Sealing and/or oiling butcher block counter tops

[Voltron]

This is an odd topic but I'm looking for quick answers. I am having some Ikea solid beech wood butcher block counter tops installed in the Mayberry kitchen. They suggest sanding, sealing and oiling but they do not really give a lot of specifics. They sell some linseed oil but not a sealer and I am not sure if a sealer is necessary or recommended for use on butcher block counter tops or what to use and still be safe for food handling on them. Anybody have ideas for specific products or general procedures to employ or avoid?

Edited July 16, 2014 by Voltron

[dsavitsk]

This is my favorite finish for wood. http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/

 

It is an oil that cures to a hard finish. You just sand and wipe it on once a day for a few days. I use it on my amps, but I also use it on butcher blocks, etc. It is totally safe and even smells kind of good.

[Voltron]

Thanks Doug, I will look for it.

[shellylh]

Thanks for the link Doug, we need to redo our dining room table.  I may use this. 

[Voltron]

This is my favorite finish for wood. http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/

 

It is an oil that cures to a hard finish. You just sand and wipe it on once a day for a few days. I use it on my amps, but I also use it on butcher blocks, etc. It is totally safe and even smells kind of good.

Doug, is there one of their products you like best?  I see Danish Oil, Varnish Oil and Original Wood Finish.  Thanks again

[dsavitsk]

I use the original wood finish. It has worked well on everything from maple to walnut to teak to cherry. It leaves the wood feeling like wood, not like it has a layer of plastic on it. And if it ever starts to wear, you can just put another layer on.

 

I'll add that over 7 or 8 years, I've managed to use about 1 quart, about half of which was spilled.

 

Consistency is like honey. Use an old cut up t-shirt and put a very thin layer on. Wait an hour, and rub it off. Repeat 24 hours later. For a kitchen surface, 2 or 3 layers is sufficient. If you want to build up a sheen, 6 or 7 is nicer. Then burnish with a very soft cloth or very fine steel wool.

[swt61]

Are those food safe Doug? I don't see anything stating so.

 

And for food safe finishes I agree with Reks' above opinion.

 

Anything labeled Salad Bowl Finish should be food safe (at least once cured).

 

http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2000752/9150/General-Finishes-Salad-Bowl-Finish-Pint.aspx?keyword=brandGeneral_Finishes_and_adwords_labelsOil_Based&refcode=10INGOPB&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=Cj0KEQjwxZieBRDegZuj9rzLt_ABEiQASqRd-t7SemVnwsYjQtd6q0sMeHSlGldjOvBcXwNQ2a_CvyEaAiuk8P8HAQ

Edited July 16, 2014 by swt61

[dsavitsk]

Yes. Bottom paragraph: http://www.triedandtruewoodfinish.com/environ.html

[Voltron]

Thanks for adding thoughts, Jacob and Dr. Wood.  I already ordered a quart of the stuff Doug recommended and it seems to be a solid option.  Linseed oil and beeswax seem dandy to me, and I can get a few layers in place right away and then add more to buff it up and make it more water resistant and easy to clean. 

[Augsburger]

Since this thread seems to have run it's course I am going to take a chance with this Teak question.

 

 Any recommendations for outdoor Teak furniture oil?  For some reason all the home supply and wood specialty stores around here only stock a "Teak Finish" product which is really some type of varnish which leaves the outdoor furniture looking like something that belongs in the Knott's Berry Farm amusement park.  I want the Teak furniture to look and feel like it originally looked when new not with any synthetic shiny layer.

[Pars]

Using the link Dr. Wood provided...

 

http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=teak

 

Maybe the Watco? I've never used this one, but did use a Watco linseed oil and liked it. Someone that is an expert should pipe up...

[Augsburger]

I used the Watco Teak Oil Finish once and was not happy with the result.  I would like Teak finish to look natural, thanks anyway.