n_maher

Really? That's messed up. Stuff it in a padded envelope and send it up for warranty repair.

Incorrect, I specifically excluded cable making from the retirement.

It's a prototype jacko and ultimately I let the end user decide how they want their cable to look. As usual, this isn't for me.

Start to finish I'd guess that cable to less than 2 hours, probably closer to an hour and a half. There wasn't anything worth watching on TV last night so I built this instead. I thought you already had an equally swanky Senn cable? And does nums even own Senns? Or are you talking other cables which both of you still have to get back to me with information on? I swear I've sent nums at least a couple emails about this...

Looks would be slightly deceiving there, it's probably on par with my old Zu Senn cable in that regard. The insulation on this cable is very thick and with 4-strands being braided (even loosely) there's no way to end up with something that is all that flexible. But it's not aggravatingly stiff, that's for sure.

It went ok, typical of a first effort. I think the second time around will be much easier. I didn't experience any problems with the pins overheating or getting loose as some others have reported but I definitely cooked a little of the surrounding plastic at the solder points. Hard not to really but I think they always intended you to cover them up with shrink like I did. I also filled the cavity around the pins with hot glue to hopefully keep everything nice and stable, then applied a layer of adhesive lined shrink which laps from the cable onto the lower section of strain relief and finally wrapped the whole connector in 1/2" 3:1 non-adhesive shrink to capture the whole thing. It sure seems like it will result in a nice durable cable. And of course thanks for the kind words.

So I finally got around to using one of the sets of Cardas Senn connectors that I have last night. This cable is form my new "SUCKITALO" line of cables and uses Neotech unobtainium UP-OCC wire (22ga) braided per the OCD instructions posted by the guys at Chimera Labs. The main body of the cable is wrapped in nylon multifilament and terminated with a somewhat pedestrian Neutrik plug. I spent about an hour listening to it last night and I have to say that it was sounding fracken great.

Who could have imagined it, the two robots were both born on the same day. Happy Birthday!

I'm guessing that it is at least somewhat a result of him being a pioneer of the concept of geosynchronous orbit. Or at least that's what I've been told.

That fact makes me want to buy it less.

No, no it's not.

Ooooh, I hadn't seen those. I smell a custom power cable in my near future. I tend to use pretty generic stuff in my power cables, usually sourced from the local big box store. I'll have to look more closely at the VH audio stuff and Neotech for my current project which will have a 10A heater. [edit]scratch Neotech off my list, any company that makes bulk cable that costs $300 a foot is bonkers.

Potentially easier to find and less expensive. I'm not sure how available 4-gang steppers were as little as 5 years ago.

Am I the only one not bothered by the change? Seems pretty fricken benign to me although I can see why it would affect some more than others.

Nice! For my next project I decided to go w/ dual 4-pin Amphenol's.

As long as there's no active ground channel you should be fine.

Good luck with them, I'll be curious to hear your thoughts after getting to know them a bit.

Steve, I'm assuming that the subs are active and have some sort of level adjustment on them. If so, I wouldn't think that their performance would suffer all that much if you fed them from the beta without modification. Heck, you might be able to feed them direct from the Opus depending on what their requirements are.

Thanks for the input Kevin.

Here's your second chance, don't fuck it up.

What are your planned mods? Lower the supply voltage (assuming it's at the stock 30V now) and drop the gain down to 2?

And this goes back to my original question, is it really any surprise that what is basically a speaker amp doesn't make the best preamp? Although I'm still shocked to hear anyone claiming to hear audible noise out of a properly built beta22.

Just an FYI, you can't remote link to any of AMB's amp pages, they'll all take you to the root directory. Also, Ti freely recognized early on that the M

I thought kevin had already posted that somewhere here? Looked and can't find it but I'd swear we had part of this discussion before... Yup, found the other reference to Kevin's comments in your "low power SET" thread. I know that the measured noise on the output of the beta22 is pretty fricken low and that the measured example was setup to be a head/speaker amp, not a preamp. Still, please feel free to PM me what Kevin had to say, I'm curious. It makes one wonder if the b22 in question was setup to be a preamp? I have no idea what Nanoha's beta was setup like but I'm guessing it had the stock gain of 8 which is ridiculous for a preamp. Beyond that it's really a speaker amp first, absurd headphone amp second. Would you try and use any other speaker amp as a preamp? And I have to wonder about anyone claiming to get noise out of one and whether or not they built a single-chassis amp which is damn near impossible to make silent without a shielded trafo. That's user error, not amp error. So I guess what I'm saying is that expecting something that was built to drive moderate speaker loads to be a great preamp seems odd to me. But, properly configured the beta22 should make an excellent preamp. Haj, yours would likely take a little tweaking but at least it's starting life as a two box design which should help.

Animal crackers.