lkong Posted March 15, 2016 Report Posted March 15, 2016 (edited) Probably a really silly question: Can I use this amp as I/V stage for a DAC if integrated in one box? Edited March 15, 2016 by lkong
wink Posted March 15, 2016 Report Posted March 15, 2016 Why would you want an amp to do the job of a preamp?.
kevin gilmore Posted March 15, 2016 Author Report Posted March 15, 2016 actually this amp is a V to I stage.
spritzer Posted March 15, 2016 Report Posted March 15, 2016 Yeah, that is kinda the point of the whole thing.
wink Posted March 16, 2016 Report Posted March 16, 2016 So, we could run a thousand or more amps off it without loading down the output........
mdr30 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Posted May 3, 2016 Is the amp sensitive to pulling the headphone plug while playing?
congo5 Posted May 3, 2016 Report Posted May 3, 2016 (edited) 4 hours ago, mdr30 said: Is the amp sensitive to pulling the headphone plug while playing? not for me. you should check your socket with a meter and see if you can get it to short while inserting/removing plug Thanks for the correction! was thinking of the current feedback amp Edited May 4, 2016 by congo5
kevin gilmore Posted May 3, 2016 Author Report Posted May 3, 2016 Current output. Even a short to ground won't damage the amp, but will throw the servo off.
FallenAngel Posted May 31, 2016 Report Posted May 31, 2016 I'll be running this amp a little lower voltage than you guys, only at +/-20V, so is there any reason not to use the OP27 in it?
MLA Posted July 11, 2016 Report Posted July 11, 2016 So, I think I screwed up somewhere, but would like to ask advice before ripping things apart I built two of these with sligthly different gain settings. Both sound brilliant with HE500, but when trying out higher ohm cans on them (HD800, HD650), it's like the whole tone curve tilts a little bit, bass goes up, highs drop. It's the same effect on both amps, so my question is, did I systematically screw both up (created a filter effect somewhere due to erratic grounding perhaps?) or is this is to be expected for current drive of higher ohm cans?
kevin gilmore Posted July 11, 2016 Author Report Posted July 11, 2016 my guess is that the amp is non linear at high gain with high impedance headphones. probably voltage clipping
MLA Posted July 11, 2016 Report Posted July 11, 2016 (edited) Sounds reasonable! I'll put in a couple of pots for the gain and see what I can find out... Edited July 11, 2016 by MLA
FallenAngel Posted October 25, 2016 Report Posted October 25, 2016 (edited) Just completed this amp running from GRLV at +/- 20v, powered it up and see 5mV DC offset on one board and 2.7v on the other Where should I be looking to try to debug it? I measured voltages across a bunch of the resistors and they certainly don't look similar between the two boards. I double checked the output transistors and they look to be installed properly. The resistors also look to be the same on both boards. Edited October 25, 2016 by FallenAngel
FallenAngel Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 Update: So I just cleaned up the board and redid some solder joints, DC offset is now 2.8V... WTF?
Pars Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 Check all of the transistors. Include the SMT ones on the bottom. Something is out of place. Or blown.
FallenAngel Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 10 minutes ago, Pars said: Check all of the transistors. Include the SMT ones on the bottom. Something is out of place. Or blown. Double checked every transistor, all are correctly placed and none get warm. I don't know where to start replacing them and from experience, TO92 are a pain to remove and I've damaged boards before trying. Any suggestions on where to start or which are likeliest to fail?
Pars Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 TO92s are easier than hell to remove. Heat all 3 pins up at once. Ohm them out. Did you verify all transistors with the low offset, presumed working board? Sure you don't have a PNP or NPN swapped or wrong?
FallenAngel Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 8 minutes ago, Pars said: TO92s are easier than hell to remove. Heat all 3 pins up at once. Ohm them out. Did you verify all transistors with the low offset, presumed working board? Sure you don't have a PNP or NPN swapped or wrong? I have not found that to be the case and have a few boards in the garbage to show for it. I tested both board and one works perfectly. Unless I am really blind, a possible scenario, the transistor are correctly placed. It troubled me that redoing the soldering raised the offset a little, making me think something really did burn up before. I'm just uncertain of which to replace. I should have extras around, I think. Any suggestions of where to start? I think smc as those are still on my table. Thanks by the way.
congo5 Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 I can't tell from the pictures so gonna ask. are the inputs shorted or connected when testing? is there a 50R or so load connected to the outputs? what is the voltage on pin6 of servo, good one and bad? did you measure voltage base to emitter of all transistors? its all bipolar so they should all be around .5v that will tell you if they are working. and since the board is marked its easy and its low enough voltage to be safe. still be careful not to short any pins..... good luck, its probably not much wrong.
FallenAngel Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 22 minutes ago, congo5 said: I can't tell from the pictures so gonna ask. are the inputs shorted or connected when testing? is there a 50R or so load connected to the outputs? what is the voltage on pin6 of servo, good one and bad? did you measure voltage base to emitter of all transistors? its all bipolar so they should all be around .5v that will tell you if they are working. and since the board is marked its easy and its low enough voltage to be safe. still be careful not to short any pins..... good luck, its probably not much wrong. Inputs are not shorted, nothing connected. No load on putout while testing +9V good, -17V bad pin6 to ground on opamp Not yet measured voltage base/emitter I don't know what the .5v refers to I know it's marked and easy to populate which is why I'm surprised I messed up somewhere. Update: I replaced the 4 SMC transistors, no change.
FallenAngel Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 (edited) MAJOR UPDATE! I just realised the "bad" board had the V+ and V- flipped! I wired it correctly and was shocked to find out the following: "Good" board now has almost 1V DC offset "Bad" board now has about 17V DC offset Now I'm quite confused. Edited October 26, 2016 by FallenAngel
kevin gilmore Posted October 26, 2016 Author Report Posted October 26, 2016 flipping the power supply is likely to cause many bad parts. especially the opamp.
FallenAngel Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 1 hour ago, kevin gilmore said: flipping the power supply is likely to cause many bad parts. especially the opamp. Yeah, I kind of figured that. Not sure why the "good" board all of a sudden got offset issues though. I personally really hate having to fix boards with major issues so I'll probably rebuilds a new set while salvaging the parts that I could.
RudeWolf Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 Bin the opamp, sanity check all remaining silicon. I burned my Dynalo with wrong polarity and ended up swapping out all transistors. Really depends on how available the parts are.
Rossliew Posted October 26, 2016 Report Posted October 26, 2016 Will Birgir be building one or a couple of these and sell them off his site?
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