n_maher
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Posts posted by n_maher
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Uh oh, the Tomahawk is not getting universal praise from the NYC crowd...
Clearly they did not drink enough of the official meet beverage before listening.
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Agreed and I'm sure they don't belong in this thread.I demand more impressions!
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That's an insult to the Krell.Does anyone think it is a very lousy copy of this??
http://www.krellonline.com/krell_component.php?id=87&page=EVO202
Ray's amp looks like a bad derivative of the Krell perhaps. There's just way too much going on for me - not to mention the layout flaws I mentioned along with your noted design problems. There are elements of the chassis that I like actually, the lighted source knob is really trick but it just gets lost next to the monster volume knob and I like the layout of the tubes and their hardware but they get lost behind the faceplate.
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Jebus, I thought the XLR's on the front were annoying but the DC cord has to run clear across the back of the rig from the power supply to the amp. It'd be one thing if they were meant to sit next to each other like the Raptor but since this is designed to stack I just don't get it...
And Jay, at least he didn't put B-52 in quotes
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Not that everyone hasn't seen them by now but Ray's got pics of the B52 up on his site now... Can someone enlighten me as to why he would have put the XLR connectors on the front panel in upside down? And sorry, but that is the weeniest power switch I've seen in a long time.
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I'd throw a different, known good source on it first and see if that helps. Might as well remove as much from the chain as possible. I'd also make sure all of the tubes are properly seated and that the pins are clean.
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Evidently Sears has already sold out of the T-Shirts - behold the power of Head-Fi. For those who might want one you can find them at cafepress.com in a few different styles.
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As far as I see it the buying and selling of commercial gear is complelely unregulated by Head-Fi. I've been told MoT's/Sponsor's tend to keep a close watch on the FS Forums - I've been warned for selling DIY stuff at what was perceived to be a profit
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I've tried it both ways and honestly I think splicing to the existing wires (just below the connector) is the best route to go. It allows a much more reliable connection and doesn't mess with the pin position. Cutting apart the connector to get at even just the base of the pins is a serious chore and I don't think the last 1" of leftover cable is going to destroy the new cable's effect. At least that's what my ears tell me.Nate,
How do you splice in new wire to the 650 connector?
Do you have to cut the connector apart, or do you just connect to the wires coming out of it?
Also, just a hint, but I use adhesive-lined heatshrink at the connection to the existing wires to provide a solid mechanical connection in addition to the solder joint. I actually try to leave the wires slightly slack inside the shrink but who knows if that really happens.
Best of luck,
Nate
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If I were hunting Singlepower's I'd pick this one up. It could always be sent back in for further tweaking and shaves $600 off the purchase price.
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I don't want it to look like the B52 or anything like that but if you're going to take the time to have a front panel made you could easily make it more appealing than that, hell even a different font might make all the difference. At some point, and I don't know where it is, part of an audio purchase becomes about the whole package and not just what's on the inside. Wouldn't you agree?It's a no nonsense product. Drew hasn't added $200 in casework to boost the price by $1000 -
Hmmm, kinda "plain-jane" looking for a $2200 amp.
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Ken,
Would this work?
http://mytreo.net/store/product.php?xProd=94
All I did was google "2.5 male to 3.5 female" and that was the first or second link. There seemed to be many others from reputable companies. Sorry to hear about the Ebay debacle.
Nate
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Simply put the only way to get them is to take them off an existing cable. If the connectors are ok on your current 600 cable I'd suggest cutting them off and using them to make something like this:Anyways, I was wondering if anyone knows where to get the seemingly proprietary connectors that Sennheiser uses in their headphones.
That's just raw Cardas headphone cable coupled to some 650 connectors. It cost about $95 to make that cable which to me is much better than spending $200+ on getting one made. You could always try making one out of cheaper wire and seeing what your ears think about the results before spending that much.
