digger945

I plan to use just 2 #6 to attach my .125"x1" angle to the HS(Conrad, ≈8mm thick base). Last go 'round I used 3 #8's but I think that's not really necessary with smooth mating surfaces and a dab of thermal gravy. Since I can't seem to drill holes in a perfect line no matter what, I will probably go large on the holes to secure the devices to the angle so as to leave some wiggle for good alignment. I understand what KG meant on this page when I took mine apart to make some changes recently. Far easier than removing the entire HS assembly from the amp. Basically it will be a near repeat of the Dynamite only this time no broken bits or taps>. I must say that I originally thought hard about tapping the angle for device mounting and then, if it didn't feel stout enough, I could always use a longer screw and put a nut on the bottom of the pcb. A few pics.

If I could keep only on can that I own it would be the Denon 2k. I've yet to find the correct setup to make AT5k's enjoyable.

What little time I owned 530's as used with a predator they were perty sweet soundin' buds when you could get a good seal. Very nice having something you can put in your pocket on-the-go to give you a "fix" anytime anywhere, especially at the airport or doctor's office.

It will be very interesting to see what you come up with concerning the different thermal solutions, TIM's vs. grease, or combinations.

Another trick I've used in a pinch is to take the (in this case HS) to the hardware and find another pin that's loose in the hole to use to help give you some more "reach". I've also used a nail but they can be kinda soft. Lowes or Home Depot may have punches that are a bit longer than mine.

I've got a feeling that when(not if) we read all the gushing praise, it will leave me another $1400 lighter. I'm already finding myself abstaining from big ticket purchases in anticipation of it.

Punch. I have a set of cheap ones like this from Ace hardware.

My emu won't do 24 anything over usb. 16/192 is max.

I don't think I could possibly imagine a more nobel or selfless act. Hats off to you and your wife Sir. Good stuff. I'm hungry now. I finally finished proper balanced grounding on the Dynamite, now listening to the Denon 2k's balanced. Pretty good stuff. Need to mow the grass myself but it will be there tomorrow.

I haven't read much from anyone who got to try 7 beta yet, other than it's felt like MS is maybe taking more input from users before launch.

Pcb layout looks good to me compared to Jacob's and Kevin's schematics. Hat's off to Jacob for what I think is a great looking board. There is the possibility that someone may want to use some electrolytics that may only be available with 5mm lead spacing. Rubycon ZL's would be one. This would be a show stopper in red mask.

It would appear(if my eyes don't decieve me) that the two large caps(1000uF 50V on your Mouser BOM?), up next to the outputs, are connected across V+ and V-(potential 60V give or take) whereas the 4 large caps down next to the power entry are across V+ or V- and ground(approx. 30V). I think this one is the same just 63V. Also it looks like the .1uF 50V caps for the opamp power bypassing have no holes to go into on the pcb? It would appear they have pads for a SMD cap maybe. The Mouser part could be soldered to the pads, or maybe you could use something like this. It is a MLCC device so the solder pads are on the short sides unlike the picture. Of course the pcb could always be changed to accomadate a radial part, or modified to fit both. The .47uF opamp bypassing cap on your list has a lead spacing of 5mm, the pcb spacing is 7.5mm. The same cap with 7.5mm lead spacing. Finally, I get 4 little (5mm lead spacing) power supply bypassing caps per board. If these are the .01uF Wima's on your list then you'll need 4 more. If the .47's above are for this role then add 2 more to that list(in addition to two 7.5mm caps for the opamps). I apologize in advance Marc if I mucked up something that is woefully evident to everyone else, my eyes are not all that good and lack a good IC to my brain sometimes;D

I measured and compared to the datasheet you linked to and everything is within specs. The measurements without a tolerance are all exactly spot on. 12mm looks too wide to prevent overlapping but will fit. 11mm would fit better given the current spacing. My dynahi pcb lays exactly on top of the printout I have and is exactly the same width with .3" more depth.

My bad. Yea .026 between the metal tabs, about .068 between the bodies. The body itself is .3995 wide and the tabs are .4130. They don't have Hitachi marking like others I've seen online.

FET pcb image on bottom, DHi pcb on top, Renesas 78/215's. Lemme know if someone decides to back out on the inputs.

This happened on mine till I connected the left and right signal grounds.

How about a cheap source for Nichicon Muse, or better yet BG NX.

It looked to me that the output resistor pads(R39 - R46) had two sets of holes, making it possible to stagger two resistors using 14mm lead spacing, one on top of the pcb using the first and third holes and one on the bottom using the second and fourth.

The copper color hardware is perfect. You are THE can man.

Who wouldn't LOVE those cans. Absolutely fantastic.

Just noticed that all 2 ohms were connected to the source pins on both of Kevin's pcb's, and it would match all schematics if you look at the symbol for the J76 and turn it upside down. I'm now working witha build using LED3 reversed as it is on all of Kevin's pcb's and I have the output of the 2nd stage down to +/- 15V which looks high. I will connect the servo tomorrow and see what happens. Enjoy the rest.

If anyone else has built this I would like to compare some numbers.

Pinout on the J76. 2 & 3 reversed?

Are you sure those small caps are 5mm lead spacing, I measure 3mm. 7.5mm on the 6 big polars.

I think so, being the same part as CMF55 they should be good to 1/4 watt within specs. I just put a RN55D in the calipers and I get .246" length on the body. This might work for the 5 ohm.