HeadphoneAddict

It depends on whether it's gold, and the year, and the condition. Let's assume it's a late 60’s - 1970's gold filled in excellent original condition with automatic movement, I would maybe pay between $750 and $1100. I'll go check eBay, and see if I can find something equivalent that sold recently. I've just never tried to do that on an iPad, and I'm in a surgical waiting room right now while my daughter gets her pins & rods removed from her left leg PS: I would still test the date wheel by rotating it through past 12 midnight, because it could be misaligned simply because it's 10:20 PM on the dial and getting ready to change. A Serial number on the movement will help us easily place a date on the watch and I have the charts and tables up through 1998. If the clasp on the leather strap is Omega signed that would add value, as well as the strap itself being genuine Omega. The problem is there are a lot of fake straps and clasps out there.

I'd ask when it was last serviced, and be concerned about the week-day wheel being slightly out of alignment. I'd want to see the actual movement and serial number to confirm it's not a fake. I wonder if it's a service dial because it looks old enough to have tritium but I don't know if the dashes on either side of Swiss Made means that it's radium or tritium, but the watch is not old enough to have radium. The dial does look aged it may be original to the watch, and I don't see any evidence that the dial has been repainted. He'd want to confirm that the crown is original or it's the correct part if it's been replaced, because frequently in watches at that age people will put any crown on it that fits. Do you have a photo that shows whether it has an original omega dial, which would have the omega symbol etched in the very center of the Crystal?

I got a pre-paid (free) Fed-Ex return shipping label from the seller, to send this back tomorrow for a full refund. It's a great looking and comfortable watch - but with it needing a full service and new bezel, and being almost 15-20 years older than advertised, and having the signed clasp almost destroyed by over-brushing, my watch maker said I could do better. If they would have given me a $500 refund then my watchmaker said it might be worth keeping, but it still needed a $300 service.

Many Apple stores will keep extra used keys in stock and will replace the key for free if you make a genius appointment.

The Ti SMP chronograph runs +4.9 a day when I'm asleep for 10 hours, and runs +17.5 seconds a day when I'm active for 10 hours. Methinks it needs a service. I've arranged for a phone call from the seller in the morning.

That's where part of my confusion comes from, because I thought these came out around 1993. The Omega serial number charts sometimes had watches that didn't fit (like the Speedmasters had an entirely different line of serial numbers per year than other models), and it's possible this is a 1993 or newer. From inspection with a 10x loupe, and with my experience under the loupe with many real ones, fakes and Ti watches, this is not a fake. And the bracelet, not counting the over-brushed clasp is in amazing condition for it's age. I'd think only Omega themselves could get it this right. RE: serial number discrepancies from the factory - I have a Speedmaster Moonwatch with a movement serial number from 1979 and a caseback from 1974 and I had to buy an abstract from Omega Archives to find out when the watch was actually made. Omega says that based on my serial number it was made in October 1976. That would fit with them pulling older case-backs from the parts bin, because they mixed in the new 1976 backs with the older 1974 ones when supplies got low (they made the backs dated every other year). It's just that nobody had reported to the "chart makers" that there was a real 1976 movement found with a serial number in the 1979 range (I should do that). So, maybe it's possible that somehow a 50 million series SN made it onto this watch case in the early 90's. But yeah, there's no way it was new in 2011. I know that in 2009 Omega was up to 85 million with my Planet Ocean, and my son's SMP is in the 80 million range and someone told me it was low to mid 2000's (the age charts stop at 56 million in 1998). Regardless, the dial and hands are definitely Luminova or Superluminova, and look to have been replaced recently, based on the vivid red colors and lume (no orange hands or faded markers). At 12 midnight last night I shined a 160 lumen flashlight on three watched for 10 seconds (the new Ti, our early 2000's Seamaster Pro mid, and my new automatic Victorinox Dive Master 500). ALL 3 watches were readable in a dark room at both 3AM and 6AM this morning, The Victorinox hands and bezel were the brightest, but it's hour markers were dimmer than either of the Omega's hour markers. The more recent SMP's hour markers and hands were very slightly brighter than the Ti Chrono at the end of the test. However, the more recent SMP bezel dot's glow had faded a bit by 3AM and was gone by 6AM (while the Ti bezel dot doesn't glow > 5-10 seconds). It's clear the Ti bezel is much older than the dial and hands, and also older than the the early to mid 2000's SMP. This could be fixed entirely with a new bezel dot (or bezel) for $520 and a local service ($250). It just that if it's an early 1990's Ti SMP chrono then it's worth $2100-2300 "as is", and I paid $2500 credit card shipped overnight + 1% fees (based on my info that it was a 2011 watch with a dinged up bezel that they were crediting to me in the discount). If I keep it then I think the seller also owes me a service, since a 2011 could have waited 1-3 years and this might need one now. It might be dry as a bone.

