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Posted

Today I could dedicate time to amp.

It took me very little time regulate. The balance was 0~1 volt (derived a little between both values) and offset was 0~0,5volt (derived a little too). 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Fired up my Carbon last night.  Adjusted the current to 20mA but back down to 16mA at the moment as I'm afraid that my transformer can't stand it.  Being lazy, I utilize the power supply and chassis from my KGSSHV.  So I should consider it as an upgrade.  I'll buy a new transformer and adjust the current to 20mA later.  The amp is running at 450V.  Even at 16mA I can feel that it's running a lot hotter than my previous KGSSHV.  

The amp sounds wonderful.  Thanks Kevin for sharing this wonderful amp design.

 

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Edited by chinsettawong
  • Like 7
Posted

Indeed, a really nice upgrade!

I use old chassis for new boards. I even desolder components and move them to the new version/board. That way I keep number of amplifiers constant, an agreement with my partner.

  • Like 2
Posted

I put DIP switches on the jumpers.  Try one at a time to see what works best.  I used 'switch 2' now.  Pretty stable offset and balance voltages. 

  • Like 1
Posted

The servo works very well now.  I adjusted the output to around +13V from cold start, turned off,  and put the jumper of the opto on.  Turned the amp on, and the servo started to work immediately.  It's very nice and stable. 

Thank you everyone for your help.  :wub:

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

Great you found the opto servo working well. In my Grounded Grid I’ve omitted offset trimmer and its associated resistor and that works great. For time being I consider the opto servo as the preferred one.

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)
On 9 May 2016 at 11:15 PM, spritzer said:

Where did you read such bullshit? 

I read here and at the other place from owners, but here is an excerpt from KGs post today from HF:

 

 

Quote

 

A couple of people think that the carbon is a bit bright at 20ma, and have turned their units down to 18ma. This is

one way that the amplifier can be tuned.

 

 

 

I will be able to stop reading and try myself in testing as my Carbon is coming in 2 weeks. It could be a positive IMO. I can tune to an extent with my tubed DAC, so if the bias does affect the HF sound balance, it may help some with solid state DACs. At this level of SQ the tiny tweaks can be the icing on the cake. Getting excited now.

Edited by astrostar59
Posted
26 minutes ago, astrostar59 said:

I read here and at the other place from owners, but here is an excerpt from KGs post today from HF:

 

 

 

 

I will be able to stop reading and try myself in testing as my Carbon is coming in 2 weeks. It could be a positive IMO. I can tune to an extent with my tubed DAC, so if the bias does affect the HF sound balance, it may help some with solid state DACs. At this level of SQ the tiny tweaks can be the icing on the cake. Getting excited now.

an isolation transformer might be your Sancho Panza, before you set out on this Odyssey. Chances are, you might move a fair bit closer to him upstairs, getting a bit too excited by accident ...

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)
17 minutes ago, sorenb said:

an isolation transformer might be your Sancho Panza, before you set out on this Odyssey. Chances are, you might move a fair bit closer to him upstairs, getting a bit too excited by accident ...

Dunno. I use a PS Audio P10 for my system which regenerates the mains power and wave form. The mains in my house is quite dirty so it has a big effect. I was in the mains is mains camp before I heard the effect.

I also use a linear PS for my music server which also helped things. I guess all these things may help as elements outside of the amp design itself. The P10 was not cheap, but the fact it also helps with my speaker system is a bonus.

Edited by astrostar59
Posted (edited)

the psaudio is still referenced to safety ground. So its not going to protect you from line voltage induced death. A whack from 220V is still nasty.

the capacitors in the power supply will still be able to kill you. No question about that. So if you don't understand how to set the currents and then adjust the offset voltages, some extra reading/looking at the board pictures might be a good idea.

 

Edited by kevin gilmore
Posted
15 hours ago, kevin gilmore said:

the psaudio is still referenced to safety ground. So its not going to protect you from line voltage induced death. A whack from 220V is still nasty.

the capacitors in the power supply will still be able to kill you. No question about that. So if you don't understand how to set the currents and then adjust the offset voltages, some extra reading/looking at the board pictures might be a good idea.

 

Crossed wires, I use the PS Audio for cleaning the mains only, not adjusting the voltage in any of my amps as such. I think my Carbon will have an mA adjuster. Thanks for the head up on the lethal aspects, I was aware and folk need to take care.

Posted
2 hours ago, astrostar59 said:

Crossed wires, I use the PS Audio for cleaning the mains only, not adjusting the voltage in any of my amps as such. I think my Carbon will have an mA adjuster. Thanks for the head up on the lethal aspects, I was aware and folk need to take care.

No, you are not aware  - you probably be better off having someone with proper skills to do the adjustment. But you still need to make sure your builder choose resistor values that makes it possible to adjust for the range you want.

Posted
1 hour ago, sorenb said:

No, you are not aware  - you probably be better off having someone with proper skills to do the adjustment. But you still need to make sure your builder choose resistor values that makes it possible to adjust for the range you want.

Thanks sorenb, I will talk to him. I can test at his house and may end up setting it there at maybe 17mA or 18mA and leave it at that.

Posted

I've just recently gotten to where I can test the PSU boards, however there's something up with the +450V supply. I only get +14V out of it. I get 569V out of the bias line so I think I can rule out the bridge rectifiers not working. I suspect the steel screw for the cree fet may have shorted, so I've swapped it for a peek screw. No change in behavior though. Anything I should check out with a scope first before I try swapping out the cree? Excuse the blurry pic.

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