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Posted

First, sincere thanks to everyone who contributed in the forum.I cannot start the project without resources from here.

Recently I have finished my KGBH build but it isn't working.The observable problems are the two LEDs connecting 2sa1968 and the one connecting 2sc3675 do not light up as well as those 1968s not heating.Curiously, the amp works for a second every time after i turn the power off,right after the extinguish of the leds connecting the + and - 15v supply. The PSU unit is  measured of giving the right voltage. I once thought of giving up the project but before that I try my luck to see anyone who once encounter the same problem or know anything about it. Thank you.


 
Posted

Couple of other obvious questions, are you sure all the sand is genuine as that could cause massive issues.  Also are there any shorts on the boards or has the flux been cleaned off?

Posted

That indeed is a good point given that the main semiconductors are long obsolete.  My T2 went together during the first builds with fake 3675's and actually produced sparks.  Killed just about every bit of silicon as collateral damage.

Posted

Thank you for all the reply.

RE Craig Sawyers Both channel failed and the parts are correctly wired and checked for several times.

As yousaid maybe it is probably due to the sands. Maybe a all-around replace of sand is needed,which is the thing i want to avoid the most.

I am in Hong Kong  and in fact stores from mainland china have all the parts i need at a unbelievable low price, 20cent USD for 2sa1968 for example,but the reliability is as low as the price observed from my failure of the project.

Posted

Curiously,my a1968s in the psu board are working somehow,but a total replacement is seems to be the only solution.

And anyone knows where is the best place to source the sands?Are they still avaliable?thanks a lot for all the advice.

Posted

Yes - Dalbani were the outfit that supplied me with junk  2sc3675's.  When I put one or two spares on the curvetracer they broke down at 400V or thereabouts instead of 900V minimum.  Avoid Dalbani like the plague.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, JoaMat said:

bdent.com seems to have a few in stock. USD14.29 each if you buy 25 pieces or more. You need 28 pieces?

At that rate it may be cheaper to build Kevin's BJT version of the Blue Hawaii from scratch!

Edited by mwl168
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

a1968 has the cutouts between the pins, so could be real. no cutouts, definitely fakes. although the ones from dalbani had the cutouts and were definitely fakes.

still a good idea to use a tester first.

Edited by kevin gilmore
Posted

Thank you kevin gilmore. i have no idea they are fake or not

Can a ordinary digital muitimeter do the job? Or do i need anything specialized for transitor testing

Posted

Dalbani are crooks, bought 100 or so 1968's few years ago when I had John's old KGSSHV offboards and luckily with the Dy294 on hand they all had a break down voltage of 190ish to 320. Then I bought 10 1968's from a supplier in China for around $40, they tested all fine and dandy and are still in use today in a KGSSHV I helped a friend build. Lots of fake 2SC3675, 2SA1967 and 1968's floating about so have to becareful.

Posted (edited)

Also check the breakdown voltages of  2SJ76/2SK216 while you are it, I had a few that did not meet the specs.

DY294 is great for taking the uncertainty out of the parts quality.

Edited by b0bb

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