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Posted

I would think the LBS would know that. Are they somewhat versed in vintage? The drive side cup on English (ISO) threading is left hand thread, and this bike most certainly has that threading. Post 4761 confirms that (1.370 x 24tpi is english or ISO, sometimes marked 1.375 x 24tpi).

 

Remind me again, you were trying to get this out of the Cannondale in order to put different components on the frame? Kroil or Freeze Off would be something to try. If the cup is the type that has wrench flats on it and you have a bench mounted vise with sharp jaws, you can clamp the cup in the vise and turn the frame.

 

Do you have any of the bottom bracket apart? Down to just the fixed cup still in the frame? Do you need the cup?

 

EDIT: You could also try Sheldon's trick tool at the bottom of this. If you could get someone to try it with an impact wrench, might be even better:

http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/bbcups.html

Yeah, trying to get the bottom bracket off to replace it, the current one grinds a bit and the threading for one of the pedals is gone.  Everything but the fixed cup is off, and I don't need it anymore.

 

The Freeze Off looks interesting, 

Posted

Sheldon's bolt thing supposedly works very well. Remember that that cup is LH thread, so CW to loosen. If it were std. threads, you would need a LH bolt and nut to do Sheldon's thing. Get a grade 8 bolt and nut (or whatever he recommends in the link I had attached.

Posted

I just swapped a 9 speed cassette onto a better 26" wheel I picked up, so I think the red white and blue fsr should be rideable.  I'll test it tomorrow.  I may also need to replace the fork, but I'll find that out soon enough.

Posted

Cool Colin! SO that freeze off shit actually works? This was an aluminum cup in an aluminum frame (Cannondale)?

 

Might have to try this on my friend's bike that I so far can't get the drive side crank arm off of.

Posted

Definitely aluminum (Cannondale) bike, forget if the old bottom bracket was aluminum or steel threads, but it was 100g heavier than the new one.

 

I ended up switching the derailleurs between the two bikes, so now have all ultegra 6500 on the cannondale, new KMC X9.93 chain, and a new front derailleur cable, and then went out for a spin.  Felt good, even though I am still super slow: http://connect.garmin.com/modern/activity/556708808

 

7AqE4OI.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

I decided to kick my own ass yesterday.

 

76 miles, 4300ft of climbing including a half mile long section at +10% right in the middle of the ride.  I did a bad job hydrating and consequently ended up cramping badly for the last 11 miles.  Still managed the whole trip at a bit over 16mph which is a lot slower than I'd hoped but by the end I was just happy to survive. 

  • Like 3
Posted

Ended up slightly adjusting my seat height and moving it back about an inch based on several fit guides I read/watched.  Now my stem seems to be too long, 110mm and I think I need about 90mm.  Now that I think about it, I think I moved my saddle as far forward as it is above because I felt too stretched out.

Posted

Colin,

 

You might try riding it as-is for a little while to see if you can adjust some.  When I first started riding the Calfee it felt way too long but through a combination of riding it more and making some fit adjustments I've got it pretty comfy. 

  • Like 1
Posted

I did the trip to the train and back today (3) which puts me near 9 for the week.  I'm on the verge of collapse.

  • Like 4
Posted

Question for you all.  My seatpost was stolen yesterday, along with my seat, and I'm not sure of the best way to go about measuring for a new one.  Do I just measure the diameter of the hole without the clamp engaged?

 

If it's any help, this is on a Trek Lime Light coaster bike.

 

Thanks

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