ang728 Posted January 6, 2017 Report Posted January 6, 2017 2 hours ago, rumina said: Not a Mini Dynalo but a small one. Finished my Dynalo today, thanks to this forum and the members the build was easy and free of trouble, thanks everyone. Was fun to put it in a small case and solve this puzzle. Also a big thanks to Kevin Gilmore for this design and sharing it with us. http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/gallery/showgallery.php/cat/2231 Thanks to sbelyo for the group buy of the pcbs. man..same thoughts here, but I failed squeezing GRLV in it,lol 4
rumina Posted January 6, 2017 Report Posted January 6, 2017 @pars thanks for the info, was puzzeld about the 3th rectifier and didn't take much time thinking of it, a bit of wiggling and it's out now. Something new learned about the grlv, used it the first time. That's a part i love about head-case, helpful people and always something new to learn. @ang728 look nice your amp, building this in a small case is like a 3d puzzel, part of the fun for me. 1
A_Zero Posted January 17, 2017 Report Posted January 17, 2017 Hi everyone! I also finished my build of Susy Dynalo! Still doing run-in of the amp but it already sounds really great even driving a HD800! Since the layout from Mr.Gilmore is a little bit too large and cannot fit into a 10cmx10cm pcb, I have to redraw the layout. But good thing is that an extra inductor was added to the power rail of input stage as well as the VAS to prevent distortion from output stage. Also the rails are surrounded by "guard rings", aimed to avoid EMI problems..... Sorry for the crude casing... just carved it out from kinda plastic flowerpot... Some detailed specs: Quiescent Current of Input: 1.2mA Output stage bias: 6.7mA per transistor rail voltage: 18.5V, tried 20V but it's too hot. Gain: Approx 3. Also some interesting results. The THAT340 was then replaced by hand-matched ksc1815/ksa992, beta deviation within 0.1% - Huge improvement in transparency and details! The power supply based on Jung's regulator, but an extra transistor was added after the error amplifier to lower the load seen by the Op-Amp, works well.
Sherwood Posted January 17, 2017 Report Posted January 17, 2017 That case was designed to sit in an oft-flooded basement.
kevin gilmore Posted January 17, 2017 Report Posted January 17, 2017 no no no, swimming pool, it floats 1
MLA Posted January 17, 2017 Report Posted January 17, 2017 1 hour ago, kevin gilmore said: no no no, swimming pool, it floats with reference to ground? 1
wink Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 Does it impart a liquid sonic presentation...?
Torpedo Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 Not really. It offers and electrifying performance when you're into the pool. 1
wink Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 In other words, it will send more than tingles down your spine......
A_Zero Posted January 18, 2017 Report Posted January 18, 2017 lol, indeed the "casing" was dug up from the basement. A water-resistant version... And the amp sounds a little bit too bright, so the compensation cap was added upto 15pF, much better now
Skooby Posted January 30, 2017 Report Posted January 30, 2017 Noob question to all. On Kerry's 1.4 Dynalo v1.4 SMD board, on the bottom side, there are a couple of masked points with silk marker "AOT" and "0". What are these, jumpers? Thanks for any pointer!
congo5 Posted January 30, 2017 Report Posted January 30, 2017 (edited) the 0 is ohms (used as jumper) R27,R45 on BOM LRC-LRZ1206LF-R000 think from schematic that AOT is a voltage adjustment I was hoping someone would ask... cause I'm not sure either Edited January 30, 2017 by congo5
Skooby Posted January 30, 2017 Report Posted January 30, 2017 Thanks many, I'm in the process of populating the board...will jump the 0-ohm!