Benjamin says that If I give him my 6 month old Seamaster Pro black ceramic bezel non-chronograph for his graduation, then I can return this watch and not have to spend $500 on a bezel or $300 on a service with my local guy. Also, for close to this price I could buy him a used Blue bezel/dial SMP ceramic that he really wants. But he'd take this one in a heart beat if the bezel dot glows and it's serviced. I had to part with a seiko, a hamilton, 3 citizen, and one orient to help pay for this one. I'd almost rather keep the money in the bank and give up one of my safe queens for him.

Okay, so I'm confused by this new watch, and I need to get an accurate age on the Omega Ti SMP chronograph that just arrived. Here's the deal. The dial and red hour markers, dial lume, and the little red hands on the sub-dials look fairly new. The bezel does not look nearly as dinged up to the naked eye, but it's fairly beat up when using a 10x lupe. The hour, minute and second hands look slightly older, but they all glow for at least a couple of hours when hit with a bright flash light (we're testing it tonight vs my son's 11-12 year old Seamaster Pro Mid-size). However, the bezel dot seems to be DEAD, and will only glow for about 5-10 seconds after hit with a bright light or blacklight, making me think tritium, although the dial says "Swiss Made" without the "T Swiss T" or "T < 25" at 6 o'clock position. The dial and hands could have been replaced. The seller's website clearly says, "Pre-Owned Watch; Purchased circa 2011 from authorized Omega Watches dealer. We are unable to confirm exact date of purchase as original owner misplaced Warranty Card / Certificate." So, I checked the serial number, and it's 50,008,1xx and all 5 charts I found say this watch is from 1986! The dial and hands could have been replaced in 2011 when it was "bought from an AD", and this could be an older watch than was represented by watchuwant.com if it was bought as a "used watch" from the AD. I thought I had a service history, being that if it was bought new in 2011 then I was due for a service in 1-2 years, and I could replace the dinged up bezel now and service it later. Now I have no idea if I need to get it serviced too. Also, the clasp has also been highly over-brushed, so the Omega Seamaster Pro lettering is very faint, but the rest of the watch seems fine other than some dings in the bezel that got me a $545 discount to replace it. Theoretically, all I need to do to bring this watch up to my standards is to replace the bezel ($520) and get it serviced my my local guy ($250). Or, I could spend $700 to send it to Omega for a full COA first. But then I might find out they might not be able to replace just the bezel dot to return full functionality, and they'll want another $500 in parts. The bezel insert is not replaceable, and the whole bezel must be replaced. But what about the bezel dot? So the Questions are: 1) How old is the watch? I didn't think they made these in 1986. 2) can the bezel dot alone be replaced on a Ti chronograph, or is it like the insert and an all or nothing proposition? If the dot can be replaced, I may opt to send it to Omega for a full service and a new dot. 3) Should I just ask the seller to take it back and refund my $2500, since the age was misrepresented? This is one of my grail watches, my chuck Maddox Homage watch in fact, and my son's loves everything except the dead bezel dot - it's light, handsome, bigger than his 36mm SMP, and a classic.

I almost have that same watch - but from 1962 and it's gold capped and says DeVille just below Seamaster. It's got the same Omega 565 movement which is very accurate and the autowind seems pretty efficient. I'm very happy with mine, and wore it to my step dad's funeral last summer, and a couple of special occasions since. Mine was $1150, so that price for your choice may be fine, but I was told I overpaid $150 (even though fully serviced with genuine Omega leather strap). One expert said I should have bought a constellation Pie Pan for what I paid. Mine came from a reputable eBay seller, who dropped the price from $1450 after I called his phone and spoke. Pieces of time is a good place to buy from - I got my year 2K GMT II Coke Bezel from there, for almost $1,000 below market value, and it keeps good time, glows bright at night, and looks fantastic.

Actually bought one of these in stainless last summer from Jared jewelry for 10% off retail. Then I decided I needed to have the latest and greatest and bought the new version with ceramic bezel and 3330 movement. And then returned the first one for a full refund. I really wanted to keep both watches though, and I knew this would be a classic and they're tractor tough. Benjamin really wanted me to keep it for him. Over the past year I've been doing more reading about these and it seemed like the titanium version was the way to go. I have no problems taking my titanium citizen perpetual calendar in for an occasional cleaning up, and it's never been over polished. I believe the same will be true with this one.

