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Posted

Got the drawer dividers cut, glued and clamped up. I cut the drawer material to height, but a tad bit long and wide. I want to wait until the box cures, then I can un-clamp and measure to fit nice and snug.

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I have some drawer glide tape coming. This will attach to the bottom of the drawer sides and allow the drawers to slide with minimal friction. The box is too small for mechanical drawer glides.

  • Like 7
Posted

Three sides of all four drawers are cut, assembled and bottoms slid into place. The drawers will be left natural, with a clear lacquer finish. Except the drawer fronts, which will be stained to match the box. The box sits atop the drawers for weight, to ensure that they dry flat.

Ā 

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Tomorrow I'll cut the fronts to fit and stain them.

Ā 

Not sure what finish I'm goingĀ to use on the box, but IĀ  think it'll probably be boiled linseed oil, with a top coat of Tried-N-True.

  • Like 9
Posted (edited)

I am working on my sailboat motor attachment and am using some 5/16ā€ carriage bolts in the end of the transom so the heads are flush. The material will be something called Starboard, which is a marine HDPE plastic. It will be two 3/4ā€ sheets put together. I am wondering how much material I need to make sure the square part of the bolts catch in the material? Should I just drill 5/16ā€ or go 3/8ā€? The square part is .32ā€ * .32ā€ so the longĀ diagonal of the square is .45ā€.

Edited by luvdunhill
  • Like 1
Posted

I'd be tempted to drill the main hole the diameter of the threaded section and then try to use a countersink or maybe a forstner bit to enlarge a shallow portion to accept the square portion of the neck.Ā  The HDPE is probably hard enough that you don't want to assume much engagement between the neck and the material or you likely won't get it to sit flush.Ā  Some trial and error maybe required but at least it doesn't sound like you have to do this 100 times.Ā  If it's possible to do this on a drill press you should have no issue iterating to get the right combo of depth and size.Ā 

Ā 

Posted
47 minutes ago, n_maher said:

I'd be tempted to drill the main hole the diameter of the threaded section and then try to use a countersink or maybe a forstner bit to enlarge a shallow portion to accept the square portion of the neck.Ā  The HDPE is probably hard enough that you don't want to assume much engagement between the neck and the material or you likely won't get it to sit flush.Ā  Some trial and error maybe required but at least it doesn't sound like you have to do this 100 times.Ā  If it's possible to do this on a drill press you should have no issue iterating to get the right combo of depth and size.Ā 

Ā 

Would the countersink diameter be say 3/8ā€ - just enough to be able to get the bulk of the the square piece in? Yeah, I just need probably 4 or 5 holes.

Posted
3 hours ago, luvdunhill said:

Would the countersink diameter be say 3/8ā€ - just enough to be able to get the bulk of the the square piece in? Yeah, I just need probably 4 or 5 holes.

At that point probably just best to use a hex head bolt and counter sink itā€¦

Posted

When using a carriage bolt, I've often just let the pressure of tightening the nut pull the squared part of the shank into the material. It should work even better in a plastic material.

Posted
5 hours ago, swt61 said:

When using a carriage bolt, I've often just let the pressure of tightening the nut pull the squared part of the shank into the material. It should work even better in a plastic material.

Depends on the relative hardness of the plastic.Ā  With wood I use the same methodology as you and let compressive forces do their thing but have no experience with HDPE.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks. Fitz isn't looking at this thread, because he wants it to be a surprise when it arrives. I hope he likes it, as he just gave me the dimensions he wanted, and gave me free reign after that.

Posted
1 hour ago, swt61 said:

Thanks. Fitz isn't looking at this thread, because he wants it to be a surprise when it arrives. I hope he likes it, as he just gave me the dimensions he wanted, and gave me free reign after that.

Nice! Would some small adhesive Teflon tape or something on the bottom help the drawers slide in easier? It seems if you apply the pull or push force on the end of the drawer it might bind up?

Posted
53 minutes ago, luvdunhill said:

Would some small adhesive Teflon tape or something on the bottom help the drawers slide in easier?

Ā 

On 7/17/2021 at 1:25 PM, swt61 said:

I have some drawer glide tape coming. This will attach to the bottom of the drawer sides and allow the drawers to slide with minimal friction. The box is too small for mechanical drawer glides.

Ā 

Posted

The drawers slide in and out easily now, even though I kept the tolerances tight. But as Doug pointed out, I have 1/64" thick glide tape coming. It's made out of the same thing as a butchers cutting board. That slick, White plastic.

Posted
4 minutes ago, luvdunhill said:

That detail was only in the part you had to read. I just looked at the pictures and gave my own opinion - is that what the kids do these days?

They make memes.Ā 

  • Haha 1
Posted

This was anticipated in 1875:

My grandfather's clock was too tall for the shelf
So it stood ninety years on the floor
It was taller by half than the old man himself
But it weighed not a pennyweight more

It was bought on the morn on the day that he was born
It was always his treasure and pride
But it stopped, short, never to go again
When the old man died

Ninety years without slumbering
Tic toc tic toc
His life's seconds numbering
Tic toc tic toc

etc

  • Like 3

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