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HC Bike/Cycling Thread


boomana

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Marked a line on the cement and another line on the front tire with a piece of chalk, got on the bike, lined up the two lines and rolled forward one revolution and made another chalk mark on the cement.

Measured the distance between the chalk marks and then plugged that into the cateye.

(the size chart in the cateye manual was off by 12mm)

 

Google maps said today's route was 32.4 miles, the cateye said 32.3 miles.

Close enough. :D

Edited by Mister X
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We were just talking about that on the weekend as there is a pair of trouble dogs on my preferred route. We ended up modifying the route to avoid them this time around. Unfortunately one of the times I rode past the place (the dogs have charged every time) the owner was out with the dogs and seemed to be fully supportive of their actually nipping my cycling shoe on so I'm guessing that if I pepper sprayed the dogs I'd end up with a crazy person in a car with a gun chasing me....

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Ended up being unable to remove the old bottom bracket, with everything from wd40, liquid wrench, pure acetone, brake cleaner, a 25" breaker bar, heatgun on the BB until everything was smoking, and the LBS.  Options I can see at this point are:

 

  • switch everything back to the Y-foil frame, which has seen a few crashes (not sure if this increases risk of a future catastrophic failure while I am riding it), but would only need a new stem to get normal handlebars and shifters on (has time trial bars now, shifters at the end of the aerobar),
  • look for an inexpensive used frame, maybe try steel or something, and swap all the components over,
  • just forget about what I have now and buy new 

or trade bikes with Brent, because a bike without any pedals is probably easier to walk next to.

 

Any thoughts?

Edited by cetoole
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Ended up being unable to remove the old bottom bracket, with everything from wd40, liquid wrench, pure acetone, brake cleaner, a 25" breaker bar, heatgun on the BB until everything was smoking, and the LBS.  Options I can see at this point are:

 

  • switch everything back to the Y-foil frame, which has seen a few crashes (not sure if this increases risk of a future catastrophic failure while I am riding it), but would only need a new stem to get normal handlebars and shifters on (has time trial bars now, shifters at the end of the aerobar),
  • look for an inexpensive used frame, maybe try steel or something, and swap all the components over,
  • just forget about what I have now and buy new 

or trade bikes with Brent, because a bike without any pedals is probably easier to walk next to.

 

Any thoughts?

 

Is the BB reverse threaded?

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I would think the LBS would know that. Are they somewhat versed in vintage? The drive side cup on English (ISO) threading is left hand thread, and this bike most certainly has that threading. Post 4761 confirms that (1.370 x 24tpi is english or ISO, sometimes marked 1.375 x 24tpi).

 

Remind me again, you were trying to get this out of the Cannondale in order to put different components on the frame? Kroil or Freeze Off would be something to try. If the cup is the type that has wrench flats on it and you have a bench mounted vise with sharp jaws, you can clamp the cup in the vise and turn the frame.

 

Do you have any of the bottom bracket apart? Down to just the fixed cup still in the frame? Do you need the cup?

 

EDIT: You could also try Sheldon's trick tool at the bottom of this. If you could get someone to try it with an impact wrench, might be even better:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Edited by Pars
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