n_maher

Yeah, they've been readily available for 6 months or so now. I was just going to pick it up at Best Buy last night but they want $899 for it.

Yeah, public movie displays, even for non-profits are complicated. I used to help with a free movie night at UNH and it was not just as simple as having the movie to show. Unless of course you don't care about the legal consequences.

Shooting an event for a friend next weekend and decided that changing lenses on the fly is for suckers.

ibjbloudg20shill I've heard some well implemented sub-sat systems and as long as the two are fairly complimentary it should suit your needs just fine. And while we're shilling, I'd have a look at Outlaw Audio's line of subwoofers, they make a nice small sub that I've often thought about for my living room.

Right you are, I sort of brain-farted on the class A part. And ouch, I just caught the two per channel requirement.

win

How many watts is the full-spec version supposed to dissipate? I'm guessing that chassis would be good for maybe a hundred or so, but with the output devices clustered at one end like that you wouldn't get uniform dissipation over the whole sink.

These are probably the photo's from the add. Looks reasonably well built if a bit untidy.

minigrabber test leads, finally.

I'll give it a listen in a bit, trying to let my expectations clear beforehand.

Cuing it up now.

Any links to the track? I'm lazy.

The F5 is supposed to be offered through the Pass DIY store some time "soon". Not clear if it'll be a kit or just a bare board though.

Happy Birthday, Jack!

All I can say is enjoy it!

Let me know if you have a raffle/auction type of thing and I'll send a little something to help raise funds.

Pin 5 is Left Pin 15 is Right Take GND from whichever pin you'd like.

He did, and he's not telling (they (2) haven't arrived yet).

Crappy, The problem is that the fans aren't fed from the same power supply as the B+ and to make everything contingent upon the fans starting up would probably mean rewiring the whole amp, which isn't even an option with the pcb. Or if it is an option it's one hell of a coincidence. What might be more appropriate is to have some sort of thermal fuse on the AC inlet, but I'm not sure they much such a device that would be sensitive enough yet not too sensitive. Bottom line, if it were my amp I'd take the occasional casual glance inside the chassis to see how the caps were fairing at a minimum.

Best I could do on short notice.

Joke aside - what happens when one of the invariably shitty computer fans fails and the temps skyrocket? I wonder if there are any thermal protection devices outside of the 2, $3 fans?

If you feel up to emptying your wallet Jim I think that amp should be able to run 5998s on the output without modification and they should sound quite a bit better than just about any 6080 variant you'll find. The 6080, in my experience, is a pretty tubby sounding tube. Another "leaner" option would be the 7236, but again I'd have to scour datasheets to make sure you wouldn't be overloading the heater power supply.

It would be safe to say that I felt like it was the least I could do.