digger945

Indeed they are fun. I have found they responded quite well to being balanced, and if you have some extra power to give 'em, but they will only go so far in stock form. Given all the comments, I shall have to give the recable a try I guess. I'de love to try some D7000 drivers in the 2000 chassis I just bought, but it seems too soon for the parts to be available yet. Thanks for sharing the comments.

I paid $220 shipped for mine, used on HF. I understand, my definition of entry level pricing is probably not the same as everyone elses, but I'de still buy them for $350 if I absolutely had to and there were no other options.

In my experience/in my mind/to my ears/in my opinion/given my listening preferences and taste combined with my music and the way it's recorded and played back...... .... i have found it very hard to beat the D2000 as entry level cans. They still do what they do very well... for me that is, and I still listen to them a lot.

Your question will be answered when you are listening to a gsx and dynamite side by side within your own setup. They are similar amps, but not the same parts:p. After all, only a handful of people have ever built the Dynamite:o DIY RESOURCES - Kevin Gilmore DYNAMIC HEADPHONE AMPLIFIERS and POWER SUPPLIES HeadWize - Project: A Pure Class A Dynamic Headphone Amplifier by Kevin Gilmore I've never seen a bridged pcb for either hi or lo.

^Agreed. I have not listened to every amp on the planet yet, but I would have to say in my very limited experience that the KG designed Dynahi/Dynamite that I have now would indeed be, to me and in my own words, neutral. It doesn't wow you with anything at all, it's just.....well.....right, to my own ears. It would best be described by me as accuracy with great control. It also has the most awesome bass slam I've ever heard in a HP amp, but again, I haven't heard them all so..... The man knows a thing or two about his creations. I look forward to the next KG amp in the works now.

^hold all calls please, we have a winner. I digg the 945's. giggle giggle.

Have a good one.

Copied from whytubes "If you ask enough people (particularly audiophiles), you'll start to discover some truly metaphysical theories on why tubes sound better. Some explanations utilize quantum theory, some are simply wrong, while others are just plain bizarre. But in my own circuit designs I've encountered some odd phenomena that I can't explain. For example, in a mic preamp prototype, I discovered that performance measurements were different if the unit was upside down. After I tried to eliminate all possible environmental factors, the difference persisted, even with a variety of tubes, and in different buildings. It was audible, too, though subtle. Was it caused by gravity slightly shifting the internal tube elements? The earth's magnetic field? I still don't know. Tubes sound better because their distortion products are more musical. Tubes provide a more appropriate load to transducers. Those are the fundamental reasons why tubes sound better, but is there more?" Found googling "input capacitance vacuum tubes" w/o the quotes.

I think you should replace the "O" in Buffalo with the power switch.

Black mask would look spiffy wouldn' it.

1.645 on the positive side, 1.655 on the negative.

I am finished tinkering now. The board is biasing properly with the parts Kevin mentioned above (10k resistor, 20k pot), and has amazingly stable offset without the servo. Yea it's gonna be a little hotter than the Dynahi. The one FET board transplanted into my amp with only two outputs is a little warmer than 2 Dynahi boards with all 16 outputs. In the mean time, I will continue to tinker with my own proto board and see if there is anything I can come up with to reduce the bias and make things not so hot. On the biasing resistor values Marc wanted, I have 480 on the positive rail and 520 on the negative. Marc had 470 and 510 so basically the same thing. Should you choose to leave the board and values as-is, then 620ohm paralleled with a 10k pot will be, to me, perfect. The board Marc sent has 681 and 10k and is very workable and has good range.

I'm still tinkering around with the Vbe multiplier and some higher values for the output resistors. So far so good, I just finished rebuilding the multiplier on my own proto board and have some much better results now using 2.2k resistors and 10k trimmer. I have some parts on order that will be in the middle of next week to finish up here. I would like some input as to changing the input bias trimmers(10k's) and the 20k trimmer in the middle of the Vbe, to something smaller and not as touchy, in series with a position for a resistor. This will allow much more flexibility in tuning and allow more precise control over the trimmers. For example instead of 10k maybe a 1k trimmer in series with a 9k resistor. Also I'm waiting to see how it goes with Kevin, it is his design. It's coming along. Slow, but progress each day.

^This is "wireless". ^This was my 3rd grade science project. ^Group buy T.

I have a new Plitron 162VA here on the bench. I should put it with one of the kits I got from you to make a dedicated supply. I guess I thought that if one sigma I have now could power 2 Dynahi boards at 16 x 100mA then this would be no problem.

Finally blew a 2A fuse on the IEC. I'll wait until Kevin finishes his board and see how it goes.

Yep I have been looking for make before break toggles. Did you ever see the thread on HF about the vintage toggles? I have looked everywhere for the easy to flip toggles found on older recievers, and also found on some not too old scopes. Love to find some of these somewhere besides resorting to robbing them from old equipment.

I'm still probing around and adjusting things. It's really tough to say with only one board. From what little I have listened to, at most about 3 minutes at a time before shuting down to cool off, I think you guys will be very pleased. Don't you know -=Her=-, over on -=HF=-?

Ditto on everything Marc said. This one of Gilmore's children does not play well with others. It's hot headed for sure, and if left unattended will burn the house down.

Just now recieved the board. I will mount it to my heatsink tomorrow. How thick was your L bracket Marc?

You make my woodworking skills look like a popsicle ashtray made by a kindergartner. I really get a woody (bonus!) every time I see nice dovetails. You must share what kinda jig you use. I once owned a Leigh jig but the ex did something with it. Too complicated anyways.

The Conrad MF30-100 would work great with a Parmetal 12x12x4" enclosure.

That roughly parallels the time you really need for the Dynahi. The frequency of the filter for the opamp integrator is 0.05Hz so yea it's pretty slow to react to input. As you mentioned it would be wise for anyone using this design to allow some time for things to settle in as they warm up. On a side note, Jacob has stated to me that the Uber controller may have input offset monitoring incorporated into the design.

That sounds good Marc. I feel confident that, with proper matching as you say, this can be built without the input bias pots, and the opamp can more than handle any small offset after warmup. Good show, I can't wait to get started.

Knockin around for a PS for my dac and happened upon this at 6 moons. link