Omega Seamaster Professional 300m Chronograph - Ref. 2298.80 - 41.5mm Titanium - Blue Wave Dial & Blue Bezel I got this one at a Huge discount, because the bezel looked a little too chewed up for me when I zoomed into the photos, and when I called them on the phone they agreed with me. The discount is enough to buy a brand new titanium bezel from Ofrei.com AND get it installed. Otherwise I would have passed on it. This is one of the Chuck Maddox Homage watches that I've been looking for, and it's less than 4 years old. It gives me one more option for a graduation present for Benjamin next year - I can get it serviced in one year and ready to go for hime. http://www.fratellowatches.com/the-chuck-maddox-homage-watch-omega-seamaster-pro-chrono-diver-titanium/ http://forums.watchuseek.com/f409/chuck-maddox-homage-watch-omega-seamaster-pro-chrono-diver-titanium-422971.html http://chronomaddox.com/tzc889revisited.html

I think I forgot to post that I added a PVD Victorinox Dive Master 500 automatic wind watch to my previous SS Quartz version that I bought a couple of years ago. My son wanted the quartz in PVD, so that was his birthday present (yeah, three Dive Master 500 in the house, why?). I took mine off the steel bracelet and put it on a black NATO with red stitching. Love it. It's been running only +1.0 to +1.3 seconds a day, depending on position, after a 2 month break-in. I also found a nice photo of my Explorer II, which I hadn't posted with me wearing it.

Actually, didn't you get your GMT 1675 re-lumed? What year is that? My 1976 Speedmaster Moonwatch tritium lume is almost visible at night, but interestingly the tritium can be hit with a blacklight or flashlight and get brighter for a few hours if needed. My 1962 Seadmaster DeVille doesn't glow at all unless I hit it with a flashlight or blacklight, and then it only lasts a few minutes, white my Explorer II 16570 is impervious to even blacklight - it's possible to see the old Exp II lume but not read the time (52 year old eyes and all).

My watchmaker already offered that service for $100 to me, to do dial and hands. He'd already done the dial and hands on the 1983 Sub I that bought from him, and the price I paid reflected the reduced value (for not 100% original). The re-lume hour markers glow MUCH more brightly than the re-done hands though (he subcontracts out the dial and he did the hands). I suppose if I don't plan to sell the watch then a re-lume isn't a bad way to go, and if I ever send it to RSC for something then I can get the genuine Rolex re-dial at that time.

I love very bright lume on my watches, like that on my Planet Ocean and Seiko SKX173. So, when I was unhappy with my fading 1993 Explorer II 16570 I went out and bought the new 216570 with bright chromalight last year. But I couldn't bring myself to part with my old one, so I kept it to use as a high-end beater watch. Maybe with my next service in 3-4 years I'll consider a new service dial and hands, as I'd rather enjoy using it at night than worry about hurting the value by changing the original dial/hands. I've also considered selling it for a more recent black dialed superluminova 16570, since my new one is a polar white too.

He means keep looking. Edit - or maybe I should've said he meant, "move along, nothing to see here".

When I compared my PWD > ZDT > HD800 vs PWD > KGBH > SR-009

Peter, that sucks, sorry to hear it. While our car was at the tow yard for 4 days after the big accident in December, somebody went in and stole over $1300 of cameras, hard drives, speakers, jewelry and other stuff from our car. The accident was a Wednesday, and by that Sunday my other 2 kids drove 4 hours to Kansas to get our stuff, but we didn't know anything was missing for days and weeks until we'd had a chance to go through everything after we got out of the hospital. Our homeowner's ins deductible used to be $300, but Metlife discontinued that policy after 22 years, and it went to $1000 last April. So no sense in filing a $1300 claim here, just to get $300 of it back, and piss them off at the same time. I can't even upgrade my car ins un/under insured portion for the next time, they denied my request - maybe because they fear they're about to get hit really hard I guess. I dunno anymore...

I spent my late grade school years listening to the Beatles on the new integrated turntable, radio, amp system that my mom bought for me when I was 11 or 12. I started buying 45's of current hits, till I owned a few hundred from part-time work at my dad's Pier1 Imports store. But it never sounded as good as the school dances. So, I started hanging out at a local small independent stereo shop, and the guy adopted me under his wing and taught me a huge amount over the next 4 years before I went to college. I got part-time job in the 9th grade and started buying gear, and turned into an audiophile before I graduated from high school. I started DJ'ing the highschool parties for 10th-12th grade (small one, high school for health professions), and even did a couple of med school parties, but mostly started with private listening with American Kinetics Speakers and Koss Pro headphones after I got my 1st Technics CD player ($800 in 1984). I'm too tired to keep going, so I'll leave you with that. Thanks for your stories!

Happy Birthday!

I'm jealous because my 16570 with an "S" serial number from 1993 has tritium lume that's 95% dead. But you've got the luminova dial and hands. That's why I bought the new 216570 for Thanksgiving, but I still tend to gravitate towards the older one more. Am I nuts for wanting to trade my old 16570 for a newer one with Superluminova (after 2000), but keep the newer 216570? On another note, I gave my "Interstellar" Hamilton (like the one he gave his daughter) to my brother for Xmas, but my Hamilton Harrison Ford Conservation Chrono has the right kind of hands. I love this one, and the Hamilton modded Valjoux 7750 keeps great time and runs 60 hours on a charge.

This is still pretty good

see a doctor now

Ludovico Einaudi - Divenire

Happy Birthday!