wink Posted December 6, 2014 Report Posted December 6, 2014 Imagine if you could simply unplug them and use a different one? I used to calibrate electronic loads which had TO3 transistor sockets.... http://au.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Keystone-Electronics/4618/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduhUxr3jTixc9EgEzr8ZrzhASMyYmCW8urNnjb4F40KMicOW4jYM9YfM Thankfully transistors require one to use a soldering iron to remove... In this case, only 2 screws.. Roll dem ol' 2N3055's & BUX80's
arnaud Posted May 23, 2015 Report Posted May 23, 2015 I don't often link to head-fi but this is a special day: http://www.head-fi.org/t/439657/headamp-blue-hawaii-special-edition/7155#post_11627945 Next stop is getting a proper voltmeter (isn't it?) and starting to go through the stash of XF2 / XF4s I have accumulated while waiting for the amp... cheers, arnaud 2
Augsburger Posted May 23, 2015 Report Posted May 23, 2015 Beautiful looking amp there, and beautiful sounding too I would guess.
nopants Posted May 23, 2015 Report Posted May 23, 2015 I really like the proportions that Justin achieved with the fully-exposed tubes and spiked feet. Kind of regret selling mine now, the amount of work that goes into one is no joke. Maybe when BHSE parts run out and he's forced to go to Carbon's I'll place an order
spritzer Posted May 23, 2015 Report Posted May 23, 2015 I have enough parts stockpiled to make some 500 BHSE's and I imagine Justin has some spares as well.
nopants Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 Not 100% related but it seems like there's a BH original looking for a good home... http://www.head-fi.org/t/763265/blue-hawaii-wood-paneled-price-reduced-2x
johnwmclean Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 A naamanf build... nice. I wonder what state it’s in now as its been through a few hands. and arnaud your BHSE is stunning, congrats.
nopants Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 If it's proven functional it'd be a pretty good grab regardless, especially given the state of 1968s http://www.ebay.com/itm/2SA1968LS-Original-New-Sanyo-Transistor-A1968LS-/121046710647?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c2ef23977 the dotcom bubble was merely a leading indicator of this
spritzer Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 That's also Dalbani, aka the people who sold me hundreds of fake 1968's...
spritzer Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 While on the subject, my mini BHSE is nearing completion. Same size as the Carbon and just a bit bigger than Justin's amplifier unit but this one has the PSU built in. Was supposed to have a R-core transformer but that went apeshit on me so a toroid was installed in a hurry. 3
Kerry Posted May 24, 2015 Report Posted May 24, 2015 (edited) That's Purdy Edited May 24, 2015 by Kerry
kingofsnake Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 Love it...And those waaaaavy heatsink fins may i ask where you picked them up? Oh and any chance of seeing her Topless!
kevin gilmore Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 actually the top does not come off, the boards are bolted to it. the bottom comes off. (paging steve...) its Purdy on the inside, birgir will have to post pictures. 1
nopants Posted May 25, 2015 Report Posted May 25, 2015 Love it...And those waaaaavy heatsink fins may i ask where you picked them up? Oh and any chance of seeing her Topless! I think it's a modushop chassis, one the dissipante ones
spritzer Posted May 26, 2015 Report Posted May 26, 2015 Yup, it's a modushop chassis. I'm just about done with them and will have to move into custom stuff. Using these is a bit like building on sand... Anyway, here it is with the toroid I was forced to install after the R-cores were DOA. It's all attached to the top panel which does make things tricky. Aside from some slight transformer noise it runs perfectly and doesn't get too hot. Here is is running on the bench: 3
nopants Posted May 26, 2015 Report Posted May 26, 2015 Wow you really shrank those boards, impressive. planning on releasing the boardwork? Did you change the output current? What don't you like about the modushop chassis?
spritzer Posted May 27, 2015 Report Posted May 27, 2015 These boards won't ever be released but we did update the old Headamp design too so that could be shared. No sense in moving away from 20mA for this design. It's those steel bars which hold everything together. They are never the correct size so the amps will become difficult to get right. Having everything terminate in the sinks makes things easier but not always. This is why I'm looking into custom boxes...
kingofsnake Posted May 27, 2015 Report Posted May 27, 2015 actually the top does not come off, the boards are bolted to it. the bottom comes off. Ahh i see all the components are attached to the underside whilst the tubes exit the opposite side. Thanks nopants however spritzer's comments regarding it's construction and by the sound of it getting all the panels to line up sound like a bit of a pita. I think i will keep searching for my ideal case. Thank you for the Bottom-off shots Spritzer. Looking Sweeeeettt! Sorry to hear about the R-core not working out. May i ask what version of the PSU are you using in this build? are all the large capacitors 500v?
GeorgeP Posted May 27, 2015 Report Posted May 27, 2015 These boards won't ever be released but we did update the old Headamp design too so that could be shared. No sense in moving away from 20mA for this design. It's those steel bars which hold everything together. They are never the correct size so the amps will become difficult to get right. Having everything terminate in the sinks makes things easier but not always. This is why I'm looking into custom boxes... What did you use for shoulder washers for the 1486 and j79/k216? The aavid ones I am familiar with do not fit.
luvdunhill Posted May 27, 2015 Report Posted May 27, 2015 They fit if you enlarge the holes in the tabs.
spritzer Posted May 27, 2015 Report Posted May 27, 2015 That psu is just one of many BH variants that I've drawn up over the years. 500V input caps and 450V output caps. You can get it through with some care (that's what she said.... ) but a drill does help. Just make sure to deburr... 1
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