Newbert wants to build an amp..

[Trav]

Ok guys after plenty of surfing...i've decided "bang for buck" DIY is the way to go. Im looking for synergy with my T50RP. I got to hear Millet minimax that TomB brought at the 2010 meet and was very impressed. More research i find the Bottlehead Crack receiving accolades as well. Cut to the chase. Which and how intense would either build be for someone that walked by a soldering gun once? Trav

[n_maher]

1. If you try to use a soldering gun on either of them you'll probably end up really unhappy.

 

2. The Bottlehead is really best suited for high impedance headphones (>200ohm).  See Bottlehead's site for confirmation.

 

Those two points aside both are pretty easy to build and if you can read instructions you shouldn't have any trouble.  Of course, I'd recommend something different and suggest going with a Torpedo instead.  The full kit is still under $300 (maybe not with shipping, but close) and I'd like to think it'd pair nicely.  It may be even easier to build than the Minimax, I think it has fewer parts and doesn't have fiddly things like bias adjustments.  But you do have to watch out since it (and the Bottlehead actually) use high-voltage B+ supplies.  

[Trav]

Ty Nate.

[TomB]

Hey Trav!

 

1. Nate is correct.  No soldering guns around here.   I would recommend that you pick up a Hakko if you think you'll be into this for awhile.  The current "standard" is the Hakko FX-888 and is available at Frys for about $85.  It replaced the Hakko 936, which is what I've used for 5+ years.  So many clones were being made of the Hakko 936 (Aouye?) that I think they came out with the FX-888 as a defense.  Frys also has the plain-jane soldering irons made by Hakko - the Dash at 15W is a very good alternative at about $25.  The Hakko stuff I've mentioned is light-years ahead in quality compared to the typical Radio Shack-shit.  You know what they say about having good tools ...

 

Be sure you use 63-37 eutectic solder.  Radio Shack has some marketed as their "High-Tech SMD" solder, but it's pretty much the same stuff many of us use (Kester 44 63/37).

 

2. Can't respond to this one directly (without touting my own stuff) except to say that if you've modded the TR50's, you probably need lots of current.

[RudeWolf]

In my opinion the biggest advantage of both of these kits is that they come with cases. For me designing the case was the biggest challenge in my first build. I had to plot where all of the parts will sit and had to account whether they intersect or not. Then I did a CAD drawing for the CNC and so on. You could also get one of the AMB kits if casing doesn't scare you. Actually there are plenty of Chinese cases prebuilt with IEC inlets, RCA's, TRS and volume pots. These usually need very little work, assuming that everything fits in.

[Fitz]

Hey Trav!

 

1. Nate is correct.  No soldering guns around here.   I would recommend that you pick up a Hakko if you think you'll be into this for awhile.  The current "standard" is the Hakko FX-888 and is available at Frys for about $85.  It replaced the Hakko 936, which is what I've used for 5+ years.  So many clones were being made of the Hakko 936 (Aouye?) that I think they came out with the FX-888 as a defense.  Frys also has the plain-jane soldering irons made by Hakko - the Dash at 15W is a very good alternative at about $25.  The Hakko stuff I've mentioned is light-years ahead in quality compared to the typical Radio Shack-shit.  You know what they say about having good tools ...

 

Be sure you use 63-37 eutectic solder.  Radio Shack has some marketed as their "High-Tech SMD" solder, but it's pretty much the same stuff many of us use (Kester 44 63/37).

 

2. Can't respond to this one directly (without touting my own stuff) except to say that if you've modded the TR50's, you probably need lots of current.

 

For the record, I'm still using my original tip for the 936 after probably seven years or so?; that Hakko shit is nigh indestructible. I've accidentally left it on for days at a time and it got a fierce oxidation layer, but after dipping it in flux a few times it's back to being like new.

Edited January 28, 2013 by Fitz

[n_maher]

2. Can't respond to this one directly (without touting my own stuff) except to say that if you've modded the TR50's, you probably need lots of current.

