n_maher

Yes I can confirm that H and G are as shown on the data sheet.

I think Take 5 Audio in Canada has the Vampire stuff, at least last time I looked. Otherwise I'd go with Neotech too, no need ot go any bigger than 20ha in my world. I swear I've sent something like this to Hong Kong before... Back to the IEC - Marc, I'm not assuming anything, you have to use external jumpers to connect G and H to something and logically it looks like B and F are how they intended it to be (from the schematic). But perhaps that's where my fail starts regarding this? One more thing, if you look at the third page of the data sheet you get a back panel view of where all the connections are and how they layout.

Yes, there are 6 connectors (A-F) as seen on the 1st page of the data sheet in the Voltage Selector portion of the diagram. Two of those have to be used to make the connection to the line voltage and the way I see it that would be B and F. Confusingly they label the internal switched positions a-e as well but Beefy is correctly understanding how those are working, I verified that with my DMM the other night.

I need some additional help as well. I ended up getting several of the FN-372-6 modules and for the life of me I can't figure out how to wire one with a dual primary trafo so that it supports 120/240. I've poured over the data sheet and I get what the wheel is doing and what is connected at the various positions but it just doesn't seem like there are enough connections to make it work. The first person to explain it well enough so that this idiot with both a dual primary trafo and also something like a Hammond 300 series universal primary trafo will get a couple freebies in the mail.

It is a glorious train, I continue to be amazed by just how good the 12L's are.

Oh snap! I didn't even see that....

Don't tempt me to start randomly deleting your posts.

I'd say the odds are good and also welcome to my digital hell. It's a NE thing. What's the problem with the Aragon (allegedly)?

FYI to the Buffalo crazies, Version II goes up for pre-sale this weekend. Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio - View Single Post - Twisted Pear Buffalo Sabre DAC

If you get stuck and want confirmation of your testers readings I can test the 5998s for you and see if my results match or at least parallel yours.

When you say the 5998s test "low" on the 6AS7 settings do you mean they test bad or just lower than 6AS7s? And honestly, I'm not sure how much difference that slight an adjustment on the sensitivity dial on your 747 will make and in which direction. Also, if you want the full tube setup file that I plucked that info from just let me know. It's a pretty small file and I could email it to you.

I suggest calling, most small businesses have a painful choice of either answering email all day or dealing with customers. A phone call shows a lot more initiative than an email to most traditional business folks so it might yield much better results even if you just end up leaving a message. It's at least worth trying before sending a nasty-gram to Naim USA.

Yeah Marc, those are nice (albeit 3x as $$) but my gripe is that they don't cover much range. The one you listed will do 30 to 20 and I often find myself working with 18 and 16ga wires and the thought of buying 2 @ $50+ each is more than this humble DIYer's budget can bear. And it would appear that 18ga is the largest any of them can handle...

Time to find out if automatic wire strippers are all they're cracked up to be.

Tom, I hope you heal swiftly and with as little pain as possible. Aura, my condolences. Al, shit man, first round is on me.

Shelly, Here's a piece of the 747 tube setup sheet, at least according to the Boat Anchor Archive, which is usually pretty correct. I've highlighted the 5998 settings, but since I've never used a 747 tester I can't really tell if they make sense. 5998 Here's the 6AS7 info, which maybe you can match to your manual and see if they are the same. That might serve as a good check that the 5998 data is correct.

Let me know if your Seamaster needs adopting.

I do not want to know what that smells like.

Easily fixed with a M-Audio Transit and still $50+ under budget. I'd rather buy a good DAC and adapt USB to it than to buy a bad DAC that happened to have a USB input.

My suggestion, buy The Monkey's Para 1000. It'll actually save you $$ vs. your budget which you can then apply to other things.

He should update his website then, it still very much says that they are going to mod your existing drivers.

I'd request the drivers back, they are not without value.

I think a lot of it is actually post production. There was a video posted not too long ago that detailed the work that went into photographing a product, it was insane.

!

Yeah, but you can have friends...