jboehle Posted April 13, 2014 Report Posted April 13, 2014 Powered up the amp for the first time last night! After adjusting the trimmers, without the op-amps in, I had ~55mV offset on channel 2 and ~5mV offset on channel 1. With the op-amps in, it drops to ~1mV on channel 2 and ~0.1mV on channel 1. I have a few questions. 1) Are there any other "first power on" checks I should do before hooking up a source and headphones? 2) The TO-3 heatsinks in the PSU got up to ~60C, and the PSU is currently uncased. What are the max heatsink temps for the PSU & amp before bad stuff starts happening? I am using the 2 inch heatsinks (the ones with the single hole, from Newark) in the amp. Just wanted to know what temps are okay so I can double check once I get it cased up. Now to get it cased up. Unfortunately I still haven't figured out I want the final casing to be, but I have a 16x16x4 Par-Metal case I am going to put both the PSU & amp into for now. 3) How should I do the grounding when putting everything into one case? AC safety ground tied to enclosure Signal input ground tied to enclosure through ground loop breaker (0.1uF X/Y-rated cap in parallel with 10 ohm 5W resistor)? Input RCA jacks isolated from enclosure Volume pot tied to enclosure? Output jack isolated from enclosure Output ground connected only to output jack, never connected to enclosure Does the 0V line from the PSU just float, or is it tied to the enclosure through a ground loop breaker? If not floating, can 0V line from PSU and input signal ground be tied to enclosure through the same ground loop breaker? Should output ground on the output jack be tied to the output ground on the amp board, or go directly back to the 0V line from the PSU?
GrindingThud Posted April 13, 2014 Report Posted April 13, 2014 (edited) I think fishski13 had some links earlier to photos of a single chassis build he did....could see a lot of the wiring.http://s23.photobucket.com/user/fishski13/media/012_zpsdfd46a29.jpg.html I can't believe you're not listening to it yet with just alligator clips. AC safety ground tied to enclosure - yepSignal input ground tied to enclosure through ground loop breaker (0.1uF X/Y-rated cap in parallel with 10 ohm 5W resistor)? - I floated mineInput RCA jacks isolated from enclosure - yepVolume pot tied to enclosure? - only by the mounting shaft on my ALPSOutput jack isolated from enclosure - yepOutput ground connected only to output jack, never connected to enclosure - yepDoes the 0V line from the PSU just float, or is it tied to the enclosure through a ground loop breaker? If not floating, can 0V line from PSU and input signal ground be tied to enclosure through the same ground loop breaker? - mine made noise when floatedShould output ground on the output jack be tied to the output ground on the amp board, or go directly back to the 0V line from the PSU? - I used the amp board, I've seen the other way like in the beta22...I think fishski13 did it that way. Edited April 13, 2014 by GrindingThud
Remolon Posted April 14, 2014 Report Posted April 14, 2014 (edited) I am making some simulations of the KSA-5. The maximum output voltage without clipping obtained is a little less than 20Vpp, that is 6W on a 8 Ohm load, and I guess that, with the two pair of mje15030/15031,the amplifier can provide enough current to move (to drive, is better) a efficient loudspeaker. If the load is the 300Ohm of a Sennheiser headphones pair, and adjusting the bias, the output voltage can reach 22.5Vpp, providing a maximum of 210mW to each phone. Is that correct? Edited April 15, 2014 by Remolon
kevin gilmore Posted April 14, 2014 Author Report Posted April 14, 2014 5 watts rms into 8 ohms is the spec.
jboehle Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 Latest status. Getting there, slowly but surely.
Remolon Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 The main question is for the response to the headphones. I was considering to built a RSA-5 but, if the results of the simulation are correct, I do not see any advantage of the KSA-5 over a well constructed Dynalo, with a good PSU for each channel of +/-18VDC and a XLR-4 output with separate ground from the respective PSU, able to provide a excellent response and only a little less power
jose Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 A simulation is just this.. a simulation. I don´t discuss that a "full Dynalo" exceeds to Krell but you should listen this amp.
nopants Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 The real question is why hasn't anyone made a balanced version yet
jose Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 Good question. I only wanted clone the original... I didn't think on a balanced version
Remolon Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 @joseIt is clear from my post that I have not listen to a KSA-5 but, in any case, I guess that we are talking about different Dynalo. I think that your reference is the one you built with the PCB I gave you at the beginning, when I started the project, and mine is from one a little more evolved, with the same flat response but more powerful, a darker background, more transparent and with a better response to the transients.There is a very simple solution: I can send my Dynalo to the Island, you listen to both, my Dynalo and your KSA-5, an later you send both to the Peninsula, I listen to both for a while and return yours KSA. In this way we can talk having a common reference.
