n_maher

One would think, yes, but I can't say that I've bothered to try and I've never seen anyone else post the graphs. I should send a couple cables to amb and have him run them on his measurement rig. The thing that always struck me funny about this advice is that every damn aftermarket headphone cable you see is braided, every mini-mini is braided, just about every mini-RCA is braided but WHOA WHOA WHOA hold the phone when you do straight RCA-RCA, don't braid those or you'll ruin the listening experience. Oh, and that's not to mention that I've always been told to twist signal wires inside a chassis to help fight noise. Granted, those are for short runs so whatever impact the increased crosstalk might have is probably limited. And lets not forget, I think the bottleneck regarding crosstalk on most amps is likely whatever attenuator/potentiometer you use.

Typically (and I don't know the Zana topology specifically) the only thing that could be done easily would be to run each output through different sized coupling caps. The high-ohm output requires a smaller cap to achieve uniform frequency response so typically builders/designers use high-quality film caps here, for the low-ohm output the cap size can need to be 10x as large (uF wise) and therefore it's simply not practical or affordable to use a film cap so what is often done is to use a film/electrolytic couple in parallel. Could be that the low-ohm switch just adds the electrolytic in parallel with the cap used on the high-ohm output. Hard telling not knowing. In a more complex world it might be possible to alter a portion of the circuit to allow the tubes to more efficiently drive the low-impedance load but doing so via a switch wouldn't sit well with me.

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Most often I use two sets of twisted pairs so that the L and R channels don't cross. Some have said that braided cables will increase crosstalk although I've never seen any measurements to back it up.

n_maher makes note to run if Reks breaks out the Chianti.

In my book the table being sold "as-is" in no way excuses the crappy shipping. I'd insist on a refund and file the appropriate paperwork with paypal if you get the slightest hint that he's dicking you around.

Right, thanks for reminding me!

Immediately, yes you're probably right. I'm quite curious to see what the connectors end up being and if they're available to DIY and smaller MOTs.

Ouch, that's a $$$ stock cable.

My prediction is that you'll waste a lot of quality listening time waiting for a 32 and given my own Buffalo experience thrice's DAC will sound outstanding. And I also think you'll have a hard time finding a well built example with the options that you're looking for in the ~$1200 ballpark. I wouldn't do it.

You will have an awfully hard time getting sound out of the ground channel. Do a little looking around the Right channel and find out what the gain is. I might have a spare working channel in the drawer.

That wouldn't happen to be the ground channel, would it?

Ari, Don't sweat the small stuff.

Wait, I feel like I've heard this tune before?

Happy Birthday Brent!

Even on my speaker amp the output transformers don't seem to rise above ambient temps so I doubt the output trafos on a DAC would.

Yeah, but you're a girrrrrrrrrrrrrl.

Donald, One other thing to consider, I see that you are using a JJ GZ34 for the rectifier. I have been told by multiple sources that there was a rather large batch of bad tubes produced last year that tend to arc and fail in a rather catastrophic manner. If you are running the rectifier very hard you might consider using another brand of rectifier. I had one of the bad JJ's in my personal headphone amplifier (which runs the rectifiers quite hard) and thankfully its failure didn't do any damage down stream.

I wish they would tell you what the keys are, seems pretty random on my Mac outside the obvious arrow keys for movement.

Uh, Donald, no offense, but some of us have been doing it for years. Yes, you can still see the fasteners but it's a lot less obtrusive looking in my book.

I can understand the desire front mount them if you're going to hand-fab the panels but if you're going to go to the trouble of having a front panel made there's not much of a reason not to rear mount them. And if you are going to front mount them at least use something that looks decent. . And yes, I know, I'm a fussy bitch.

Another front panel butchered by fugly XLR jacks, I have a strong dislike for the P-series jacks. Otherwise I like it, clean and straightforward.

Can you take a picture looking down on the top of the front panel? I'm not sure how they could be using a hidden mount unless there's a false front of some kind.

I would contact Stello and see if they are willing to send you a new jack already mounted to the small daughter board pcb. From there I'm sure you can find a way to get the old material out and get the new one in. Kind of disappointed to see that the jack is just glued in though, that's pretty weak.