jose Posted May 14, 2018 Report Posted May 14, 2018 My CFA-Unbal/Bal system VSPS: Unbal/Bal preamp not finished yet 11
mwl168 Posted May 14, 2018 Report Posted May 14, 2018 Holy smoke Jose! This is beautiful! Tell us more about it.
jose Posted May 14, 2018 Report Posted May 14, 2018 (edited) Thanks, but it's not impressive either. You only need; A "portable" GRLV (Or rather three GRLV ) Four CFA´s: And Unbal/Bal boards: At the last moment I decided to add a phono preamp (a VSPS) for MM and a capacitative buffer. With a knob you can select the line inputs (one XLR, two SE and one SE for the phono preamp). With the other knob you can select from where you want to send the output signal; directly from the unbal / bal, from unbal / bal + Cap buffer or put the mute. Unfortunately I have not been able to finish the preamp yet. I need to finish Diamond buffers. I have also been working on lighting the volume control. Edited May 14, 2018 by jose 6
mypasswordis Posted May 21, 2018 Report Posted May 21, 2018 Any recommendations on nailers and compressors for reroofing? My parents have needed a reroof going on three years now so it's long overdue, figured I might as well do it myself since it doesn't seem too hard (as long as I don't fall off). Also, is it worth it to apply a sealant/coating? If so, what kind?
swt61 Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 If your using asphalt shingles, a coating is not necessary. You want to start with 50 lb. roofing felt unless you're laying on top of the old roof. A cheap Porter Cable compressor will do fine... https://www.lowes.com/pd/PORTER-CABLE-6-Gallon-Electric-Pancake-Air-Compressor/4764588?cm_mmc=SCE_PLA-_-ToolsAndHardware-_-CompressorsDiyAndStationary-_-4764588:PORTER-CABLE&CAWELAID=&kpid=4764588&CAGPSPN=pla&store_code=3095&k_clickID=9ad8cc19-1d7f-43de-b203-f066a153f524&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3InYBRCLARIsAG6bfMQK5c4ispX7SCzq3ZD82JDdm_tGdixU2HLzavwtgjZoX0r2ewWQ5rIaAvAOEALw_wcB I like the Hitachi roofing nailer, and it's price squarely in the middle of the pack... https://www.lowes.com/pd/Hitachi-1-75-in-15-Degree-Roofing-Pneumatic-Nailer/1069793 1
mypasswordis Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 Probably going with architectural asphalt shingles, unless you think it's not a good idea. Do you recommend T style drip edge flashing over the standard ones? There's actually no gutter system, currently, though potentially I could put one in also.
HemiSam Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 That Porter Cable is a good recommendation. Beat mine for years with zero drama. HS
swt61 Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 I've only used the common drip edge. Architectural shingles are fine. 1
Voltron Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 Definitely go with something like the one on the left--huge difference in the final appearance. 1
n_maher Posted May 22, 2018 Report Posted May 22, 2018 ^^^ What Al said. Old-school 3-tabs look pretty terrible and aren't much (if any) cheaper anymore. 1
luvdunhill Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Posted May 28, 2018 The moment of truth - got in a rear panel for a super dense amplifier project, which houses two front ends that wires up to different output stages. Hopefully I will have time tomorrow to get the output stage bolted onto the heat sink to see if everything fits. It will be very close! Missing a few M3 screws and the switches, but those will be ordered next part run, but more or less everything is installed! Edit: not quite - there are pluggable buffers in front of the transformers that would block view of the relay - I need to add those in. Hopefully an update tomorrow when all fits! 12
luvdunhill Posted May 28, 2018 Author Report Posted May 28, 2018 Looks like I only have clearance issues with some interference from the rectifier heat sinks. Not bad for no fancy CAD time wasting 15
ironbut Posted May 28, 2018 Report Posted May 28, 2018 (edited) Tight! Mayberry never looked better Al. Edited May 28, 2018 by ironbut 1
Voltron Posted May 29, 2018 Report Posted May 29, 2018 Thanks Steve. I hope you are back on the porch before too long.
Voltron Posted June 13, 2018 Report Posted June 13, 2018 (edited) So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually agreed to give the boards to the contractor and Steve's bosses gave them to him. Claire has been asking for an outdoor chaise lounge so Steve donated the Ipe and his skills to the project. Here is what the boards look like without any work and then a progression from weathered (as received) to planed to sanded and then to oiled with Tried & True linseed oil with beeswax. We chose a design from Restoration Hardware as the basis for Claire's chaise and essentially winged it from there. Here is the original and the final product with a side table, finished just before our vacation but built to last for many years. There is no stain or pigment in the oil so the finished look truly blew us both away. Thanks Steve for supplying the wood *snicker* and the knowledge and know how to make this come together. Edited June 13, 2018 by Voltron 21 4
Grahame Posted June 13, 2018 Report Posted June 13, 2018 So you're saying Steve worked on and oiled Armistead Maupin's wood to create an exceptional finish? The man is an artist. Nice Chaise. 2 2
shellylh Posted June 13, 2018 Report Posted June 13, 2018 10 hours ago, Voltron said: So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually agreed to give the boards to the contractor and Steve's bosses gave them to him. Claire has been asking for an outdoor chaise lounge so Steve donated the Ipe and his skills to the project. Here is what the boards look like without any work and then a progression from weathered (as received) to planed to sanded and then to oiled with Tried & True linseed oil with beeswax. We chose a design from Restoration Hardware as the basis for Claire's chaise and essentially winged it from there. Here is the original and the final product with a side table, finished just before our vacation but built to last for many years. There is no stain or pigment in the oil so the finished look truly blew us both away. Thanks Steve for supplying the wood *snicker* and the knowledge and know how to make this come together. Wow!
justin Posted June 13, 2018 Report Posted June 13, 2018 great work..let's keep the wood restoration coming!
swt61 Posted June 14, 2018 Report Posted June 14, 2018 Uhm, thanks for all the praise, however it's aimed at the wrong person. While I was able to procure the wood, and played a part in making an actual plan from a picture, it was Al who did most of the woodworking on this project. He is a natural at this! His attention to detail and his ability to soak up knowledge surpass all expectations I had. Our little Lawyer man is growing up so fast! And I knew there were bound to be jokes about me and Armistead's wood. Glad to see G-Man is at the top of his game! 10
HemiSam Posted June 14, 2018 Report Posted June 14, 2018 Beautiful work, and one heck of an eye spotting the quality of the wood given the weathered state! HS
ironbut Posted June 14, 2018 Report Posted June 14, 2018 Lookin' good Al I read that it is a super hard wood (Tice-like?) that will eventually turn silver like it was before. I used to scrub and powerwash teak when it turned silver. Lots of elbow grease required but every 5-10 years (depends on exposure) it isn't so bad. You should be able to pick up cleaners just about anywhere.
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now