jose Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 Hi Remolon. Thanks for your offer. In this moment I´m waiting for a good box for my Krell. When I finish it, I will send you a MP. It's different EMO. You're speaking about of a highly evolved Dynalo (your current development) and the Krell is disadvantaged. Under the same conditions, SE input/output, single PSU, etc.. Does dynalo is superior? My advice is If you can get one, don´t hesitate.
kevin gilmore Posted April 15, 2014 Author Report Posted April 15, 2014 The real question is why hasn't anyone made a balanced version yet really, is that so... balanced version more than sufficient to fry your ears on he6
Zashoomin Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 The real question is why hasn't anyone made a balanced version yet I personally think that it is because the PCB for the amp boards are so big and a bit more expenisve than the average board to stuff. I mean they aren't that big but the way they are, it would make for a very easy one chassis build or simple small 2 chassis build. also a bit part i think is that the original amp only was ever single ended.
GrindingThud Posted April 15, 2014 Report Posted April 15, 2014 I'd push the rails to +/- 35 before going balanced. If a pair ever showed up at a meet we could bridge them.
kevin gilmore Posted April 16, 2014 Author Report Posted April 16, 2014 have to use a different opamp, and probably have to adjust a few resistors. probably can get away with +/-30 but that is it.
jboehle Posted April 17, 2014 Report Posted April 17, 2014 Got everything wired up in the case, powered up, was doing some final checks with my meter. Thought I'd check the V+/- voltage at the op-amps one last time. Fudged my test lead and bridged pin 3 & 4 (+In, V-) on one of the op-amps. I was using OPA227P. Now that channel that used to be at ~0.1mV DC offset, is anywhere from 7-12mV DC offset. So, other than the op-amp, did I ruin anything else? Without the op-amp, the channel still measures ~5mV DC offset, which is what it measured before I did this.
jboehle Posted April 18, 2014 Report Posted April 18, 2014 So, I put the op-amp from the other channel into the channel where I had shorted +In & V- last night, got the same results, 7-12mV DC offset after warming up, whereas I used to get ~0.1mV DC offset on that channel before I shorted those pins together. So, I guess I fried something else in that channel? What should I look at first? Any test points I can check to give some ideas?
DefQon Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 I think you fried just the shorted opamp, I would swap the good opamp into the shorted socket and measure the offset if it is drifting between 7-12mV as you're stating with the shorted opamp.
jboehle Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 Well I guess it would help if I was using opamps rated for the voltage they are seeing. Next time I need to read the spec sheets a little more carefully. The OPA227P is only rated for +/-18V. Who knows if that is causing an issue as well or not. I have some OPA445AU but ran out of SOIC to DIP converters, so I won't be able to do anything more with this until next week....sigh.
DefQon Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 I feel your pain when you run out of parts you need for building and troubleshooting in case you damage stuff, I blew up 2 500v coupling caps accidentally shorting them with the wrong polarity in a 300B amp I was working on the other day 3 in the morning with half a litre of vodka in my system, good thing the house had a safety switch.
jboehle Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 I feel your pain when you run out of parts you need for building and troubleshooting in case you damage stuff, I blew up 2 500v coupling caps accidentally shorting them with the wrong polarity in a 300B amp I was working on the other day 3 in the morning with half a litre of vodka in my system, good thing the house had a safety switch. Holy crap, I bet that was scary!
DefQon Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 (edited) Kind of use to it now, not the first time I've escaped near death. I remember enthusiastically looking at the hot iron wires in my toaster while it was on 10-12 years ago and thought to myself, what would happen if I poked it with a full stainless steel butter knife (the type with no insulated handle), suffice to say I got zapped, burnt the toaster and tripped the house safe switch. My toast turned out fine though. Guess the next time I do something with electronics the safety switch won't be triggered. Edited April 19, 2014 by DefQon
livewire Posted April 19, 2014 Report Posted April 19, 2014 Darwin has a special award waiting just for you! BTW - what's your favorite booze to use while you are shorting out amps?
DefQon Posted April 20, 2014 Report Posted April 20, 2014 Darwin has a special award waiting just for you! BTW - what's your favorite booze to use while you are shorting out amps? Anything that gets me pissed except for wine.
jboehle Posted April 22, 2014 Report Posted April 22, 2014 So, got the Brown Dog adapters in today for the OPA445AU chips I have. In channel 2 of the amp (the one I did not short out the opamp on), I get 57mV DC offset w/o the OPA445, and 0.3mV DC offset with the opamp installed. Does that seem reasonable? Does the servo usually do that well? In channel 1 of the amp (the one I did short out the opamp on), I get 5.9mV DC offset w/o the OPA445. But I get 64mV DC offset with the opamp installed. That doesn't seem right, does it? That the DC offset would go UP 10x with the opamp installed? Any ideas what else I may have damaged in channel 1? Should I replace the output transistors? Or is this expected behavior when the channel starts with a low DC offset to begin with? I feel like I'm so close to getting this working!
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