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Everything posted by HeadphoneAddict
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Is that a recliner?
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Looks ambitious. I wish you the best, and look forward to seeing how it turns out. When I was a pediatric resident my main "photo" contribution was making video tapes of the kid's birthday parties on the cancer unit, and giving the tapes to the parents as a keepsake. Sometimes I wished I'd made a copy of the tapes for myself. Many of these kids were on chemotherapy and could not leave, so we brought the party to them. It's impossibly hard to keep a face mask on 10 kids coming to the party to visit one immune suppressed birthday boy. If not for the child-life specialists' constant lobbying we'd never have gotten approval to do it.
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Ye Macce Threade
HeadphoneAddict replied to Hopstretch's topic in GoRedwings19's Computer Help Hotline
Sometimes booting into safe mode and then restarting will restart spotlight indexing without crashes, and then mail search will start to work too (when complete in a few hours). It seems to be more reliable than going into system preferences > spotlight > privacy and adding the Macintosh HD to the list, closing preferences, and then removing the HD from the privacy list. -
While cheaply made, my Sanus have lasted 2 years without any sign of failure or damage.
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I was just trying to keep it in your budget & the Harbeths you suggest are almost double that. But the Super HL5 plus do make more sense in a large room. The Zu speakers that were suggested are quite efficient, I just didn't think that they were very refined sounding. Subtle would not be how I would describe their sound signature. But for rock music they might be an excellent choice.
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Happy birthday!
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I'd consider the Harbeth P3ESR which would come in under budget, so you could use the left over money for speaker stands or other necessities... I really liked them at RMAF last year, and thought they were much better than an Zu speakers except for less bass extension, but they sounded great without a subwoofer. The imaging and transparency was great, as was micro-detail and tone. I figure you'll hit 90 dB at 1m with about 4 watts of power, so you'll need all 30 watts to get to that level at the farthest end of the room. Just a thought.
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This is the one I recall some people using to load music from PC to iPods/iPhones https://www.doubletwist.com
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I hate Lyme disease. We need better testing. Some doctors won't give you antibiotic's simply for getting a tick bite, and yet 40% of people that have Lyme disease antibodies test false negative and miss getting treated. So what are they waiting for? Symptoms. But then they don't adequately treat long enough, and it leads to persistence of the organism. But we have no test for persistence except for tissue biopsy, since antibodies don't tell you if the infection is current or in the past.
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Doubletwist might still work, but I haven't used it for years. You can set iTunes to look at your normal music directories for music without moving your music, so that you can still use other music players like you always do, but then still sync music to your iPhone with iTunes.
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On your phone or iPad go to settings > FaceTime > and uncheck any email addresses or phone numbers that you don't want to be bothered at when they FaceTime her. On your Mac go to FaceTime and choose preferences, and uncheck them there too.
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I've recently heard of it - haven't seen it in any our our three eligible devices. Let me clarify, my iPhone 6 has never crashed in the 6 weeks I've had it. The iPhone 6+ has crashed to an Apple logo only 3 - 4x in 5 weeks, usually after making some rapid changes to email accounts or settings and then going back and forth between mail and settings to check the results.
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Ye Macce Threade
HeadphoneAddict replied to Hopstretch's topic in GoRedwings19's Computer Help Hotline
Works fine for me - I accidentally forgot my 15" rMBP power supply when I went to Houston for a funeral this summer, and my daughter's Magsafe 1 with adapter charged my 15" retina MBP just fine. -
Glad you got your iPhone 6+ sorted out! My daughter's plan was to use the local candybar phone/SIM for public calling/texting with her peers on the trip, such as arranging a meeting spot, or for calling local business establishments if needed while out and about. She would privately use the iPhone for Email, Facebook or Web surfing, and to Call/iMessage/Facetime us at pre-arranged times. She'd use her iPhone as a hotspot in those few cases where she has no WiFi and needs to upload or turn in a paper for school. She'll have a $120/mo phone plan with AT&T that gives her 800MB/mo data, unlimited SMS, and $0.35/minute calls. She mentioned wanting to use it as a GPS when needed for directions, which would be the one time she'd need to use it in public. She was a little wary about picking up a phone AFTER she get's there, because she might end up with one that only works in Nepal, and then she has to buy another phone in the next country instead of just buying a new SIM. Obviously, only using the one iPhone would be more economical if she can find a way to keep it safe. She is using an unlocked iPhone 4s right now, but I was going to give her a 3 month old unlocked iPhone 5 for Xmas. She could just take both iPhones with one as a spare, and if one is lost/stolen and "find my iPhone" doesn't help recover it, then she can remote wipe it and activate the other one. But, having a cheap unlocked phone for public use might be safer. I found some with qwerty keyboards for $40-50 on Amazon but there are some complaints.
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The 2009 CanJam in LA was awesome - so glad that my son and I attended that one!
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My daughter is going to study abroad in the spring, visiting Nepal, Jordan and Chile. They don't recommend the students taking their iPhones out in public, and recommended that she get a cheap phone to swap her SIM into for public use. She's thinking she'd actually use both phones, keeping her iPhone out of sight and buying a cheap GSM quad band phone with a local SIM for local calls and texting in public. Can you guys recommend something for her? We had a Sony Ericsson 810i that worked great for two trips to Germany, but I can't find it. I think something like that would be fine, although a qwerty would be nice. We have SIM adapters if she wants to move her tiny iPhone SIM over to the less desirable "public" phone, but she probably wont. Since she'll have an 800MB/mo international ATT iPhone data plan, I don't want to have to pay for a second data plan on a local SIM, so it doesn't need to be a smartphone (more likely a target for theft too). It does seem strange that they didn't say no smartphones (like Android), just no iPhones. Is a new $120 Motorola E Android phone really that much less of a target than an older iPhone 4s with the same value?
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x2 But then I had to choose between selling the 009 or a Rolex for the college fund, and the 009 went.
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Last summer we bought a Samsung UN55FH6030 55" LED 1080p 120Hz - 3D HDTV, and it's been great so far. At first I was sad I didn't get a plasma, but the blacks have been great.
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Did you have a subsidized upgrade on the phone? Because if you've had it for more than two weeks you're going to lose your upgrade. If that's not an issue, at least you have an opportunity to save up an extra hundred dollars for either the AppleCare or a 64 GB version.
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My never acted up, even after listening for four or five hours at a time.
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We use a tiny solar pack that can charge an iPhone to use the camera with gps (in a waterproof Lifeproof case). It was maybe $110 at the local Boy Scout store for a 9600 mah solar pack that only needs about 4 to 5 hours of sunlight a day.
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I've never actually paid attention or timed the charge time on my iPhone 6+. I just plug it in at night and it's full of the morning. However I would not consider three hours to be excessive charge time when it runs so long that I can plug it in every other night if I wanted to. I imagine 1-2 hours of charge time could have it run the full day.
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Trunk Monkey?
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Sorry, I'm really not trying to be argumentative. I was just trying to answer your questions. On my GMT Master II the gap between the end-links and lugs appears to be tighter, that's all I'm saying. In my case I'll probably stick with NATO straps to hide the gap between the case and the spring bar if I'm not using the stainless bracelet. Your end links with the leather strap would not be out of the question if I wanted to go that way, as it's still likely that the leather strap looks better with the end links than without. But, does Rolex make a fitted rubber strap that closes the gap between the strap and the case, like Omega?