HC Bike/Cycling Thread

[pigmode]

On the Gunnar site, it looks like mine is in between their 50 and 52, but closest to the 52, so I took those specs and noted the differences in mine that I know.

Calfee Stock Gunnar

Size/ST 52/52 52/49

top tube length 53 53 (mine is 52)

seat tube angle 74 75

set back 14.3 ?

chainstay length 41.5 42.5

stand over height 77.4 75.9

b.b. drop 7 7.5

head tube angle 73 72

head tube length 11.3 11 (measured mine)

wheel base 97.2 100.2

Other than st, ht, and stand over height, these numbers mean nothing to mean in terms that I could translate into "it would work" or not.

For a -1° seat tube angle change, an (identical) saddle will move forward about 8mm to maintain the same saddle setback (tip-of-saddle to center-of-bottom bracket). Relying on the numbers above, in that situation you would use the same stem length with the Calfee.

Edited November 24, 2012 by pigmode

[Dreadhead]

The issue is that the final saddle setback between the saddle and the bottom bracket has to be the same for the bike to fit so the difference in angle just means she will need a setback seat post.

This will mean that you will end up with a shorter stem anyway.

Your plan to take your bike for comparison is a good one.

[boomana]

I have a setback post on my bike already. I don't know what that then means.

I have an $800, $400 and $100 check in my wallet that I've forgotten to take to the bank for almost a year now, so by my logic, if I cash those, the bike and dinner are free. Worst case scenario is if it doesn't fit, I can sell the bike or steal the Dura Ace for my current bike and sell the rest, and still come out ahead. John is going with me on Monday so I'll maybe listen to his more cautionary way of doing things, but probably not.

[boomana]

Okay, this is entirely unrelated, but I found it amusing in context of this site.

http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/bik/3403966773.html

[n_maher]

Vicki,

I was thinking the same thing about the DA components. Sweet looking frame, I hope it can be made to fit.

[CD44hi]

Good luck Vicky. The idea of taking your bike is good.

And the suggested measuring tape. I agree that it is a no- nonsense in terms of not loosing cash, other than time. But that is all in the game and fun of it anyway. If it fits it is way worth the trip and effort. If not then just a bit more time needs to be invested to recoup.

[Dreadhead]

I would not use the old 9 speed Dura Ace myself. Your Ultegra is a better group for the use you describe.

As far as setback seat posts go the FSA 32.5 mm one should give you enough. If you are going to buy it I would be happy to work up some math on the fit for you once you do some simple measurements.

Edited November 24, 2012 by Dreadhead

[pigmode]

Visualize the bottom bracket as a fixed point.

- Extend upward two seat tubes at 74° and 75°--the top of the 74° ST will sit ~8mm to the rear of the 75° ST

- to maintain the same vertical relationship to the BB, the saddle on the 74° ST will sit ~8mm forward on its rails than on the 75° ST

- moving forward from that same fixed point at the top of the seat tube:

- the 53cm TT ends up 2mm more forward at the head tube than 52cm TT, because it begins ~8mm further back

[Dreadhead]

Your concept is right but my point is that what matters to you leg flexion is where the saddle nose (assuming the same saddle) is relative to that bb and the seat angle is basically irrelevant to that. To get that number the same the 8mm will need to be taken back out by setting the seat back.

[n_maher]

Ok, I've only watched up to the 3:59 mark but HOLY SHIT!

http://www.pinkbike.com/news/SEA-OF-ROCK-video-2012.html

[boomana]

Well, I actually understand what you guys are saying, but it's not sinking in. My method will be to compare the two bikes, do a little measuring, bring a little step stool with me and see if I can sit on the bike, however awkwardly. If it feels like I could ride it, I'm buying it and taking it to my fitter, and he can worry about the numbers. Since I can ride comfortably for hours on my current set up, I'm assuming he got it right, and can hopefully make this right.

[Dreadhead]

Good idea Vicki with the fitter

[boomana]

Ok, I've only watched up to the 3:59 mark but HOLY SHIT!

http://www.pinkbike....video-2012.html

That was pretty amazing.

[boomana]

Well, fricking nix the above seat tub angle. Just found my paperwork. Mine is 73.5. I also have a 22 setback, if that means anything to you numbers guys.

[parris]

In looking at the numbers the Calfee "should" feel and handle sportier. Not twitchy like a crit bike but easier for when you want to change your line and such. The higher b.b. number, slightly steeper heat tube angle, and the shorter chain stays will act in concert for this. You don't want to move the saddle forward to compensate for the longer top tube and stem combination. If a shorter stem and even shorter reach bar can get the fit where it'll work for you that's the way to go but messing with saddle position is coming at the fit backwards. Saddle height and fore/aft is probably the most important part to get right on any bike first. then adjust the bar and stem combo. I say this as someone with a bad and unforgiving knee brought on by wear tear and injury.

Vicki do you feel cramped or stretched out on the Gunnar? Do you have any neck, arm, upper/lower back pain after long rides? Do your hands ever get numb? You said that you ride in the drops a fair amount. How do you feel on the hoods and tops as far as reach? Do you find like you have to push yourself back onto the saddle due to sliding or "tipping" forward? Do the bars on your present bike feel to high or low?