HTH,
Nate
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I think people need to just bear in mind that you're never going to hear Tyll's side of this, or at least not all of it. He can't explain it because he's bound by a relationship to Head-Fi whether he wants to tell Jude to piss off or not. My personal opinion is that he's bent over backwards to try and help Head-Fi and is probably about just about sick of it. He volunteered his company to underwrite the National Meet because Jude/Head-Fi couldn't, he volunteered his contacts within the industry to help make the meet a success even though it meant less exposure for his company and more competition in the room, he held the proceeds of the meet because Jude can't accept them even though it potentially could lead to tax issues for him and finally if there was a vendor in that room who made less of a big deal about being there I can't think of it. Most of them (with good reason) were hawking their goods all over the place (as expected) but Tyll and Andrew (at least I think it was Andrew) just kind of kicked back and let people come to them. While there is no doubt that Tyll has financial motives in this game his overall motivation has always been to grow the hobby and let people find Headroom as a result of that.
Also, I have no idea what sort of discussion between Tyll and Jude may have gone on recently, it may be that Tyll new that Jude was going to make this post and is fine with it, then again maybe Jude decided that he didn't want to support the Hobbyist organization? Who knows? Probably only Jude and I'm guessing you wont see him posting about it any time soon. Clearly he doesn't want much discussion about the $$ since he's already locked the thread he started
.In the end the Hobbyist's Association is going to move forward with or without Head-Fi for the simple reason that it has to. If it doesn't we all risk losing what little control we have over the national meet and other large regional meets. How long do you think it's going to take for some corporate entity with no interest in growing the hobby or running it as a non-profit to come along and see that there's money to be made by hosting a large Headphone event? Personally I'd rather see Head-Fi involved with this effort but if they'd rather be the enemy of it so be it.
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Oh, wait till you get "casino" access, you'll learn all sorts of interesting facts about Ray...*GASP* What are you talking about!? Ray makes the bestest products ever.
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Are they going to reimburse all the shipping costs that you've laid out?!?!?Apparently when the Denon repair shop installed the new drive they damaged (Folded a corner) of a ribbon cable. The player is burning in over the weekend.
I'm glad to hear that a problem was found and looking forward to only hearing good things about this source in the future.
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Didn't I sell you a couple of cases for this amp last November?
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I had seen Zin's custom cable a few years back and forgot about it, thanks for reminding me. I may give this a shot as I think I have everything I would need already.
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How's the isolation? The info on their website is pretty vague, "up to 25db of isolation".I use UM2s under my motorcycle helmet, and find the flat profile in the ear works very well...
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I did consider this and have not ruled it out fully. I would like to hear what others think of this and it would of course be great if someone had actually done it before. My concern is that the driver housing/tube of the Ety is still pretty long even without the wired connection. For example Sensaphonics provides a "sleeve" option but it doesn't look like this would at all adress what I'm trying to do. Westone might be the answer (Headroom metions them in their Ety description) so I'll probably drop them an email to see what services they offer.
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I'm finding more and more that the profile of the Etys is interfering with my enjoyment of them. Allow me to explain a bit. I primarily use these headphones for listening while I'm doing yardwork (mowing), riding the motorcycle (at low levels so I can still hear the world) and while reading. The fact that the Etys protrude quite a bit outside my actual ear when properly inserted is causing some discomfort and annoyance. So what I'm wondering is what would be the cheapest route to custom-insert IEMs? The least-expensive commercial product that I've found is the UE-5c's and at $550 they are well beyond what I'm willing to spend. Anyone have any other suggestions?
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It'd be nice if they could just work USB out from it at this point. I think a Ipod/Alien DAC/Pint rig might be kinda fun. I mean it's already got the USB interface built it so how hard could it really be?
Anyway, my 3G 20gig is getting long in the tooth (thrown 2 HD's already, love that BB warranty) and way short on storage space so I'm not sure how much choice I'll have when it comes to replacing it.
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New amp from RSA...
in Headphone Amplification
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