HemiSam Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 The tips of the pins on the amphenol connectors have a little hole in them. Strip the wire, stick it through the hole, and solder that way. Do not to get any solder on the sides of the pins. Just the tip. That seems to be the most logical approach, but forgive a dumb ass question...I suck at this stuff. Where do I place the tip of the iron...normally I'd simply heat up the wire from the Koss but I'll want to limit the exposed wire with five lines in failry tight grouping. So is there some smarter way to get the solder in there....I don't think it'll be too bright to heat up the plug nipples or the solder directly....that won't last long... I generally bugger-up delicate stuff like this for being impatient so I'd like to avoid that if possible. Thanks. HS
Mr.Sneis Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 I've had luck sticking the tip of the iron into the hole of the tip of the plug then fitting the bare wire on the opposite side and feeding solder in from the wire end as well. It should fill the with solder and then you can remove the tip Better question is what are you going to do for strain relief.
HemiSam Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 I've had luck sticking the tip of the iron into the hole of the tip of the plug then fitting the bare wire on the opposite side and feeding solder in from the wire end as well. It should fill the with solder and then you can remove the tip Better question is what are you going to do for strain relief. My solder tips are too big....LOL. Seriously, I am going to need the right tools for the job so I'll dust off a new soldering station I purchased a while back and see what I have. That's a good pointer...thanks! You raise a great point about stress relief which, surprisingly, I had thought about. I don't have a great answer...I was planning on using different sizes of heat shrink. So a small piece would cover any exposed wires at the butt of the plug. A larger piece would go over it and hopefully fit over the Koss cable or at least to the very edge (I may need to leave some of the internal sheathing on the individual wires aft the end of the rectangular mother cable...I'm sure my nomenclature is shite...sorry). Finally, a big arse piece of heat shrink for the crap metal knock-off Stax plug down to the Koss cable. So layering if you will. I figure that will be pretty damn stiff and while not great, hopefully it will provide some protection. In the end, if I buger this up good which is a distinct possibility, I buy one of these pricey cables from Fong audio or Apuresound (which may have a bad rep...dunno). http://www.amazon.com/Koss-ESP-950-5-pin-Adapter-Cable/dp/B00LCKWG40 http://apuresound.com/images/cables/electrostatic/950/index2.html HS
nikongod Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 I dont know if its too late, or if you saw, but cut the EXTENSION cable and leave the cable on the headphones stock. Gives you more chances to re-fix the cable, and if they ever get "the squeal" you can still send them back to Koss.
grawk Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 You can send the 950s back without a cable at all.
nikongod Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 You can send the 950s back without a cable at all. good to know.
HemiSam Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 I dont know if its too late, or if you saw, but cut the EXTENSION cable and leave the cable on the headphones stock. Gives you more chances to re-fix the cable, and if they ever get "the squeal" you can still send them back to Koss. Absolutely. That extension cable wasn't likely to be of much use to me and if I ever decide to sell (say I get woowed by a sexy pair of Stax...), it should be easier. I have to say, I've been more impressed with the Koss ESP's than I expected. I like a somewhat warm signature (e.g. the HD 650 grew on me once I adjusted to them) and was a bit worried the bass would be ridiculously thin on the Koss's. It's not all that bad, and the mids and highs are superb for me....I don't do siblance well. I think some KGST lovin' might just be the ticket. That or a SR 007. When will it end... HS
grawk Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 Esp950 isn't a headphone Id describe as thin. My favorite rig ever was my esp950/blue Hawaii
HemiSam Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 Esp950 isn't a headphone Id describe as thin. My favorite rig ever was my esp950/blue Hawaii Yum... With some luck I will get to test drive a BH one of these days at a meet or the like. I bet that 950 was happy as a clam with all that attention. HS
nopants Posted January 9, 2015 Report Posted January 9, 2015 Kevin has some teflon male jacks that he's been working on if his pictures are to be believed. You might want to try dropping him a line.
n3rdling Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 I bet most people have no idea how good the ESP-950s really are since they come bundled starving for current. They sound so much better from a legit amp. Don't order from apuresound, they scam but still seemingly take orders. Darin is cool.
catscratch Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 I got a Koss to Stax adapter from Darin. I can't say if it works because my ESP950 doesn't. But dealing with him was totally painless. Hopefully I (or Koss rather) will get the bloody things fixed soon.
spritzer Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 The teflon male plug is certainly real even though they were not cheap. The first prototype is on my HE90: Neutrik XLR male pins are perfect for this role. Not sure if Kevin has any more as only a few of these were made.
chinsettawong Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 I make a few using ABS plastic printed by my 3D printer. They work fine. 1
HemiSam Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 Those look fantastic! I have a feeling mine will be a bit more on the redneck side.... Kevin - I don't know that I can do your connector justice with my lack of skills but I will reach out via PM assuming that is OK. Big thanks to the HeadCase crew for being tolerant of my rook questions...much appreciated! I can't wait to plug the ESP-950's into the KGST HS
dcpoor Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 I need to get a stax male plug too for a future ESP950 recable/adapter. :~
dcpoor Posted January 10, 2015 Report Posted January 10, 2015 (edited) Yeah, true. I'm heavily leaning towards using the ESP950 extension cord to make an adapter for the extra flexibility. Edited January 10, 2015 by dcpoor
HemiSam Posted January 11, 2015 Report Posted January 11, 2015 The recable isn't a bad idea if you're going to keep them forever. If you ever think you might punt, though, I think it'll be easier to sell them with the E90 amp. Hell...for what I paid new, shipped for the ESP's and the amp, it was a hell of a deal. Good intro to e-stats I think. If they're half of what I hope with the KGST, I'm gonna be smilin'.... HS
HemiSam Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 I'm in high cotton thanks to Kevin.... Now I have proper kit to FUBAR. HS
nopants Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 looking good, heatshrink that shit for style points 1
HemiSam Posted January 15, 2015 Report Posted January 15, 2015 Thanks, np. I'll definitely heatshrink the hell out of that bad boy. The soldering this weekend will be the Triple Lindy attempt... HS
Duggeh Posted January 16, 2015 Report Posted January 16, 2015 (edited) Seems the apt place to put this. Some Norwegians are offloading some closed back ESP-900s on the eBay. $300 a pop.http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Koss-ESP900-medical-certified-ESP950-Headband-Headphones-Black-/251793784174?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3aa0143d6e&autorefresh=true Are they any good? They make them for use with MRI machines nearby which I suspect means, just slap a closed back on the stock headphone and have done. Edited January 16, 2015 by Duggeh
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