n_maher

Glad to hear that everything seems sorted out but I'm not sure that I had all that much to do with it. The PPA is a great amp, don't be fooled into thinking otherwise.

I've never used Redco, are they any good?

I wouldn't use an FM transmitter for anything other than audio books.

Great work, Steve. Should take you about one week to exceed my abilities.

Just bought ~$80 worth of mounting hardware for upcoming projects. Man, nuts, bolts, washers and stuff can really add up.

In my experience "back stage" passes are pretty worthless if you're trying to meet an artist. I know when I worked the back stage the artists were pretty secluded and it was definitely the exception when they did a meet-and-greet.

Agreed, the less of that face I see the better.

The amp is battery powered, I suppose that's what they meant. But it'd be like carrying a camera bag around with you which to me is more transportable than really portable. I'll send you a PM later tonight. What's funny is that I wasn't really even looking when I found these. I was goofing off and happened upon a hometheater site where the guy had these listed. They'd sat for sale for over two months with no interest. He had all of the original accessories, box, manual, warranty card, etc., and was really easy to deal with so I decided that rules were made to be broken. And at 1/6 the going rate of HE60s (w/o an amp) it felt like a good deal.

For now I hope to track down a Stax transformer box and drive them with the balanced mono blocks that I'm building. Not sure if a KGSS is in my future or not. It'll largely depend on if these sound as good as I've been lead to believe. Thanks for the advice, I'm half temped to have someone do the recable for me so that I don't have to worry about it.

Yes, it's very true that even reading the temp off a heatsink will yield very little information about the junction temperature. Based on what I've read (pretty little, actually) if you're operating a heatsink at more than half the part's rated junction temperature you're probably in trouble. But taking chassis measurements is at least a place to start and is near the temperature that the other components (like caps) are being exposed to.

I'm interested.

Indeed.

uh oh...

What the fuck? I hope there were witnesses and that they cane this fucker.

Frack, my email insists on forwarding it in plain text, which pretty much renders it worthless and Todd's link to the online version is busted. :| I'd just call todd and ask if you're interested.

It's in his latest email newsletter and not listed on the site. Shoot me your email addy and I'll forward it to you.

Well, he did use the sadcat smiley so it would at least appear as though he's not happy with his choice...

I'd have to admit that I enjoyed this album far more on my second listen. Heck, now seems like a good time to give it a third.

It's good but not great. Still has the occasional glitch, I mean feature where it'll lock up for minutes on end for no reason at all but that's Comcast, not Tivo's fault I suspect. Overall I'm happy we made the switch although I still pine for pure Tivo and wish there was a way to make it work...

Vincent, the amount of heat that would cause a problem is going to be dictated, in large measure, by the temp rating of the components used inside whatever it is you're worried about. In the case of the HR Balanced Desktop, I can't imagine it being an issue since HR tends to be pretty conservative with what they'll tolerate for operating temps. I don't remember that amp getting all that hot (relatively speaking), I mean it was never "I can't touch it hot" like the Wheatfield. If it really is worrisome for you get a IR thermometer and monitor the temps periodically. I think you'll find that what's warm/hot to the touch isn't all that hot really. For example, caps like the Panny FC's are rated to operate up to 105C, which is way hotter than any of your components are running (at least I hope so!).

Grados...dark...faints

I think that it would be safe to say that you and I hear things differently. No wrong implied on either side, just that I've rarely heard the 650s sound shrill, it took a Cardas cable and a very thin source to make them sound that way. This all may be a moot point though, considering that the tube amp that I'm building is inspired by a desire to knock the crap out of the 650s.

The original game was fantastic and I have no issues rehashing all of it. In fact, that's part of what makes it so great, the fact that you can play all of the old levels again. It was Mac only.