purk Posted November 16, 2016 Report Posted November 16, 2016 Superb Soren! I bet it sounds even better!
mwl168 Posted November 16, 2016 Author Report Posted November 16, 2016 Beautiful build Soren. Congrats!
Pars Posted November 16, 2016 Report Posted November 16, 2016 I really like the finish on the case, whatever it is. Guts look like modushop, but the ano doesn't (or whatever it is).
sorenb Posted November 17, 2016 Report Posted November 17, 2016 Thanks to all for your very kind words about the build. The chassis is a standard Modushop Dissipante 2U/400mm. Customization also done by Modushop: Drilling/re-anodize the front plate and printing. @Pars: the re-anodizing seems to result in a more refined finish
Hippyskygod Posted November 18, 2016 Report Posted November 18, 2016 Really great look Soren! I've been trying to decide on style, yours long and low in the all black looks awesome!
eggil Posted November 18, 2016 Report Posted November 18, 2016 that is an elegant and clean design. Nice!
Hippyskygod Posted November 22, 2016 Report Posted November 22, 2016 I'm about to start my build and was wondering whether the BOM at the start of the thread is accurate? Would anyone who has had successful builds be willing to confirm the parts they used? I'm really keen to get going but the parts are as we all know expensive :-) I've modified my my SRM 1 mk2 to be differential (Spritzer told me how) and it's pretty damn good. I'm really excited to hear the Carbon.
gepardcv Posted November 22, 2016 Report Posted November 22, 2016 I remember going over mwl168's BOM after making my own, and it's accurate. I used different caps in a few places, and RN60D resistors everywhere that doesn't explicitly need something high-power. Other than that, you should be good to go with the information in this thread.
sorenb Posted November 22, 2016 Report Posted November 22, 2016 50 minutes ago, gepardcv said: I remember going over mwl168's BOM after making my own, and it's accurate. I used different caps in a few places, and RN60D resistors everywhere that doesn't explicitly need something high-power. Other than that, you should be good to go with the information in this thread. The information posted by @mwl168 are accurate; I've used several of his Mouser BOM's as a really nice starting point.
Hippyskygod Posted November 23, 2016 Report Posted November 23, 2016 That's great thanks for confirming I'll get started tonight :-)
mwl168 Posted November 24, 2016 Author Report Posted November 24, 2016 (edited) Finally finished casing my Carbon. Apologize for the quality of the photos, the lighting condition isn't ideal. I went a different route - have the amp and PSU in separate chassis and set up the PSU as an "universal" PSU which I plan to use for the Carbon, the KGSSHV, the Blue Hawaii and, in the hopefully near future, the Grounded Grid. I used two off-the-shelf Antek transformers. The secondaries for the HV and filament are on the same 300VA transformer. The toggle switch acts as my manual HV delay and switches the HV secondaries which also have thermistors in series. The 7-pin connector houses the +/- 400VDC, +/- 18VDC and Bias supply. The 4-pin connector houses two sets of 6.3vac filament supply, each set has a 0.15R/5W resistor in series to lower the filament supply to around 6vac to help preserve the EL34 tube life. The amp chassis is a Mini Dissipante 3U and the PSU is a Galaxy 3U. Both with all aluminum panels. Edited November 24, 2016 by mwl168 9
JoaMat Posted November 24, 2016 Report Posted November 24, 2016 Very nice indeed! And two boxes - that's the way it should be!
UFN Posted November 24, 2016 Report Posted November 24, 2016 Neat. And no volume control - I have been thinking about that as well //UFN
JoaMat Posted November 24, 2016 Report Posted November 24, 2016 Right, no volume control - also the way it should be.
nopants Posted November 24, 2016 Report Posted November 24, 2016 nice internal wiring, how hot does the psu case get?
GeorgeP Posted November 24, 2016 Report Posted November 24, 2016 (edited) Awesome work, Michael! But you might want to swap the power connectors on the psu to female ones for safety reasons in case it ends up in someone else's hands. And it looks like you might have both servos engaged? Edited November 24, 2016 by GeorgeP
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