What Are You Building Today

[luvdunhill]

I like things straight, what can I say.
 

So looking for advice. Do I attach my steel wall to the concrete and live with a wavy line, or leave a gap and fill it in later with concrete. I plan on using metal stakes and concrete on the back side of the not-so-great-wall so that would make it straight..

I already want to raise the wall a bit so this is just a dry fit to mark the holes for the to be concreted posts 

Edited January 2 by luvdunhill

[Pars]

Not a construction dude, but the waviness in that wall would drive me nuts. I wasn't sure on your post if you think you can straighten it?

[n_maher]

I doubt any fix would make it look much better.  I feel like I'm missing some overall perspective from the picture, like what is what, i.e. are you calling a "wall" something that's on the ground?  But fixing/blending/hiding a joint in concrete generally doesn't last.  Possible option would be some kind of coating that would span across the joint or if applicable, decorative trim to hide the gap/wave.

[Voltron]

I also can't tell what's what from your photo and description. Is what I circled the wavy line?

[Pars]

Not to disrupt the construction portion, but just got this up and running over the break, and put it in the system for a listen today. In my typical tradition, currently uncased. This is a UGS Muse preamplifier. This uses the UGS 3 Universal Gain Stage (Pass Labs XP 12 and I believe XP 30 use these), with the Muses 72320 volume control chips. This was developed on a French forum (homecinema-fr.com), originally with a relay-based volume control, and then updated with some redesign for the Muses chips. There are threads on diyaudio for a board group buy there as well.

The preamp is fully balanced differential, with 4 inputs and 2 outputs. Even though it provides a HT bypass function, I may hardwire one of the outputs for monitor functionality for headphone amp use. This uses Salas shunts providing the +/-24V for the UGS modules, and regulated down to +/-16V for the Muse chips. Custom Toroidy transformer (4x24V and 2x8V secondaries, dual 115V primaries in their Audio Supreme version).

This was mostly surface mount, and was a challenge to build. The 100 pin CPU (STM32 ARM) was a good time to solder, with a size of about a dime.

I've only listened to this for about 20 minutes or so today; it sounds very good, but getting the Pass Aleph P out might not be so easy

The last picture isn't mine, but shows another builder's case layout. Mine will be somewhat similar I think.

 

 

Edited January 3 by Pars
sp.

[luvdunhill]

1 hour ago, n_maher said:

I doubt any fix would make it look much better.  I feel like I'm missing some overall perspective from the picture, like what is what, i.e. are you calling a "wall" something that's on the ground?  But fixing/blending/hiding a joint in concrete generally doesn't last.  Possible option would be some kind of coating that would span across the joint or if applicable, decorative trim to hide the gap/wave.

I see. So the steel pieces are the wall. If I secure it to the concrete on the right (yes Al is correct with his marking) then it no longer will be straight. If I don’t secure it, it will be nice and straight, but there will be a gap between the steel wall and the concrete on the right. I would need to fill it with some sort of coating (Sika makes a self leveling material and there is some you heat up as well..)

Edited January 3 by luvdunhill

[n_maher]

What's the maximum gap between the steel and the concrete?  I really can't get a sense of scale from the picture and I think that's what's causing part of my difficulty.  

What might be possible is to set the steel straight, use it as a guide, and then cut a chamfer into the concrete to create a gap that looks uniform at the top and hides the variability that exists below it.  Not exactly sure how I'd do that without staring at it a bit longer but that was the first thought that I had. 

[Pars]

-

Edited January 5 by Pars
delete

[luvdunhill]

Two heavy small things

 

[Dusty Chalk]

12 hours ago, luvdunhill said:

Two heavy small things

 

That's really heavy for such a wee thing...at least, I assume it's wee, since there's no banana...have you no bananas?

[swt61]

Son of a *****, I've been looking for my testicle weights for years! Thinking back, it was about the same time as we last got together in person.

Do you understand the implications of being a gay top with tucked up balls?

[morphsci]

Built a vent board for our van AC unit that fits in the back window since they do not provide one and the only prebuilt one was really pretty cheap. This one is much more solid.

Outside view

inside view. We are almost ready for van life, which starts this Saturday. 

[luvdunhill]

Would anyone be able to 3D print two custom sized washers/spacers in yellow for me? 

[swt61]

And an Ebony penis extension!

[luvdunhill]

I am working on building a bathroom and played around a bit with finishing this floating shelf… probably obvious what kind of wood it is but I experimented with opening the grain and using a tinted danish oil.. will try a clear coat when I get the sink roughed in. Pictures are after finish and before.

 

[swt61]

Marc, is that a glue up with a live edge?

[luvdunhill]

It’s a mostly alive edge.

[swt61]

OK. Maybe it's the pic, but I'm seeing 6 separate pieces, with the last piece being live edge. I only bring it up because I've not seen this done before.

[luvdunhill]

Just now, swt61 said:

OK. Maybe it's the pic, but I'm seeing 6 separate pieces, with the last piece being live edge. I only bring it up because I've not seen this done before.

Yeah that’s what I did. To be honest I was lazy.. I found a really nice place to get a nice slab cut ((https://berdollsawmill.com/slabs/) but I am running out of time on this project so I got scrappy. 

[swt61]

I'm not criticizing it, just hadn't seen it before. Not sure what you're planning on using for the final seal coat, but bathroom and kitchen countertops made of wood take a lot of abuse. You need something really tough.

Al has turned me onto a really fantastic, natural product made for marine use. And being a natural, oil based product, it's also beautiful. It's very tough. Al applied it to his garage door in his city house, near the beach. Harsh environment, and it's been several years now and still looks amazing. I haven't found many products that will fare well on a bathroom counter, but this one will. I'd highly recommend it to you.

Pretty Walnut BTW.

[luvdunhill]

Cool - actually it’s not walnut but made to look like it. I did some experimenting and found that a 50/50 water to acetone applied at the second to last standing step opened the pores and allowed the teak to take a tinted oil finish. I was thinking a varnish would be nice.

[mdr30]

 

Edited May 30 by mdr30

[spritzer]

I would have put 1, 2, 3...11 instead of min max... 

[swt61]

I have never seen the word tomater.

I have heard the word pronounced tomater quite often in Texas. I'm guessing you're not in Texas. I'm going to guess Iceland or Norway?

Edited May 30 by swt61

[mdr30]

10 hours ago, swt61 said:

I have never seen the word tomater.

I have heard the word pronounced tomater quite often in Texas. I'm guessing you're not in Texas. I'm going to guess Iceland or Norway?

Plural form of "tomat", Swedish. Produce of Italy, one of the components used in this build of Greek extraction.

Rub fish with juice of lemon. Cut onion in thin slices. Cut tomatoes in chunks, save the juice. Chop parsley, peel garlic. Fry onion for a few minutes, stir. Add tomatoes with juice, press garlic, add parsley, oregano, 1 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Simmer for 10 minutes. Put half the tomato stir in casserole, put fish on top, add the rest of the tomato stir. Add wine. Bake in oven.

I've used cod and salmon successfully, original recipe I guess calls for whatever the Mediterranean Sea brings.