Pars Posted January 30, 2017 Report Posted January 30, 2017 AOT is a resistor (R62) spot in parallel with R54 (10K), feeding the sense line on U3 (TPS7A3301RGWR?) to ground. Maybe used to tune V- to match V+? No value listed in the BOM for it. 1
Kerry Posted January 31, 2017 Report Posted January 31, 2017 23 hours ago, Pars said: AOT is a resistor (R62) spot in parallel with R54 (10K), feeding the sense line on U3 (TPS7A3301RGWR?) to ground. Maybe used to tune V- to match V+? No value listed in the BOM for it. Yes. AOT means Adjust On Test. It's not required but can be used to finesse the output voltage on the negative rail. 2
Skooby Posted January 31, 2017 Report Posted January 31, 2017 Thanks Kerry, for the clarification and providing us the board design. Any advice on the best way to solder the TI 7A4700? That thing's tiny, I ruined one board doing this already. I'm thinking melt some solder first on the pins and then put the chip on. I got a rework air gun, not sure it's the best way though.
congo5 Posted January 31, 2017 Report Posted January 31, 2017 20 minutes ago, Skooby said: solder the TI 7A4700 watch Louis Rossmann - YouTube I used a candle warmer to preheat the area. clean the pads liquid flux tin the pads clean reflux use hot air station solder with silver content helps with gold plating. 2
HemiSam Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 On 1/31/2017 at 11:30 AM, congo5 said: watch Louis Rossmann - YouTube I used a candle warmer to preheat the area. clean the pads liquid flux tin the pads clean reflux use hot air station solder with silver content helps with gold plating. I watched part of Rossmann's video soldering a chip on a Mac or the like...damn. Soldering free for all. That man doesn't play. LOL HS 1
congo5 Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 Yep, real world actual work not 5 takes and edited Thanks 1
HemiSam Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 and he definitely does not hold back on opinions...no inside voice...LOL Thanks for posting, congo. HS
Skooby Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 Any idea what brand/type of flux he's using? I bought MG no-clean flux but it's too thin and evaporates too quick (doesn't hold the smd piece still for alignment). Thanks!
HemiSam Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 I haven't a clue. He has a video where he describes all the parts he uses as I believe he receives many questions. It's over an hour long... HS
congo5 Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 under video description click "show more" ✖ TOOLS USED: ● Flux: http://bit.ly/2cYIx7t ● Solder paste: http://bit.ly/2epK1JE ● Soldering Iron: http://amzn.to/2cKkMyO ● Preferred tip: http://amzn.to/2d5MgPn ● Micro Soldering Pencil: http://amzn.to/2d5MWUP ● Micro soldering tip: http://amzn.to/2eYrF4a ● Hot Air station: http://amzn.to/2d5M7Lw ● Hot Air EXPENSIVE: http://amzn.to/2cYI6tY ● Tweezers: http://amzn.to/2d5NBpi ● Multimeter: http://amzn.to/2cYJY5T ● Multimeter Probes: http://amzn.to/2cKkvMh ● Fume Extractor: http://amzn.to/2d5MGoD ● Microscope: http://amzn.to/2iLrE16 ● Microscope LED light: http://amzn.to/2d5Mh5T ● Solder: http://amzn.to/2cKkxUp ● Crest CP500HT Ultrasonic cleaner: http://bit.ly/2iv3aci ● Branson EC cleaning fluid: http://amzn.to/2cKlBrp ● Jumper wire THIN: http://amzn.to/2eqF5T7 ● Jumper wire THICK: http://amzn.to/2eAJ5AU ● Nitrile gloves: http://amzn.to/2iUfumS Bench PSU: Agilent 6542 I'm using Kester. turn down the blow. hold with twezers mask off blow zone with aluminum foil? 2
HemiSam Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 Good stuff, congo. I like the look of the Hakko micro handpiece / pencil. Might have to spoil myself with one of those. HS
congo5 Posted February 5, 2017 Report Posted February 5, 2017 8 minutes ago, HemiSam said: Might have to spoil myself with one of those. Yes, want! don't have small pencil on Flux: its a big deal, what he has is way better, the kester boils off quick and leave's more residue but works I got the positive regulator on the first try, but took three times on the negative Had too much solder under and some side pins would not make contact. flux dries> solder won't stick> start over going slow and careful as I only have one board, that took half a day ;-) Really want the microscope + camera. 2
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