RockCity

These KISS references are out of place considering my edit before your post. I agree it is not Justin's or Dr. Gilmore's responsibility. Nothing has a 8 year warranty. I offered to pay for an estimate and repair after quickly realizing I cannot diagnose the problem my self. Justin's response implies that it is not so much a repair but a complete overhaul. His offer was also not a commitment but an answer to my question. So there was no offer to pass up. Voltron, can't we make amends? I never burn any bridges and I appreciate that you cared about the issue.

The thread has already ran its course. Thanks for the genuine answers that tried to troubleshoot the issue. Last time I checked, Bieber did not compose Detroit Rock City. Edit: The relationship ends with the track title and user handle. I do not listen to metal but the name reflected my interest for AC/DC, Neil Young, and other groups at the time. Dream Theater is the closest thing to metal to me.

Voltron, you never had to be in it but you decided to be a heckler. Subsequently, you pulled a non sequitur and complied these allegations. Please, let me see the rest of your instincts if they are as marvelous as your first. I already decided before you pulled your diatribe that I will not send the amp to Justin, due to his answer "the fastest thing to do is just switch the circuit boards with new ones & install the DACTs". I already stated "Justin, I will be rescinding my request since the your suggestion is more extensive than I imagined." So Voltron, who else is there to leave out? Justin? Or the person who keeps responding?

Voltron, if you haven't grasped the transitions already I'll spell it out for you. My only question to Justin and other Stax experts in the beginning was the explanation to the hum. I've received similar suggestions to check the ground wiring or the ground loop or the power transformer. This was very helpful though I was inexperienced. Then you and several other others decided to derail the issue by targeting the build quality of certain components. To me this was a non-issue and a separate issue to the hum because regardless of the backward components it was intended to make the amp work. Whoever installed the components had the inside knowledge to know that such modification was needed for this particular unit. Again, I did not feel the build configuration was relevant at all to the hum. The reason is the unit was heard by many at the meet. Not one meet, but many more I can assume. This confirms the least that regardless of the build quality the amp worked this way. Secondly, this may also suggest that the humming is a new issue or else it was likely that one or more person may have flagged this issue earlier. I would like to see your extensive list of those who have tin ears so I can be careful in the future. Voltron, you and others had derailed the thread and engaged in negative criticism. Why did I bring up the plate cover on the third page when I've noticed the issue much earlier? It was an obvious hint directed that the unit had its components installed in such fashion for a long time e.g. the match wiring. Consequently, it worked for a long time and that the seller may have not known anything about what's inside and had no reasons to check. Put differently, I wanted to state that the status quo of the amp had nothing to do with a possible new issue. Of course, it was hard to state directly to Dr. Gilmore and to others when I have no expertise compared to them. I even stated earlier in page three that transaction included the statements that the amp had not been opened to Danny's knowledge. Justin confirmed in the most recent page that the wiring configuration was the correct method for this unit. This confirms to me, at least, that the build state had not been changed and had nothing to do with the hum. Voltron if you or other DIY had decided to repair the amp, would you have tried to contort the components first? The fact it remained in such a state declares exclusivity to those who had the inside knowledge. Voltron, I cannot believe I have to type this out step by step to someone almost trice my age. If you are a lawyer, always assume innocent until proven guilty and not vice versa. Instead you throw your accusations to the seller and to me while holding Justin's hands. Justin does not need your defense, he can do it himself. Ironically, you confuse your criticisms with mine and that is what hurts Justin. Who started shitting "I don't know shit, but how could it be correct to switch the ground and output pins on a voltage regulator?" How about "I still don't know shit, but the board would have to be screwed up to call for a part with pins 1-2-3 to be soldered 1-3-2."? Did I once criticize these issues? Voltron, your arguments are anachronistic and you are reading the threads backwards. It's easy to assume I have an ulterior motive when YOU paved the thread towards criticizing the build. Be the adult and stop reading my posts and go back and read your own.

Correct, none of the products I received whether it was from Singlepower, Woo, or Eddie Current were free from cosmetic defects. There were always signs of workmenship and assembly. However, the condition on one side is conclusively better than the other. All audio components display their age from basic touching to racking or user abuse. Meaning most if not all of its age was shown on the wrong side. Furthermore, the metal has a curve from heat expansion to suggest this was the configuration for a while.

I am stating that the cover was upside down for a long time. The age and conditioning match the rest of the unit. What this means is that had the amp been opened, it would be have been opened when it was in new condition and a long time ago. The correct side of the panel is in remarkable shape. Furthermore, there is not a single fingerprint or on the correct side meaning there is a chance that it was never installed the right side up in the first place. If it were passed around and opened as frequently as Voltron suggests, someone would have noticed the mistake and also touched both sides of the cover.

Hi Voltron, there really was no secrecy. In fact, I stated on page one that this amp was from the 02/20/11 meet. It's easy to figure out who brought the amp to that meet. On the second page, I didn't give out the name at first because you and several others began criticizing the components in the amp. Subsequently, Monkey asked for the owner's name. I felt people decided that the problems had a relationship to the owner as opposed to the build quality. Also, I felt that the mixed components was a separate issue to the humming; people were just criticizing anything wrong they can find in the amp. If you want the truth, I think no one fucked around in the amp. It was Justin's work. I am not a DIY but a basic detective can tell that the amp had not been opened and that these features were workarounds in a preliminary design. I already explained this as simple as I could in my posts. Justin, I will be rescinding my request since the your suggestion is more extensive than I imagined. When I looked at the stock images of the production KGSS it not appear visibly different therefore I thought a maintenance was possible. Thank you for answering my questions.

