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Posted

I´m thinking about use a relé for cut the AC from IEC to toroid on my Carbon. This relé is connecting via Arduino at two LM35DT on the heatsinks. If the temperature is very high, Arduino send a signal to relé and this will cut the current for safety.

I´m not sure what kind of relé is the best opción. I´m thinking on a solid state relé but a friend of mine said that this not a good idea because this relé use a triac and can introduce noise on the current. What do you thing?

Posted
5 hours ago, jose said:

I´m thinking about use a relé for cut the AC from IEC to toroid on my Carbon. This relé is connecting via Arduino at two LM35DT on the heatsinks. If the temperature is very high, Arduino send a signal to relé and this will cut the current for safety.

I´m not sure what kind of relé is the best opción. I´m thinking on a solid state relé but a friend of mine said that this not a good idea because this relé use a triac and can introduce noise on the current. What do you thing?

I've tried B+ relay from this article, but haven't tried the AC relay:

http://www.audioxpress.com/article/arduino-based-tube-power-amplifier-controller/9883

The included C code got temp. sensing, so you can adapt it to your need.  I used Adafruit Pro Trinket, half price of the Arduino board and it uses the same IDE.   

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks guys. Yes I can use those options but on my Carbon, Arduino controls the input selector and the frontal lights too.

I was reading the Audioxpress article and it´s very interesting but I am not sure. What is a Optical Relay? references?

Thanks

Posted
Thanks guys. Yes I can use those options but on my Carbon, Arduino controls the input selector and the frontal lights too.
I was reading the Audioxpress article and it´s very interesting but I am not sure. What is a Optical Relay? references?
Thanks


It's just an optoisolated relay.
Posted

Just adding yet another carbon build to the thread (crappy phone pics). 400v supplies rather than 450v allowed the caps to be board mounted in my chassis (though I am having some of Kevin's off-board PCBs made for a possible future 450v version). 400v also has the added benefit of running (slightly) cooler than the 450v version. Added the GRLV supplies but don't have a non-GRLV version to compare. But this amp is a true winner. Every time I listen to it I am awe struck at how good it is, particularly when compared to the T2 - they both have that ability to fool you into not realizing how loud you have cranked up the volume.

 

 

 

WP_20161024_10_26_04_Pro.jpg

WP_20161024_10_39_45_Pro.jpg

  • Like 15
Posted

20mA and ~100deg on psu side and ~114deg on amp side - that is after about 4hours. The 450v version I built previously was closer to 130deg on the amp side.

I do find the servo to not be necessary though (even though it is populated here) - the amp is just that good at getting to the proper balance and offsets fairly quickly. With the servo, maybe it shaves a few minutes off the warm-up time.

  • 3 weeks later...

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