n_maher

I'd disable it on headphone XLRs, just like I did on the Menace.

Cheap Flights, Cheap Hotels, Cheap Airfare, Airline Tickets, Travel Deals - SideStep And damn, right now I could go round trip, non-stop for $240. Too bad there's no way I can make the meet, let's hope fares are that low for CJ '09.

Yes, you can, but if you're going to go to the trouble of disabling the locking mechanism why use the stupid jack to begin with? I'm of two minds about that regarding XLRs since they don't always seem to have the same inherent clamping force that most RCA connections do and I don't plug and unplug IC's nearly as often as headphones.

stupid locking neutrik

The sigma22 might make a much more stable PS platform, Ed.

24V Aikido?

A bit more progress was made the other night. I've gotten a bit more done since then but not much really. Progress has been slow going as I bounce back and forth between projects. I hope to have some time over the long weekend to start chassis layout planning. I'm finding that I'm not all that pleased with the restrictions that the pcb is causing regarding layout and the seed has already been planted that this may end up being a prototype of sorts with a PTP version to follow.

The photos were taken with a single-ended ALO recabled "something" plugged into the amp even though neither reviewer mentioned having one.

I don't see you reviewing a $6000 amp with it so no worries, Al.

Oh lord, immediate demerit for the reviewer with an ALO recabled something...

Yup, there's that, Canare 4S11 and there's even one from Furutech that doesn't break the bank for starters. You can get some pretty boutique speaker cables for under $200 if you're willing to throw in a little of your own labor.

Don't start with me Moose. But seriously, Vincent has built his own stuff before so all I was going to suggest to him was a couple of affordable wire types.

FIFY

If you're at all like me it'll vary from amp to amp.

Photo credit, you guys give photo credit now?

I think there are a few posts back and forth from amb and myself in the headwize build thread that outline the resistor mods that I had to do with most of the ones that I built. It was pretty easy to find a suitable parallel resistor value to dial it in IIRC.

Be prepared to futz around with resistor values a bit to get the voltage within the +/- .1V that the Squeezebox allegedly requires. Of course their own power supply violates this spec badly so YMMV. Also, if you want to try rolling diodes to dial in the output voltage let me know and I'll send you 20 or so of the 5V variety.

Yeah, they've been readily available for 6 months or so now. I was just going to pick it up at Best Buy last night but they want $899 for it.

Yeah, public movie displays, even for non-profits are complicated. I used to help with a free movie night at UNH and it was not just as simple as having the movie to show. Unless of course you don't care about the legal consequences.

Shooting an event for a friend next weekend and decided that changing lenses on the fly is for suckers.

ibjbloudg20shill I've heard some well implemented sub-sat systems and as long as the two are fairly complimentary it should suit your needs just fine. And while we're shilling, I'd have a look at Outlaw Audio's line of subwoofers, they make a nice small sub that I've often thought about for my living room.

Right you are, I sort of brain-farted on the class A part. And ouch, I just caught the two per channel requirement.

win

How many watts is the full-spec version supposed to dissipate? I'm guessing that chassis would be good for maybe a hundred or so, but with the output devices clustered at one end like that you wouldn't get uniform dissipation over the whole sink.

These are probably the photo's from the add. Looks reasonably well built if a bit untidy.