Voltron Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 Jim was talking about cutting the miters on all of the trim and base pieces. 1
VPI Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 Oh, I tried that, the shitty fence and clamps on my mitre saw ended up working far worse than the track saw. It was really imperfect Domino application that fucked everything up.
dsavitsk Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 20 hours ago, VPI said: Well, unless I find some way to make a better way to estimate angles for the trim and probably to do more accurate 45 cuts as the track saw likes to lean. https://www.theunpluggedwoodshop.com/mitre-shooting-board.html
swt61 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 ^ You need a router table with fence, because there's nowhere for the bearing to ride if you're cutting a full miter. Unless you tack a strip on top for the bearing to ride against. Still, not the cleanest way to miter plywood.
VPI Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) I actually cut the best 45 degree angles for the thin pieces with a hand saw. The track saw would do great on plywood angles if the Festool setup had some way to lock down the angle besides holding it down when the saw tries to fall over. Edited December 20, 2020 by VPI
swt61 Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 A lot can be done with a track saw, but there's really no replacing a table saw IMO.
dsavitsk Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 29 minutes ago, swt61 said: ^ You need a router table with fence, because there's nowhere for the bearing to ride if you're cutting a full miter. You can clamp a board to it to act as a straight edge for the bearing. Or the festool router can run in the track saw track. 30 minutes ago, VPI said: if the Festool setup had some way to lock down the angle besides holding it down when the saw tries to fall over. I'm not sure I'm understanding your complaint. The track saw should be able to lock in the angle.
VPI Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) It locks in the angle no problem, but Festool provides no way to lock down the saw to the track so it wants to fall over the whole time. You then have to hold the left side of the saw down as you lean across the table trying to make a long cut so if you let up pressure the angle changes. Add to that the two arms you need to manage the vacuum hose and power cord and you need 5 arms to properly do a long 45 degree plywood cut. Edited December 20, 2020 by VPI
naamanf Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 1 hour ago, VPI said: Mitre saws don’t do 30” 45 degree cuts. Need a table saw. Which one are you getting? 1
dsavitsk Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 https://www.rockler.com/dust-right-cord-and-hose-holder Stand on the side of the saw rather than behind it and walk along the cut
morphsci Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 My Makita track saw has a simple little anti-tip device when doing bevel cuts that works pretty well. Certainly works well enough for me. 4
VPI Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 It would make more sense to me for Festool to have some system to lock the saw into the track when cutting at an angle like the competitors do.
dsavitsk Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) They offer a 30 day no questions asked return policy. https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/festool-jigs-tool-enhancements/ts-55-anti-tip/ Edited December 20, 2020 by dsavitsk 3
VPI Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 58 minutes ago, naamanf said: Which one are you getting? Probably Saw Stop with an integral router table. 3
luvdunhill Posted December 20, 2020 Author Report Posted December 20, 2020 It would make more sense to me for Festool to have some system to lock the saw into the track when cutting at an angle like the competitors do. Does the manual talk about a pair of gib cams that can be adjusted? It’s not a lock per se but might provide enough friction to help.
VPI Posted December 20, 2020 Report Posted December 20, 2020 That attaches it to the track without any play, but when angled the whole thing wants to fall over/twist the track unless you add a contraption like Doug showed. 1
naamanf Posted December 21, 2020 Report Posted December 21, 2020 3 hours ago, VPI said: Probably Saw Stop with an integral router table. It’s a popular choice 😉
Craig Sawyers Posted December 21, 2020 Report Posted December 21, 2020 In my shop in my converted garage the power tools I have are: A Wadkin BRA350 radial arm saw. Although this three phase beast can do any compound angle, I have it accurately set up to do 90 degree cuts. To the extent if you use a square on a cut edge, you can't see light through. An industrial grade bandsaw which I've fitted with a Kreg fence with microadjuster. An Axminster planer/thicknesser. That is a 3-blade 30cm cut. Lousy for interlocking grain woods because of tear-out. A router table with a Dewalt 2000W router with depth adjuster. A biscuit jointer. I've also got a pretty comprehensive set of hand tools. But no table saw - and oddly enough have never found a piece that has needed one. The things I make are quite small. I've already got more machine tools than my all-time hero Krenov used to build his iconic furniture, for which he mainly used finely tuned hand tools, many of which he made himself. Even when Krenov was so elderly that he lost his eyesight, he was still making wooden planes (to sell) by feel. Amazing guy. He was also a realist - many of his carcase joints used dowels. But he said that if biscuits has been available when he was working he would have used them instead in a heartbeat.
VPI Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 Got the stick squasher mounted on its table. Now off to YouTube to figure out how the hell it works. The instructions say not to connect it to a shop vac, do I actually have to get another dust extraction system for this?
swt61 Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 It won't really make dust per se, just little chips. Still messy, but not something you're going to breath in.
dsavitsk Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 2 hours ago, VPI said: do I actually have to get another dust extraction system for this? Yes. If you use it outside, you might get away without one. They used to sell it with just a bag, but the internal fan wasn't enough and they clogged so it didn't really work. Also, what good is a planer without a jointer? 1 1
naamanf Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 4 hours ago, VPI said: Got the stick squasher mounted on its table. Now off to YouTube to figure out how the hell it works. The instructions say not to connect it to a shop vac, do I actually have to get another dust extraction system for this? You might as well order this along with a large cyclone extractor. https://byrdtoolexperts.com/shelix-head-for-dewalt-dw735-planer-lander?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=dynamic-search&utm_content=lp-from-standard-groups&gclid=CjwKCAiAz4b_BRBbEiwA5XlVVpc4u6gdRQ-M-Eaqqoj6w9iIqE7V5AwATyFqVlOebRB72OWGf5p3WhoC95gQAvD_BwE 1
swt61 Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 The install of the helix head isn't quite as simple as they make it out to be.
swt61 Posted December 22, 2020 Report Posted December 22, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, dsavitsk said: Yes. If you use it outside, you might get away without one. They used to sell it with just a bag, but the internal fan wasn't enough and they clogged so it didn't really work. Also, what good is a planer without a jointer? A portable/jobsite planar that needs more dust collection than a shopvac? Yeah, that's perfectly sensible. Edited December 22, 2020 by swt61
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