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Posted (edited)
12 minutes ago, swt61 said:

Beautiful!

Is that going to be an electronic case of some type?

BTW, you're in Arkansas, not Louisiana. 

 

5 minutes ago, dsavitsk said:

I think it's a tail vice

Doug has it. Figure I would add some French flair since it is a Roubo. Plus adding a trailer home or dead squirrel would have been to much work. 

Edited by naamanf
  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
Posted
21 minutes ago, VPI said:

It is a safe assumption to make, who would think a magic ping pong table even knows how to function a vice?

It's magical, so of course it can.

  • Haha 1
Posted

A collaboration with a certain northeastern master semiretired circle hole cutter, I present a panel ammeter that has a plain, not hip rgb light source.

working on a second so we can compare two different dials and will play a bit with the LED backlight placement 

A6E0FABD-616D-49F9-9AA4-D9546C7DCA9C.thumb.jpeg.aaf187ebedf6bf0322b8fdcbc42c91e7.jpeg

 

 

  • Like 10
Posted

Marc, what's the piece of gear in the background, with the Red LED bars?

It reminds me of a surround amp that I had back in the 80's. You could completely control the delay of the two surround speakers. It wasn't as intelligent as the old Yamaha units, but you could get some interesting effects. 

It was made by NEC, which seemed odd, even then.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

.. and updated version of my optical speed controller sensor! The original sensor I was using was a victim to pandemic stock levels and I wasn’t happy with the IR filter used. This version also was designed to fit into half of a small enclosure - I would put a sticker or label over the trimmer in the end (or use fixed resistors) but needed to have it available to prototype the comparator sensitivity. I will probably glue dot it to the plinth, no components are soldered to the bottom of the board.
 

I did spec out a actual jack on the board, but having issues finding a mini stereo connector that is more or less the same diameter as the barrel, ensuring it doesn’t stick out below the enclosure - not sure if anyone has a recommendation there. In fact a male-female extension cable that is low profile would work just fine too

41D07721-016B-4B4B-8F81-BB4FFAA0E109.thumb.jpeg.6f1138c16e9161a5266a89caafbe6021.jpeg8BF6AFCD-BB29-4F80-BFA4-3F7CA331404A.thumb.jpeg.1567e3b495a115e143a0adf36bb10436.jpeg448C3602-5E87-4ECA-92CE-6AAA4C24C5CA.thumb.jpeg.4ae10de89cccde0c4de7b86160c52005.jpeg

 

 

 

  • Like 2
Posted

@luvdunhill - was thinking some more about the meter pic posted above and the "hidden" nature of the needle, how hard or accessible is the needle and would some whiteout or white paint be an easy solution to make its position more visible against the black backdrop?

Posted
3 hours ago, n_maher said:

@luvdunhill - was thinking some more about the meter pic posted above and the "hidden" nature of the needle, how hard or accessible is the needle and would some whiteout or white paint be an easy solution to make its position more visible against the black backdrop?

I could probably do that pretty easily! I would need some pretty steady hands though :)

Posted

A small project I did some time ago. DIY solder station for Weller WMRP soldering pen. Check this http://kair.us/projects/weller/index.html .
814784719_BZ8A0408(2).thumb.jpg.76341cd7da173c04bdea2c03e0101ab5.jpg2139989255_BZ8A0409(2).thumb.jpg.cc7c2ef9044614505777ae76de0e5fda.jpg

I ordered ten PCBs, same price as for the one I needed. If you want to try this, ping me and I send you a board for just shipping costs and I pay same amount to Doctors Without Borders. 

Does it work? Yes, only for fine smd jobs. Have I used it? No, not really. Why build it then? Because you can.

  • Like 5
Posted

Finally got the output stage of my amp at least somewhat functioning. Spent a solid few weeks scratching my head and thinking I screwed something up. Nope, both 45 tubes I have had bad heaters. Bought another tube and now everything is as it should be. Next stop: find some output transformers.

20211120 amp output stage test.jpg

  • Like 5
Posted

I successfully designed (Fusion360) and printed my first part on Wednesday.  It's an adapter to transform the diameter of a cyclone dust separator that I'm printing for use with the Shapeoko as my had and I are going to use the machine to make parts/pieces for a quad of Adirondack chairs this winter.  

Stock part left, my part right.

1BF273F6-4FF4-44F7-8E74-69728C5D2973_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.e053be7e17973d992235a9c24e8d1517.jpeg

 

5552C6AB-4ABF-49F3-9031-3819D637A44E_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.8445a65692bb351ae889fac191044ab8.jpeg

Combined

F8642E3F-3E99-4554-9D76-53F4419BE673_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.f2cd12612bdc815bae6d00f745bba908.jpeg

Assembled with 2/3's of the separator, the third piece is printing now and should be done in about 12 hours.  Then I have to print one more each of the nozzle/hose pieces.

 

  • Like 12
Posted

Building some cabinet doors. Trying to decide between 1/4 birch plywood and mdf for the panels. Rail and stiles are Poplar. All doors are going to be painted.


Any sage advice?

Posted (edited)
19 minutes ago, VPI said:

Building some cabinet doors. Trying to decide between 1/4 birch plywood and mdf for the panels. Rail and stiles are Poplar. All doors are going to be painted.


Any sage advice?

Plywood. More durable, especially at 1/4”. Usually HDF is used for one piece machined doors. I plan on trying some of those soon for a vanity. 
 

Nate - Amazing work. I’m slowly cutting my teeth on Fusion but so far really like it. 

Edited by naamanf
Posted

MDF is cheaper, moves less, and is easier to work with. It is also more likely to come apart in a damp environment. I personally would probably do ply, but MDF is probably the right choice.

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