digger945

I like that better than holding a probe next to a resistor lead and accidentally piercing the solder mask and making contact with the ground plane (as your trying to hold both probes with one hand and adjust with the other). Be nice to have something that diggs in and wont slip. I will be looking for a pair of those R.

The moskido is close to the 24V Aikido HP amp, same tube input but a different SS output. No board for the moskido that I know of. Aikido kit can be ordered with most everything except tubes and PS, and Donald gave a link to some affordable 6gm8's, antique electronic supply iirc. I really like the 24v Aikido, it's a very fun amp to listen to and tinker with, without having to worry about HV.

Have a good one CJ. Wish I could meet you at le tub and see your ugly noggin.

In light of your budget deficit you could substitute a Gamma 1 full config for the time being.

True. I have 2" Aavids on mine as opposed to the stock 1.5". Still they get only warm even when hooked up to the Dynamite via umbilical and having the EHHA tapped directly to the board.

I put a DMM in series with each of the rail supply lines and measured the current drawn from the sigma. It was about .35A per rail to supply both boards with the heaters on to make sure everything is conducting properly. I let them sit on for about 2 minutes to see if anything would drift.

I haven't had time to do much with the EHHA lately. I remember adjusting until I had .23V across the output resistors. I can plug it in again and do some measuring if you guys want, can't seem to find a certain pink baggy for another project atm.

The heaters on the EHHA are on a seperate PS. For the pair of EHHA boards all plugged in and running I get 350mA per rail (that's 2 boards together).

I am sure with a large enough transformer, say minimum 100VA, you won't have any problems. I have run both EHHA boards and two Dynahi boards from one Sigma22 with an 80VA transformer with no problems(HP's plugged into both while playing music). The transformer does get moar warm this way but not stinking hot. What size toroid do you have Smeggy.

Dude, have a good one.

DynaPhat, I was thinking QuadraFET. No, no opposition here, DynaPhat is .... well Phat.

Wrt Conrad MF30-75's(@3"x12") I have 16 outputs at 75mA each per HS and it's only just warm. I feel like these could easily handle double the heat. The devices are spread out along 10 of the 12 inches. When cranked to 100mA the devices get a little hotter but it seems to make little difference to the HS's themselves. I guess if I had a temp probe I could give some more useful info. The thermal resistance is .37 C/Watt for 80

What about a dedicated unregulated PS just for the outputs, leaving the S22's to power everything else. I think you know where i'm going.

OH my bad. I thought you meant 1A per device. You mean 1A total right.

I mainly meant that I couldn't get the gate voltages down low enough to put the outputs into a somewhat decent bias, like you had originally targeted, somewhere in the 150mA range. Think I'll wait until you do some more testing and probing with a load on the output to comment further. My little proto was not quite as organized.

1A is gonna be 30W or the limit of these devices. When I was playing with the one I built it got the toroid pretty hot in a hurry. What do you have on the gates? I had difficulty getting the gate voltages down with the adjustments and values used. It would be good to change some values around to be able to get the gates down a little, and in a more comfortable adjustment zone. I'll do some tinkering later. Sexy lookin' board.

ooo, that looks nice.

I used a very, and I mean very thin layer of thermal goo on mine. They are all but impossible to seperate or move once in position.

Yea, I think you have safely secured number one spot in team "overly adequate clamping force between heatsink and bracket with uniformly smooth mating surfaces". Congrats. When I lapped my Conrads with a piece of glass it left the sandpaper black, I didn't use oil though, just did it dry. When I handle aluminum foil faced insulation at work it leaves my fingertips black too. That's just aluminium I guess. EDIT: Hey are those a pair of the Justin HS's with holes and bars?(I haven't even opened mine up yet)

I'm diggin' it.

killer album^

That's what I get, and of the resistors I can see everything looks good. I'll assume the 4 resistors to the far right and left behind the buffers are the 5ohms. It looked like the fourth "A" emitter pin (first pin or left most pin) had a ball of solder on the leg. Your first rate pic and lettering scheme makes it easy to help out. I gotta figure out how to post pics like that sometime, with thumbs that pop up and are click resizable.

Yep, 20k in middle and 10k on sides. x10 on the flux cleaner solution, I'll have something different before I start building these and test it on some boards to see how it works. I would prefer something handy in an aerosol can, some other folks claim good results with products like this but comment that it can be a bit harsh on the capacitor labeling/wrapping sometimes.

You have a 20k pot parallel to the 681 ohm for the negative rail bias adjust(the trimmer on the left in your pic). What value is the one in the middle that we can't see. It should be the 20k for Vbe multiplier adjustment. Looks like the one on the right is 10k, as it should be. I'm still looking, slow as it is. I like your solder, care to share what brand it is.