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Posted
4 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Apple core plywood is a good alternative, if you can find it. 

It's the American version of BB, and comes in 4' x 8' sheets, instead of 5' x 5'.

I dunno, is it okay with Larry if we use that? We haven’t asked permission after all.

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Posted (edited)
14 minutes ago, dsavitsk said:

Not in CT as far as I can find. But I haven't looked in a few years.

The web is showing that Connecticut Plywood Inc. in West Hartford is carrying Appleply.

Edited by swt61
Posted

Put the jointer together.  It is garbage.  I am not even willing to turn it on while I am the same room with it as everything about it is so cheap and poorly designed.

 
Going to just put it out with recycling next week, I would rather not have a jointer than use this thing. 
 

 

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Posted
25 minutes ago, VPI said:

Put the jointer together.  It is garbage.  I am not even willing to turn it on while I am the same room with it as everything about it is so cheap and poorly designed.

 
Going to just put it out with recycling next week, I would rather not have a jointer than use this thing. 
 

 

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I’m sure Steve would be happy to use it for his penis extensions. They don’t have to be straight. 
 

Put an extension on the outfeed of the planer.   I had to briskly walk around the machine to catch the board, this should let me take it easy. 

 

 

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Posted
29 minutes ago, VPI said:

Put the jointer together.  It is garbage.  I am not even willing to turn it on while I am the same room with it as everything about it is so cheap and poorly designed.

 
Going to just put it out with recycling next week, I would rather not have a jointer than use this thing. 
 

 

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If you're serious I'd be happy to pay shipping and give you a little for your trouble. I can use it for framing/deck projects that aren't critical. 

Posted

Sorry it is going back to Grizzly.  I decided they needed to eat the cost for shipping out such shit.

Shipped out with a thin styrofoam packing that was broken into a thousand pieces when I got it.  Going back in the same fucking packaging. 

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Posted
On 4/24/2021 at 5:47 PM, luvdunhill said:

 

 

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Soo.. what you are telling me is the white stripe on that black square thing is positive, not negative? Ok, that released some smoke and fire…

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Posted

The amount of lumber I would waste trying to figure out how to properly do those joints in unfathomable. That thing is awesome. 

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Posted

It really only works well when you've taken the time to level your floor as well as Doug has. He was smart in taking the time and effort to do that.

Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, swt61 said:

It really only works well when you've taken the time to level your floor as well as Doug has. He was smart in taking the time and effort to do that.

At the bottom of the feet there are cutouts for adding leveling blocks to compensate for floor variance. I put the cabinets in place, level them with shims, measure the spaces with feeler gauge blocks and then plane down small pieces to fill in the gaps.

Edited by dsavitsk
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Posted

Understood, and I saw those. My point is, the kitchen Al and I just finished had a floor that varied around an inch in 20'. And that's not unusual. 

Posted
10 minutes ago, dsavitsk said:

At the bottom of the feet there are cutouts for adding leveling blocks to compensate for floor variance. I put the cabinets in place, level them with shims, measure the spaces with feeler gauge blocks and then plane down small pieces to fill in the gaps.

Could have built miniature hydraulic lifters to auto level within .0001”

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Posted

BTW, those cabinets will easily last 100 years. And will only get better looking with age and use. If some future owner were to ever replace them, it'd be a damn shame. I'd take them with me if you ever move!

Consider yourself employed for several years if I ever win the lottery!

Posted
15 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Understood, and I saw those. My point is, the kitchen Al and I just finished had a floor that varied around an inch in 20'. And that's not unusual. 

The kitchen floor here was pretty out of whack before the remodel, but they doubled up some of the joists in the basement and used 4x4 posts to help level it out a bit.

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Posted

Attempt #1 in gluing quartz to wood.  Definitely should have worked with the handplane before attempting this glue up.  Not sure how well it is going to work. 

Also hung up the clampseses.

 

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Posted
1 hour ago, swt61 said:

. I'd take them with me if you ever move!

We've debated what we would do. Hard to know if it helps or hurts selling the house. (Which is not on the horizon at this point)

1 hour ago, swt61 said:

Consider yourself employed for several years if I ever win the lottery!

You do recall that this kitchen renovation project started in 2018.

23 minutes ago, VPI said:

Attempt #1 in gluing quartz to wood. 

Is that a thing to do? I'd imagine wood movement will crack the glue. I think I'd put a dot of silicone and let its weight hold it in place. Or else drill little mortises into the quartz and add some corresponding tenons to the frame to keep it from shifting

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Posted

All of my research led to liquid nails as the thing to do for attaching this. Silicone is what is preferred but since these will be  moved around, etc. everything said not to use silicone as it is best for static cabinets, etc. 

Posted

NP-1 Is a more flexible type of construction adhesive. It's as flexible as silicone, but with the holding power of liquid nails.

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Posted (edited)

Building the world’s least efficient hardwood cutoff storage cabinet. Really needed the drawers above it so instead of doing the typical, proper, vertical cabinet, I went half-assed and threw all the sticks in a big drawer with sheets goods held behind the cabinet against the wall. 
 

Oh Yeah, the reason for the uneven overhang is I am going to mount the Wilton Woodworking vice on the one side and needed all the clearance. 
Oh Yeah Part Two, I also FINALLY got around to hanging the small French cleat panel I made way back.  The craftsmanship in these holders in embarrassing.

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Edited by VPI
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