n_maher

Could we all calm down a bit here? Hirsch's advice (distilled): if you don't know what you're doing when it comes to high-voltage tube amps your safest option is to leave it alone and seek help. I see no bullshit there. Kevin's advice (distilled): Singlepower incorporates several standard safety measures to limit the possibility of frying yourself while working on one of their amps. So if you know what you're doing you can proceed with appropriate caution. I think Kevin actually threw Mikhail a bone there so why are we telling each other to fuck off again? Clearly there are things inside some of those amps that are less than completely safe.

Well, that would actually suggest that their pricing is still the same.

Says the guy with grammatical errors and no punctuation in his post...

Sounds about right. My last pricing info from them is a year old now and probably not current.

Once you move out of the Hammond-type chassis you'll probably find that prices escalate quickly. Example: Lansing Graybox 8.37" (1/2 rack) x 6" x 3.47" (2RU) - part number B2H06-001A - will run you $68 each. You also might see if you can get a quote from someone like Context Engineering for one of their modular cases. I haven't done that for a long time so I can't even remember if it was reasonable or not. Cases are the curse of every diy'er.

Elephas, You might seriously consider working with someone state side who could verify that the amps are working for you before having them shipped all the way to you.

I'm very happy with the Buffalo Link Station that I bought recently. I greatly prefer the flexibility of a NAS device compared to a simple external drive.

My thought is for folks buying old 1st gen phones from people who upgraded. If they get stuck with a more expensive monthly plan they're really getting hosed.

Question: are the plans still cheaper for first gen phones? I'm guessing that there's just one "plan" and that now both first and second gen phones cost more per month.

Thread title updated appropriately.

I wouldn't bother, personally. With the cover on you're safe, you just need to be very careful if you ever have the amp plugged in with the cover off since those terminals are before the switch and "always on".

A lot of heat shrink and multifilament.

I just like giving Jack a hard time, I still haven't made up my mind w/ regards to flats on my woodied HF-1s.

Ti is talking about the connections at the IEC inlet. The ends of the wires are exposed, therefore there is live voltage present there that if you touched and were grounded, would definitely feel. A better way to do it would have been like this (the left-hand side of the photo): I cheesed out on the hot connection and just used shrink, but that was because there simply wasn't enough room to use a connector. Ti is saying that at a minimum all of Mikhails connection should use shrink like that and I agree with him.

FIFY

Yeah, me too. Probably going to order a set shortly.

Kinda strikes me like winning a stinkiest turd contest. You won, sure, but it's still poop.

Bought a few 7N7s last night.

If you find my impressions for CanJam I stated my preference. Honestly at this point I can't remember, but I think it was the 11. And yeah, before dropping $1000+ on a set of headphones that instantly become worthless to anyone else I'd say you should demo them even if it means waiting. That'd be a painful mistake.

Would you still say that if it was 23 miles each way?

Heh, krrm, my bike has a motor.

There is an element of that picture that screams, "which of these things belongs together? Come on can you tell which one? Can you tell which thing is doing its own thing?" Hint: there are two jabbas...

FAIL

PC, which should have 10x the processing power needed. But it's laggy, locks up and generally runs like complete poo so far.