n_maher

I'd cry if I was a crinkle fart.

Dan, You could always crop it tighter.

I prefer the pre-air friend, the one cast for the show is pretty damn annoying. Sometimes a recast can be a good thing, i.e. the girlfriend on Reaper (which was a huge upgrade in my book).

Regarding the stock cable, you need to find out if it's 3 or 4 conductor. Since the headphones are single-entry it could be either. Unfortunately there's no way of doing that without taking something apart so at a minimum you'll need to open up the headphones and see what's coming in from the cable side of things.

It would be my understand that the answer to that is only yes. All DIY = MOT!

Excellent! You know, you officially qualify as a DIY'er now right?

See if you can find someone that is associated with Westone, they seem to have a pretty big network. The guy I found locally had their brochures in his office which surprised me quite a bit.

Thankfully I found a local Audiologist who did the impressions for $20. I can see how cross-border mods would suck, thankfully that wasn't something I had to worry about. The pre-sale customer service from Livewires has also been excellent with questions answered politely and quickly.

Happy Slackday!

I did some more thinking about this purchase and I'm going to go with the Livewires and see how they do. It's hard to beat their 30 day return policy with customs. And I looked into the Westone's a bit more, they look nice, but are even more $$ which doesn't appeal to me at this point.

I enjoyed the first, tired quickly and didn't make it all the way through the second. I might give it another shot at some point but that's highly debatable.

If you'd like to send it to me, I'll fix it.

Smeggy, If you look at amb's site you can still find the BOM that I did in an excel spreadsheet. If you can manage a paint by numbers type of exercise (really, it's just a matter of taking your time) then you should be able to stuff the pcb just fine. Same deal with the power supply. And I for one don't see much need to deviate from the standard parts list for 99% of the build. The only changes to the PS would be to upspec the trafo and heatsinks and same with the amp, just beef up the heat sinks. I might even have some parts to donate to the cause.

I live near the ocean and drive by big ships, I must be a sea captain then. Anyway you slice it the SP foreign policy statements have been 100% .

That is a good deal, it's what I paid for mine used.

How was the run Mike?

I think a high powered m3 would be a great choice. Otherwise, the commercial recommendations made by folks seem to make good sense.

Ouch Billy, that sucks. I hope the repair is "reasonable".

Uh.... #1 - check #2 - check 14.4V has been fine for me for both projects not to mention numerous others.

I've been beating the bag out of my Makita for the last 5 years and it still works great. Personally, anything bigger than 12 or 14.4V is absurd unless you're a contractor.

Live wire specs, straight from the man'f: Drivers: Dual balanced armatures (Tweeter / Woofer) Frequency Response: 20Hz – 18KHz Sensitivity (at 1 kHz): ~126 dB/mW Impedance: 22 ohms Isolation: 25-28 dB (depending on accuracy of impressions) Max Input Power: 150mW Distortion: Less than 0.3% I must admit that the sensitivity seems pretty damn high and perhaps detrimentally so.

No doubt about it, Canon is the big gun in this game.

I'd say Nikon doesn't care is the real reason. Post processing in the digital age seems to have made primes all but obsolete for anyone other than the purists. So they concentrate their efforts on making the best multi-use glass they can rather than on lenses they'll sell very limited numbers of.

Point of clarification: all thanks should be directed to Ian who pointed me to the GH versions this morning. My only skill is in finding links.

Check the Casino.