eggil Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 (edited) Congratulations! Edited July 30, 2014 by eggil
niner Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 very nice job. you are ready to do the T2. Indeed I'm ready. T2 boards are fully stuffed. I'm waiting for the chassis from Tran.
niner Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 Thank you guys for the encouragement. I left my SD card at home, but I have a few inside shot of the amp. I used good quality components: Alps RK50 pot, Takman REY resistors, Solen FEP Teflon caps in the signal path, WIMA bypass caps, Nichicon Audio caps, Teflon tube sockets. I made PCBs for the 300V power supply and front-end DC heater. Transformers are from Sumr. Chassis are ordered from eBay. 1
spritzer Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 As a fan of cramped builds I like that one.
luvdunhill Posted July 30, 2014 Report Posted July 30, 2014 niner: its always useful to learn to read a schematic. Sometimes there are things on a schematic that aren't translated to PCB artwork that are useful to know. You need to remove two capacitors on your T2 build, check the schematic for more info.
niner Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 niner: its always useful to learn to read a schematic. Sometimes there are things on a schematic that aren't translated to PCB artwork that are useful to know. You need to remove two capacitors on your T2 build, check the schematic for more info. hi luvdunhill, thank you for the suggestion. which cap I need to remove? if you mean C12 or C13, then yes, I knew I populated both of them. I was stuffing the board late at night, and didn't realize I put both of them on until I soldered them down. I should remove them before I forget about it. Thanks anyway!
luvdunhill Posted July 31, 2014 Report Posted July 31, 2014 Yup. Plenty of builds in the T2 thread where both are populated, so glad you caught it
eggil Posted August 5, 2014 Report Posted August 5, 2014 This is what I've done to the PSU. Temperature is staying in the 50 Celsius so far. Cheap heatsink amplifier case from ebay.
Victor Chew Posted August 5, 2014 Report Posted August 5, 2014 (edited) What is the temperature at the "L" bracket holding the 8N80C? Edited August 5, 2014 by Victor Chew
eggil Posted August 5, 2014 Report Posted August 5, 2014 After 40 minutes, about 40+ Celsius, but have not connected the amp yet.
niner Posted August 6, 2014 Report Posted August 6, 2014 I have access to an Audio Precision analyzer, but I have never measure an amp for electrostatic device. Do I need a dummy load?
kevin gilmore Posted August 6, 2014 Author Report Posted August 6, 2014 you need a 120pf dummy load, and a minimum of a 10x high impedance attenuator otherwise one accident and you blow the crap out of the AP
niner Posted August 6, 2014 Report Posted August 6, 2014 So will a 100pF 1KV cap across the + & - output do it? Is 1M high enough? With a balanced attenuator like this (but with high impedance)?
kevin gilmore Posted August 7, 2014 Author Report Posted August 7, 2014 yep 10:1 or 100:1 with an impedance of R1 = 500K or more
eggil Posted August 9, 2014 Report Posted August 9, 2014 (edited) Temperature with the offboard external heatsinks is 56 degrees Celsius at the contact point with the transistors, about 42 degrees in the heatsink fins. Very pleased with the results. It reached 90 plus Celsius with the small onboard heat sinks. I have not cased it yet (working on the PSU first). The sound is to my ears moar better than the KGSSHV. Have not compared it side by side with the BHSE, but I bet they are pretty similar. Simply Stunning! Edited August 9, 2014 by eggil 1
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