n_maher

Yeah, if it's an environmental variable like that I just don't think that full sized cans are going to cut it. If I were you I'd look into either custom IEMs or something that fits your ears better than the ER4Ps, assuming that comfort is the issue. I know that my ears hate the tri-flanges any more but can tolerate the foamies for hours. Weird since I used to wear the tri-flanges exclusively. I really wish Westone would get their act together and release their new universal so they can get started on the custom version. Seems to me that there's a pretty big hole in the sub $500 custom IEM range. I can't get myself to take a flier on the live-wires for some reason.

How much isolation do you need? It always stuck me as a pretty bad idea to change the fundamental characteristics of a can (open to closed). I'm not saying that what other have experienced isn't a good change, only that for the cost of modifying the Senns you could buy another set of headphones entirely. And seriously, if closed/isolated is what you need the only thing that I've found that offers any real isolation is IEMs. Everything else seems to be in the 10db reduction category, which just doesn't cut it for isolation in my book. However, if what you need is just to limit sound leakage then that's a different story all together.

F'ing SWEET! I love it when I don't break things.

If it wasn't for the fact that you routinely do shit like this billy (as I said several pages ago) I might actually believe that you were sorry. Instead, what I'm left with is the feeling that you felt like you got caught and tried to save face.

postjack, ftw.

Oh *yawn* billy, your act is getting seriously tired. You come in, stir up whatever shit you can, then apologize and pretend you never meant it or were joking, blah, blah, give me a friggen break. If you think a group of like minded individuals qualify as a clique I think you need to go back and do some more research, there's quite a few of us that disagree about many things and the truly great thing is that we're not afraid to discuss it and not have to agree about it.

I wonder if trose has figured out yet that he can't edit his posts.

I really appreciated the time and effort that the author took in explaining how the different components were selected. I may very well have a go at building it with a different input tube. Otherwise there's the ubiquitous gain-clone type amps, I've got one of those completed but have never cased it up and never applied power, yet another thing to get off my bench one of these days. Jebus, I've got a lot of stuff sitting downstairs.

I was going to start out (and have some of the parts to do so) by building the boozhound labs 6SN7/6V6 speaker amp. This was mostly because I wanted to get the theory behind the design at the same time rather than just reading directions and stuffing a pcb. This build is currently on hold until I get some other stuff off my bench but I really hope to get to it this winter. And I have no idea how it would sound, only that it'd be pretty cheap to build ($300ish IIRC) and parts and tubes might easily be transitioned to other projects if I decide I don't like the way it sounds.

I believe you lost him right there, Reks.

First, congrats and good luck on your new venture Ethan. Second, what sort of friends and family discount are you planning.

Happy Birthday! My you find yourself enjoying at least one of your favorite things today.

Last I knew a couple people had done it but those much smarter than me advised against it since there's no provision in the circuit to do so. The optical was always meant to be there, the man'f just decided to leave off three parts and not have it active. It's literally one resistor, one cap and the TORX module.

If either of the above had rolled off anything that was to an audible degree it'd be measurable, right? I have yet to see information of any kind to support that a pot not to mention stepped attenuator has frequency response altering characteristics. Whether or not they affect the perceived sound is certainly something that I've observed but call me a skeptic to freq. response claims.

Let me know if you need anything tested Haj, I picked up a tester a couple of weeks ago and have the hang of it now. I found a couple of bad tubes in my Wheatfield batch, good that I'd never used them but bummer that I bought bad tubes that were supposed to be good.

Not to mention that yours now has an optical digital output.

I think that's less a reflection on the K340s and more of a statement about our relative spending thresholds when it comes to headphone gear. Most of us are (w/ the exception of jay perhaps ) don't really expect them to compete against the $1000+ crowd of headphones.

I probably wasn't clear enough in my original post. What you do is install Musicmatch onto the host PC, add all of your music files to the Musicmatch library and then close the Musicmatch software, never to be used again, it's the friggen devil. The SMC simply connects wirelessly (or wired, if you wanted to for whatever reason) to the PC and uses the Musicmatch library file to create a directory structure for itself which you can then browse directly from the unit. It works almost exactly like the SB3 albeit in a more crude and less polished manner. But hey, what the hell do you expect for $60?

Me too, but I've got two other meters that also perform just fine for basic functions. I'm guessing that all you're doing during the bias adjustment is measuring voltage, which just about any meter should be able to do with enough accuracy to get the job done.

Grawk, I wouldn't go internal with the source, but that's just me. Too many trafos in too tight a space, just asking for trouble. And damnit Stephen, why'd you have to take the thing apart? I know what I'll be doing this weekend now. Say goodbye to PCB mounted crappy RCAs.

Fair enough, I guess I see a preamp as one of those things that should be very easy to do well.

Seriously, if you're going to use the analog outputs for any period of time build even a simple regulated supply (wallwart/TREAD), I think you'll like the results. amb measured the stock switcher, it's terrible.

You don't need a Fluke, or anything particularly special actually. You should easily be able to find a serviceable meter for $50 or so.