joehpj Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 Thanks guys,I will fix the problem. I will report once the problem solved.
Peleus Posted October 6, 2015 Report Posted October 6, 2015 Hi~ Joehpj, I and my friend had noted your problem of KGST, and we found we should be in the same country Taiwan, right?If you did need any local help, please feel free to let me know. There is a discussion on the local forum, AA. I think you should know it. We all be there!Good luck!
joehpj Posted October 7, 2015 Report Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) update:I thought it was the 10M90S so I carefully cleaned up the flux and made sure those was isolated.Ran for just 3 seconds and -400V exploded too. so scary.I found the 8N80C was short between either of the three pin on both +-400V.So I assume both 8N80C were dead? Though I didn't desolder those, I believe those shouldn't be short if those were normal even on board.Maybe those 24V zener bought from the local store are the murderer? Or it's because I didn't use any thermal grease for the 8N80C?I thought those were directly contacting the cooler so I didn't use any thermal grease. Edited October 7, 2015 by joehpj
kevin gilmore Posted October 7, 2015 Author Report Posted October 7, 2015 if the 8n80c shorts either drain or source to gate, then the zeners are going to pop.the 24v zener is strictly to protect the 8n80c on power turnoff, does not do anything for power on.suggest you purchase known real parts from mouser8n80c needs thermal grease or thermal washer, but that does not have anything to do with the zeners blowing up.
spritzer Posted October 7, 2015 Report Posted October 7, 2015 Has to be the fets now that both channels are blown. I'm hesitant to use any part not sold by a proper distributor so no local shops even here in Iceland.
joehpj Posted October 7, 2015 Report Posted October 7, 2015 (edited) learned a lesson. The PCB says 12V for the zeners and those were what I've bought from mouser. Later I found in this topic 24V would be a better choice. Then I bought the 24V zeners from a local store. Wrong decision. I believe that's why the PSU were fine at first then blown after several times of running,Should I replace all active components in case of safety reason? Edited October 7, 2015 by joehpj
joehpj Posted October 7, 2015 Report Posted October 7, 2015 How about the 1N4007s? Those are a little bit hard to desolder.Anyway, thanks for replying. You guys are sooooo kind.
spritzer Posted October 8, 2015 Report Posted October 8, 2015 I doubt they would be damaged but do a quick diode test on them. If they measure fine then they should be fine.
dmkbox Posted October 26, 2015 Report Posted October 26, 2015 HI!I'm interesting to build this amp. Where is sourcing for kit or PCB's?
Pars Posted October 26, 2015 Report Posted October 26, 2015 Got a mirror? Look in it... there's your sourcing.Also, read your welcome PM.
dmkbox Posted October 26, 2015 Report Posted October 26, 2015 (edited) Got a mirror? Look in it... there's your sourcing.Also, read your welcome PM.Ha-ha. No any pcb or parts in my mirror. Only tired face.As well as no PM messages in my box. Edited October 26, 2015 by dmkbox
JimL Posted October 26, 2015 Report Posted October 26, 2015 No kit, if you want to get a PCB you'll have to get the board files from Dr. Gilmore's site, send them to a board maker and have them made yourself, unless you get in on a group buy. 1
valve5425 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) OK, my chassis is finished. (My homage to Steampunk.) Just DON'T remind me how long this has taken! A few minor tweeks, including tightening the legs up, then I can start soldering. Another 6 months maybe?? No point rushing these things, and, to be fair, I'm only after that longest build prize. @dmkbox No, this is not a kit! More pics at http://cubeupload.com/codes/32d8a5 Edited July 23, 2017 by valve5425 Update picture links 8
valve5425 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 I suspect that's what my wife thinks!
insanity Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 (edited) That's proper insanity!!! Actually, I am And this looks soooo cool. I really love it. Are the bent copper tubes for ventilation? And what about fingerprints on that copper? Only touch with white gloves? Edited November 1, 2015 by insanity
valve5425 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 Cheers. Yes the tubes are vents and the heatsinks will sit just below. You may have to wait a while, but I'll post more pics when it's all finished.
kevin gilmore Posted November 1, 2015 Author Report Posted November 1, 2015 amazing, what kind of wood?
valve5425 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 From a plank of elm I've had sitting around for the last 15 years.
Kerry Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 Absolutely gorgeous!What treatment did you use on the top copper?I love the piping on the heat sinks
valve5425 Posted November 1, 2015 Report Posted November 1, 2015 AAAgh! That top was a pain in the butt. It's 3mm copper sheet which has been polished, buffed and then waxed with Renaissance wax. Should last 12 months between waxing and the wood can take the wax as well. (The elm was oiled with Tung oil before waxing.) I did consider lacquer but apparently you can't get the depth of shine. However, you only need to look at the top and it scratches, so I'll see how it goes and may lacquer it at a later stage.The plan is for the top to unplug from the PCB's, and the heat vents and valve bases all unbolt, so it won't be as complicated as it seems to take it apart later.The piping is just 10mm copper plumbing elbows set into a brass block.
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