GrindingThud Posted January 25, 2018 Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 The name column is locked for me...but I was able to add numbers in row 24 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 25, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2018 9 minutes ago, GrindingThud said: The name column is locked for me...but I was able to add numbers in row 24 My fault, I forgot to include the first column for editing. It should work now. I added your name too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrindingThud Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 2 hours ago, cspirou said: My fault, I forgot to include the first column for editing. It should work now. I added your name too. Awesome, thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Drawings updated to reflect the black anodized surface with laser etched text. Text layout is much closer to John McLean's FPE files. Also needed to adjust the vents on the top because there was some overlap with the side panels Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 There is a clearer drawing of the case layout on context engineering’s site here: contextengineering.com/desktop_enclosures.html Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 @Pars I heard back from them. They said the case is threaded and uses standard screws, which come with the case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Cool. Just as a note, you might consider going a bit wider to allow a 0.25” or so gap along each side of the board. (I didn’t check or note the dimensions on your drawing)This would help with airflow/cooling (I think). There is an AC trace down one side of the board so you certainly do not want to use the case slots for the PCB. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 (edited) John's design was 5.25" wide and mine has already been expanded to 5.5". The PCB is 4.8" wide which leaves 0.21" of space on each side. I'll keep it at 5.5" for now because it makes a few of the hole cutouts easier to define and I think you would benefit more from increasing the number of holes on the bottom plate. Ideally I would have wanted the sides to get drilled but that's not the case with this kind of enclosure. I'll see if they have some sort of stock perforated metal. It might bring down the machining cost as well. Edited January 26, 2018 by cspirou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purk Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Should the label be "Dynalo MKII"? This isn't the same as the old 2000 circa Dynalo design right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 7 minutes ago, purk said: Should the label be "Dynalo MKII"? This isn't the same as the old 2000 circa Dynalo design right? Like this? dynalo_front_TKD_mk_v1.pdf dynalo_front_TKD_mk_v2.pdf 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
purk Posted January 26, 2018 Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 Very nice and thanks. The old Dynalo was released back in 2003 or something if I'm not mistaken. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2018 4 minutes ago, purk said: Very nice and thanks. The old Dynalo was released back in 2003 or something if I'm not mistaken. I originally had "Dynalo SuSy" but I changed it for aesthetic reasons. I could put 'supersymmetry' like John did for his case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluebyte60 Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Interested! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Do you know what the panel thicknesses are?Also, I liked the “super symmetry” on John’s design.Also, were you planning on countersinking the corner holes in the Fr/Rear panels, or doing an inset larger blind hole (for inserting socket-type screws)?Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Panel thickness is 0.09" or close to 2.25mm. Corner screws are counter-sunk by default but not indicated in my drawing. I thought about doing a blind hole for the potentiometer, but it seems unnecessary with 2mm panels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 Thanks, was just wondering. They do show a Heavy option on their end plates, but don’t specify what it is.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 29, 2018 Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 I should temper that by saying this isn’t 10mm territory for this case with the panel mounted controls. 4mm might be too thick. Kerry would probably know better. I know John was good with the 2.5mm he used on the FPE case, and it sounds like their std. is close to that.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2018 I asked Kerry once on the Dynalo thread what thickness was required for the panels and he said 0.1" (2.54mm). I believe the XLRs go up to 2.7mm panel thickness. I'd prefer 0.1" but I have no problem with 0.09". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 Yep. It is what it is. Nevermind... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted January 30, 2018 Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 I think I used .125" for the face plate and .1" for the back. I just got some side profiles from FPE that I'm going to try out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted January 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2018 @Kerry - Do you know what kind of screw the RCA uses? Also do I need to add an additional hole for chassis ground? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 (edited) I suppose chassis ground would be to code, though from what I have seen no one who had built/cased one did that. Were you going to put holes in the bottom panel for feet? You could use the one closest to the IEC to run a ground wire. Make sure there isn't any interference from anything on the amp board. The RCAs (and the Neutriks) can be tapped. I just tapped an RCA for M3, and would think 4-40 would work as well. I prefer your v1 lettering above as well. EDIT: for grounding, the IEC has 2 mounting holes in the rear panel, which appear they require a screw/nut. As long as the screw contacts bare metal, those would work for the case grounding as well. Edited February 2, 2018 by Pars Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cspirou Posted February 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 The screws for the bottom panel also do double duty for attaching rubber supports. Holes were not included in my drawings because I dont know where they are located yet. Using the IEC screws sounds like the best way though as you mentioned. So no additional modifications to the rear panels for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kerry Posted February 2, 2018 Report Share Posted February 2, 2018 I used #4-40 for everything. I used tap to thread everything first. I was planning on adding hole for chassis ground though as Pars mentioned the IEC connectors will ground to the chassis. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chiguy Posted February 3, 2018 Report Share Posted February 3, 2018 On 1/25/2018 at 2:20 PM, cspirou said: Neutriks use self tapping screws. I know because i bought standard M3 screws thinking they would be fine and it didn't work. If you bought the plastic A-type XLR jacks you'll need Plastite screws. The last build I did used the Neutrik plastic A series XLR connectors and I think I used M3 screws. Whatever the thread was, I ended up tapping the XLR connectors myself. Added myself to the sheet for one of each. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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