One of the things with the Calfee that will be different than the Gunnar is that it appears the Calfee has a level top tube versus a sloping top tube on the Gunnar. This will make for a bit less stand over height and for identical bikes may have a slightly different ride feel. Sorry for the 20 questions but if there's something on the Gunnar that's close to the edge it's good to know before looking at the Calfee.

[parris]

Hey Vicki I was typing and just saw your post re seat tube angle. 73.5 is a nicer number than 75 as far as fit and such. you may be closer than you think fit wise between the 2 bikes. After all these years I still get jazzed with this stuff

[boomana]

I appreciate all the help you and others are giving.

I'm fine on the Gunnar. I had a moment of hand numbness a few months ago, and got a slight adjustment, and have been fine ever since, even at 80+ miles. I'm fine on the hoods, and the only question I ever have with the bars is if I should have gone with a 38 instead of 40 as sometimes I feel they would be perfect just a tad narrower for my shoulder width, but since I've not had a problem, I don't think about it often. Other than that, which really isn't a deal for me, everything is perfect, though I'm still messing around with saddles, and may just get another B17 and remember to keep it covered this time. I do sometimes push myself back on the seat, but not because I feel like I'm moving forward, but because I feel like I can get more power going when I do, if that makes any sense. I really can't describe it better, but since this has been my only bike, I don't have experience enough to know the right words.

[parris]

Given what you've just typed the numbers on the Calfee don't look bad. You "may" need or want a slightly shorter stem but things don't look out of left field with it. What you said about moving to the back of the saddle is what a lot of cyclists do when they're pushing a largish gear or climbing seated and is completely normal. Just curious do you know where your fitter has your knee set up in relation to the pedal spindle? he/she would've dropped a plumb bob from your knee and set saddle fore/aft so the string would fall within a certain range. It's cool stuff

[Augsburger]

Ok, I've only watched up to the 3:59 mark but HOLY SHIT!

http://www.pinkbike....video-2012.html

Wow! And i thought 12% downhill on a single track was ballsie. How the heck do you pick a line going down those rocks? I used to live not too far from that district, lots of nice mountains there and great beer for afterwards.

[Dreadhead]

Calfee builds bikes with race handling. Call it what you want but can feel "twitchy" to a lot of riders and is why everyone and their uncle is doing slacker geometry bikes for "century" or "epic" type rides. Add to that a short stem and some may find the steering too quick. I don't personally mind the race type geometry for long rides.

Vicki it really sounds to me like you should be able to make it work. It's then up to you if you enjoy the handling and ride you get.

Edited November 24, 2012 by Dreadhead

[mrarroyo]

Vicky, I just saw this and I could take you the bike from Miami to Fort Lauderdale. I would pick it up during a weekend and take it to you during the work week if it helps send me a PM.

[boomana]

Thanks, Miguel, but I need to check it out myself before dropping $1100. I'm going on Monday evening. Maybe you should start cycling and ride with us

[MoonShine]

After spending some time on the fluid trainer on Friday (which I am relieved to report went well after reading some sketchy reviews; A little noisier than I expected but no other issues) I took the Defy out on Saturday for a cruise around town in the rain.

Wow. My first bike was a 10 speed Peugeot I got for Christmas when I was 11 years old.

Haven't had a road bike since then; they have all been mt bikes including the Cannondale I toured the coast with in '92.

This is a whole different animal. So light and fast. Like going from a van to a sports car. It's going to take some getting used to.

My last bike was a Marin Coast Trail "comfort"/commuter bike and the riding positions are obviously drastically different.

This feels so much more forward. After the first few miles I felt fine in the 2 upright positions but the full drop position still feels really weird which I am going to need to remedy as that is the best position for good braking, especially in the rain.

What I learned:

Most of my gear performed very well in the rain, especially my Showers Pass jacket and North Face pants.

Exception: Nike Gore-Tex shoes: fail. Soaked.

Exception 2: My seat bag is not water proof or even water resistant.

Very pleased that my back and neck were not sore at all. My neck has always been an issue, even on the comfort bike, so that's great news.

Braking is an issue: in the top forward position I can brake but not with much leverage. Not sure how much of the issue is the rain though so I need to compare when I do my first dry ride.

I love how the frame fits me. It feels absolutely perfect.

All in all, very happy so far!

Edit: kinda funny when I first got on it. I have never seen this type of shifter and it took me a few minutes to figure out how the the hell to down shift. Mostly by accident discovered it was the brake lever! Most ingenious design.

Edited November 24, 2012 by MoonShine

[CD44hi]

on a very bizarre turn of events, I may end up with a replacement bmc, a di2 equipped one, something really different to try. I should know more in about one or two weeks.

;;

[boomana]

Moonshine, glad you like the bike, and you'll get used to it. It took me a couple rides, but now I love riding in the drops.

on a very bizarre turn of events, I may end up with a replacement bmc, a di2 equipped one, something really different to try. I should know more in about one or two weeks.

;;

That's quite a tease. What's the scoop?