 by gepardcv

[Pars]

I've got a set of boards that I would let go. I'll have to check what version they are.

[anorphirith]

update: I've found an up to date gerber but I'm still looking for a BOM, the one in the thread is out of date.

let me know ! 

thanks 

[gepardcv]

I usually make my own BOMs following the board silkscreens. That way it'll definitely be up-to-date. The only non-obvious parts I remember are the LED, so use LTL-307ELC.

[anorphirith]

update ! 

Pars was gracious enough to supply me with v1.5 boards, I'll hoping sbelyo will have leftover power boards after the GB ships.

I also found a SuSy Dynahi made in 2013 with V1 amp boards and a fancy diy relay based attenuator that's apparently broken (the sound is stuck at a particular level)

So I'll be tinkering with that one before assembling my own. 

larger photos here https://imgur.com/a/YRCZnTI?

If anyone sees obvious defects or bad practices or things I could check for let me know !

[kevin gilmore]

that is amb's step attenuator setup and should be fairly easy to fix.

[Pars]

As Kevin said, probably not too hard to fix. Needs a lot of attention to the wiring in there though, starting with the transformer leads.

[anorphirith]

5 hours ago, Pars said:

As Kevin said, probably not too hard to fix. Needs a lot of attention to the wiring in there though, starting with the transformer leads.

I'm guessing it's one of the relays that have failed, I'm receiving the amp next week, I'll check all that

what do you recommend on the wiring ? 

[jose]

If you allow me, I would do all the wiring again. I don´t like having everything disorganized. There are many wires that cross, are very long or are placed directly on some components.

[anorphirith]

5 hours ago, jose said:

If you allow me, I would do all the wiring again. I don´t like having everything disorganized. There are many wires that cross, are very long or are placed directly on some components.

Thank you, that was my first order of business, it is actually the first DIY I've seen that's so messy, I don't understand why he took the care to add an R2R attenuator and didn't take the time to fix the wires, he probably lost interest at some point.

Which wires are best suited for the re-work (model/brand) ?

I was hoping to have help with upgrading something more subtle like maybe changing the resistors with some that have better tolerance or checking certain bias / voltage to make sure everything is fine ?

I do have a couple questions:

Is that SS relay is for the remote control ?

what's the small toroid transformer vertically attached to the case for ?

what is the unpopulated section of the power board for ?

 

thanks 

 

[jose]

For me it is difficult to distinguish anything.

Resistors look like Vishay RN60. I don´t think they deserve to be changed unless some are burned.

Wires, I don´t use anything specific, just a cable with an adequate thickness and a good dielectric. For the audio signal I sometimes use shielded wire (for microphones or music instruments) sometimes I use Mogami, Canare or just the one available in the electronics/music instruments store of my city…. nothing esoteric.

 

Edit: This is my opinion. Obviously you can use the material you think is appropriate.

Edited July 3, 2018 by jose

[luvdunhill]

The brackets need to be better secured to the heatsinks. Is there a screw head on the fin side of the heat sink, or a blind hole with a threaded post attached?