 

Tom, this is Headcase, no one is going to care if you recommend the Max or the Torpedo over some other DIY kit.  We all know who you are and what you do, no need to be cagey.   I'm guessing given your reply that you don't agree with my recommendation so please share your thoughts on the subject. 

 

And to echo what RudeWolf said casework is difficult if you care what something looks like.  I often used to say that stuffing the boards was less than half the work required to build an amp and I stand by that.  Even when using a service like FPE you still have to do all the layout work to make sure that stuff is going to fit.  Tom/Beezar have taken all of the worry out of that part of the equation and he doesn't charge nearly enough for what he provides. 

[deepak]

IMO the FX-888 (I bought mine from Frys) isn't as good as the genuine 936 (my clone 936 works fine now that the heating element fits. The Pace beats them all). It takes longer to heat up and even with a little fan blowing nearing the tip would cool down too quickly.

[Pars]

I would agree with the recommendations, both amp-wise and tool wise. My Hakko 936 is still going on its original tips. The ratshack tips ruin themselves

 

As for amps, my brother has one of the beta torpedos that I built for him and uses it with his T50RPs, as well as AKG K501s and what's the Russian phone, Fischer Audio or something like that? It does fine with all of them.

I personally prefer my Dynalo with my T50RPs, but that is probably outside the scope of your build capabilities at this point, and part sourcing would be painful.

[nikongod]

I'm a fan of Weller irons, but I don't really know the differences between the brands. In any case, buying quality tools is never a bad idea. If you do this stuff for a living you will wear out or break cheap tools too fast. If you do this stuff for fun cheap tools are not as much fun to use. Simple. 

[Trav]

Many thanks for the input guys! Trav

[RudeWolf]

Actually getting a Dynalo together ain't that hard. I know that fetaudio.com sells matched input jfets and everything else is pretty easy to get. PSU can be had as a kit from glassjar. Casing is what I found to be the most of a challenge, but as I said- it is possible to find premade Chinese headphone amp cases on ebay. After that it's just a matter of drilling a few holes for the pcb's. It was my first DIY project and it came together pretty well. As long as you don't mix up the polarity on the power supply...

 

From all of the amps mentioned here it might be the best for current hungry cans. Here's mine for inspiration-

 

P.S. If you manage to find a Dynalo pcb, or two drop me a line! I'm pretty sure that I can squeeze in a Dynamid in there!

Edited January 28, 2013 by RudeWolf

[TomB]

Tom, this is Headcase, no one is going to care if you recommend the Max or the Torpedo over some other DIY kit.  We all know who you are and what you do, no need to be cagey.   I'm guessing given your reply that you don't agree with my recommendation so please share your thoughts on the subject. 

 

And to echo what RudeWolf said casework is difficult if you care what something looks like.  I often used to say that stuffing the boards was less than half the work required to build an amp and I stand by that.  Even when using a service like FPE you still have to do all the layout work to make sure that stuff is going to fit.  Tom/Beezar have taken all of the worry out of that part of the equation and he doesn't charge nearly enough for what he provides. 

Yes, I didn't agree with it initially, maybe that's why I was being cagey.  I'm relieved to hear you state the ground rules, though.

 

I sold my TR-50's to smeggy about a year ago, so I can't try them directly anymore, but memories of trying some of Colin's modded Fostex's seemed to be that they required a bunch more power once modded. I think Doug once quoted that the Torpedo can output a bit more than 250mW. Whereas, many people with orthos recommend stuff in the whole watts.

 

That said, I've since changed my mind.  Doug's Zener tweak seems to have changed the characteristics of the Torpedo for the better (besides reducing the hum a bit).  I would've said it didn't do so well with high-current headphones such as the K701, but I recently tried it out and it sounded pretty dang good with K701's.  That's the closest thing I have right now to an ortho load.

 

Your assessment of the build differences between the MiniMAX and Torpedo are dead on (your earlier post).

Edited February 3, 2013 by TomB

[Trav]

Pretty sure there's a torpedo in my immediate future...