Augsburger, the reason is because the person is not here to defend his side. It is too easy to be blackballed in this industry, especially when people tend to associate malformed hardware with the treatment of the owner or seller. I'm giving Danny the benefit of the doubt that he knew none of this. I don't want people to blame names because I'm not interested. I just want to know if the problem can or cannot be corrected. Danny suggested asking Justin about the original owner since he does not know. This only became relevant when people said that the machine may be tempered with. It is uncharacteristic of me to ask for help. I rarely post in discussions on either sites because I feel people tend to be very emotional about their beliefs. I'm sticking out my neck now because I'm interested in learning about this issue. If Justin or Dr. Gilmore does not care about this issue, I will not pursue it further.

1. It needs to up to spec with the current model. Board differences notwithstanding. Put differently, even if it is a first revision it needs to function and perform the same. I'm not suggesting swapping out the boards just because they have errors. Therefore, I'm betting on that these errors can corrected. 2. Floor noise must be corrected. I had your dynamic amps and they are dead silent. 3. ALPS controls to be replaced with DACT in current models. Replace worn knobs with the current ones.

Hi Justin, I really appreciate your response. I saw that the serial no. is 1000 and I assume it may be the first unit produced. Alternatively, there is no way that there can be 1000 KGSS made seven years ago. My question at this point is do you have any interest in restoring this unit? The unit has a humming issue but both channels are operational and do not have distortion. Secondly, the Alp controls need to be updated with DACT pots because balancing is free-hand. Lastly, The volume knobs are very worn but the overall condition is very good. I want to know if you have the schedule and interest in doing this restoration because I know you are very busy with your life. I ask for your help because I am not sure if the seller will give it to a third party if I send it back. If you are interested, please give me an estimate and also a turnaround plan. Thank you.

I will reinforce my previous post with more evidence. Here is the incorrect side of the plate with faint lines that represent very minor scratch marks. http://img59.imageshack.us/i/p1020585m.jpg/ Here is the correct side with no discernible wear. http://img854.imageshack.us/i/p1020584.jpg/ Here is the actual unit itself posted by an attendant of the 02/20/11 meet in NC. http://img818.imageshack.us/i/fe6480ebimg1810.jpg/ Please notice that the top screws are not flush. Note, I purchased the unit afterward in March and was not at that meet.

Hi Dr. Gilmore, I really appreciate your input and it helps put authority behind these questions. I will do my best to describe my reasoning about what I am seeing. I do not have the least experience in DIY but I am a detail-oriented person. First, I like to point out that the top cover has been installed backwards. Upon receiving the amp a few days ago, I've noticed that the top four hex screws were not flush against the hood. By looking at the top plate, I've noticed the reverse side had larger bore holes meant to socket the screws. Consequently, the wrong side of the top plate was installed for a long time judging by the minor scratch marks. Conversely, the correct side looks brand new and did not have any finger prints before I laid hands on it. I am reasoning that the amp had not been opened recently because of the side of the scratch marks and also because of the direction of the metal bending from prolonged operations. Next, I cannot explain the purpose of criss-crossing the diodes but I wish to point out that the short intersection black wires are identical in terms of girth and age to the black wires used in other parts of the amp. Coupled with the twisted regulator, both configurations are out of the norm and custom fitted to fulfill some purpose. I am not jumping to conclusions but I wish for Justin to disclose me more information about the amp and if certain modifications were requested by the purchaser or if exceptions were made. P.S. Upon looking at the LM7815 picture, I want to confirm that the all three legs are soldered. The angle makes it look like the first leg is not touching the board. http://img863.imageshack.us/i/p1020577.jpg/ http://img821.imageshack.us/i/p1020576kg.jpg/

Here is the system overview. http://img202.imageshack.us/i/p1020538y.jpg/ The earspeakers connector. http://img46.imageshack.us/i/p1020516r.jpg/ http://img39.imageshack.us/i/p1020520a.jpg/ The L/R board. http://img251.imageshack.us/i/p1020509s.jpg/ http://img577.imageshack.us/i/p1020492a.jpg/ The diodes in question. http://img4.imageshack.us/i/p1020571h.jpg/ The power supply board. http://img580.imageshack.us/i/p1020498w.jpg/ http://img40.imageshack.us/i/p1020511i.jpg/ The LM7815 in question. http://img832.imageshack.us/i/p1020568.jpg/ The power transformer. http://img189.imageshack.us/i/p1020523q.jpg/ The input selector. http://img826.imageshack.us/i/p1020519n.jpg/ http://img198.imageshack.us/i/p1020533e.jpg/ http://img849.imageshack.us/i/p1020532.jpg/ Lastly, the AC input connector area. http://img192.imageshack.us/i/p1020517gk.jpg/ http://img831.imageshack.us/i/p1020528e.jpg/

I asked for the original owner's history, however, the seller does not know. Communications lasted a month before the transaction even began. I am very thorough with sales details and I asked the seller to confirm that the amp was stock and in working condition. I'm not sure if Justin can pull out the record of the purchaser by the serial no. on the board. Please keep the discussion going so I can learn as much as possible. Edit: I will re-upload the images on imageshack since photobucket keeps resizing.

Hi digger945, I will try to answer your questions the best I can. The diodes are not being bypassed. Here is a different angle. http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/4765/p1020571h.jpg