KGSSHV Carbon Build Thread

[JoaMat]

Try MKS2-.47/63/5T, almost same thing? different price.

Edited January 29, 2020 by JoaMat

[jamesmking]

Pars for the golden ref HV on both my blue hawaii builds and my current mini T2 build I used the  gerbers from the file kgsshvpssicfetdual2new This board does not have the cpc117n for the delayed start - but you can implement it via external relays. I made my own bom for it. Note you will need to change a couple of resistors if you dont want +-400V also if you are going golden reference dual LV you dont need the parts for the simple +-15V, the voltage regs,  this are marked on the bom as for low voltage section. Hope this helps. On the silkscreen the caps are 0.047uF 1KV not 0.47uF, So you might be looking at a different board from the golden ref HV I used.

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Edited January 29, 2020 by jamesmking

[jamesmking]

Pars, here is my reverse engineering of the kgsshvpssicfetdual2new I have added in red the extra parts for the delayed turn on but there are no pads present on the gerbers for them. As far as I can tell the dual hv boards stopped at version 1.7 just before the cpc117n was added. the individual "left" and ""right" boards went to version 1.8 - which included the cpc117n and the 600ohm resistor.

 

Edited January 29, 2020 by jamesmking

[simmconn]

I just finished building the KGSSHV Carbon and Golden reference PSUs, well, using the PCBs from AliExpress. The performance is superb. It registers 0.0006x% THD+N up to 583Vrms and the distortion profile is very well behaved (2nd order slightly higher than 3rd order). The noise floor is at 1.1mVrms wide-band without power-line frequency harmonics. I found that my comfortable listening level is around 10Vrms and would probably never need that kind of dynamic headroom. Is there a lower gain option or mod that can bring the noise down?

[JoaMat]

Congratulations to your successful build of the Carbon. The world needs more good amplifiers.

Do you mind post some images?

[simmconn]

I built the amp on a heat sink taken from an old Denon home theater receiver, and decided to try it out before investing more time and $$ on a 'real' enclosure. It just so happens that the heat sink has the exact length for two boards mounted side-by-side, and width to mount the transistors on both the PSU and amp boards. The big electrolytic caps are mounted on the opposite side of the PSU board to double as temporary mechanical support. You can see the green Soviet military style HV transformer. I got it a number of years ago on ebay when the international shipping wasn't that crazy. It's better suited for circuit requiring 400V or 350V B+, though.

[JoaMat]

Thanks for image. Indeed very creative built. No need  for fancy cabinet I’d say, unless you have children or cats. Maybe an IR module with the motorized potentiometer for remote convenience.

[simmconn]

Oh I'll definitely put these in a proper enclosure with volume control and input selection, etc. This is just temporary.

By the way, do you have any suggestions to reduce the gain? Increasing the NFB would certainly do it. I'm more looking for a way to reduce the open loop gain I guess.

[JoaMat]

Looking forward a glimpse of your final enclosure.

I’ve no suggestions regarding reducing the gain.  Maybe there are folks out there that have.

[Pars]

Stupid question time, but what is the purpose of the stacked holes for the HV part mounting? Not the best pic, but best I could find.

[mwl168]

if you are referring to the large filtering caps, those extra holes were provisioned for builders to use various brand of caps in the position including the boutique Mundorf caps IIRC. 

The extra holes to the side were there to help with mechanical security of the caps (if so equipped) as some builders choose to mount the boards vertically on the heatsinks. 

[Pars]

Thanks Michael. Actually, I was referring to the pairs of holes for the 10M90s I believe on the Carbon boards themselves (top of pic, past the two resistors).

Edited February 27, 2020 by Pars

[simmconn]

Are you talking about the partially overlapped double holes for the C2M1000170D? I guess non-plated, oblong holes would work better, but somehow the layout person got sloppy and slapped on two plated holes (pads).

[kevin gilmore]

if you are using a .5 inch heatsink bracket, you have to use the other hole because the part is too big.

 

[Pars]

Kinda what I was guessing. Thanks Kevin!


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[Pars]

A pair of Carbon boards complete other than JFETs. I used Soren's pre-adjustment method on the CCS's. They all came up at 15mA initially; adjusted them to 17mA for a start. I still need to clean the boards more. These are the .6G boards and appear to have a ground plane (haven't looked at the gerbers), so all resistors, etc. are up off the board. If any of you Stax mafia dudes see anything amiss, please let me know. I was careful building these...

Also, I got some pluggable connectors, Hirose DF5A (DF5A-5P-5DSA(35), DF5A-5S-5C) which are 500Vdc rated, and would fit just fine. They have one small nub or pin on the bottom, but it looks like you could either cut it off, or drill a small hole in the PCB for it.

[mwl168]

Just a caution for testing - this amp runs HOT! Unless you bias the output device way down, make sure you mount those angles on a proper heatsinks before you energize it.

17mA bias seems like a good starting point. I run mine around 20mA IIRC. 

[Pars]

Thanks Michael. Yes, I was going to get some heatsinks something like you used to bolt the angles to (as well as the PSU angles). And thanks for the tip awhile back about putting standoffs upside down for mounting the resistors, etc. to get them spaced off the board. Worked pretty well! They aren't perfect, but pretty good I think.

[jose]

Mine also runs with 20mA and I am very happy with the result ... but it is a stove, be careful.

 

 

[spritzer]

The undersized 175K resistors aren't a great idea so I'd have 1/2W units there. 

[Pars]

Those were what was on the BOM. I’ll get some 1/2W, though I think people have built from this BOM before? Is a 350V rated part sufficient?

Thanks!

 

 

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[gepardcv]

Vishay RN60D are the gold standard. I used them throughout. Possibly overkill. 🤷‍♂️

[mwl168]

On 3/3/2020 at 10:13 AM, Pars said:

Those were what was on the BOM. I’ll get some 1/2W, though I think people have built from this BOM before? Is a 350V rated part sufficient?

Thanks!

 

 

Chris: You need 1/2W for this position. There is significant voltage drop across these 2 175K resistors. You may have used an older version of the BOM. Check the first post on this thread where I had updated the BOM to use Vishay RN60 parts to replace the Xicon’s.

 

Edited March 4, 2020 by mwl168

[Pars]

I used KOA Speer 1/2W on everything I could. The 121R are Vishay/BC MRS25 (0.6W, 350V). I’ll either get some RN60 or Xicon 1/2W for the 174K.


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[cloudhead]

For those who might need LTSpice model for Cabon e.g. for debugging.

Red LED is just some generic.

Rename to .zip

 

kgsshv_carbon_spice.doc