n_maher

Agreed, that's a beautiful image that you captured there Peter.

Give it some time.

Tom, this is Headcase, no one is going to care if you recommend the Max or the Torpedo over some other DIY kit. We all know who you are and what you do, no need to be cagey. I'm guessing given your reply that you don't agree with my recommendation so please share your thoughts on the subject. And to echo what RudeWolf said casework is difficult if you care what something looks like. I often used to say that stuffing the boards was less than half the work required to build an amp and I stand by that. Even when using a service like FPE you still have to do all the layout work to make sure that stuff is going to fit. Tom/Beezar have taken all of the worry out of that part of the equation and he doesn't charge nearly enough for what he provides.

Bourbon in hand, ass on couch, all is right with the world.

1. If you try to use a soldering gun on either of them you'll probably end up really unhappy. 2. The Bottlehead is really best suited for high impedance headphones (>200ohm). See Bottlehead's site for confirmation. Those two points aside both are pretty easy to build and if you can read instructions you shouldn't have any trouble. Of course, I'd recommend something different and suggest going with a Torpedo instead. The full kit is still under $300 (maybe not with shipping, but close) and I'd like to think it'd pair nicely. It may be even easier to build than the Minimax, I think it has fewer parts and doesn't have fiddly things like bias adjustments. But you do have to watch out since it (and the Bottlehead actually) use high-voltage B+ supplies.

agreed, that minor a glitch would be almost impossible as a hardware failure.

I hope to be watching it later tonight in glorious high-def.

Where does Todd say he'll only consider a balanced amp? He asked for suggestions for the LCD-3 (sort of) and used the Mjolnir as a starting point.

This seems like a decent deal - http://www.ttvjaudio.com/Apex_High_Fi_Audio_Arete_p/aaa0000011.htm.

This. And Shelly, how does it sound?

Nice Mike. I'm jealous, today is the warmest it's been all week at 15F.

Yup, that's the 4-pin layout that I've always used and if you ever need confirmation just look up the K1000 manual, that's where it all started as far as I can remember.

Congrats Vicki, wish I could say the same but given the recent refi I'm now just about as far away from paying it off as I've ever been...

Gazelle it.

Working on a little sumpin'. Al, hopefully a little pain now means less in the long run.

I thought you couldn't file until the 31st this year? I'm still waiting on mortgage interest info... Me - finally made it to the audiologist.

Good to know you're still around, Kerry. Don't be such a stranger.

Thanks Doug, that's good to know.

PM sent!

The part that I've used in the past is FQPF8N80C. They're in stock at Mouser but I'm just trying to avoid another order, if I can help it.

Parts help needed - somehow in my last Mouser order I forgot the 2 N-channel MOSFETs that I need for a KGSS power supply. Anyone have a couple spares kicking around that they could send my way. They are, predictably, the last two damn parts that I need to fully stuff the boards... @c12 - I do have a one of the 4ch alphas if you are still interested. Just drop me a line and we'll figure something out.

Define cheap.

Even top plates need love too. What I've found to help keep costs down is to not infill the engraving. Using a black panel makes it very easy but I was pretty happy with the silver on silver as well. It helps if you can use your own material but still, even those prices are pretty reasonable from both CE and FPE. That said, I did an awful lot of building using only a cordless drill and a single stepped drill bit. Chassis punches definitely help bridge the gap if a drill press ends up not being an option.

1. You can get the SKILL thru Amazon for $117, shipped free if you're a prime member and use the HC link to throw some $$ at Todd. 2. I agree that the lack of a worklight is a bummer. Even in a pretty well-lit shop I still loved having a light on my drill press and used temporary solutions on the milling machine to be able to see well enough. 3. How many panels do you have to do? While I clearly love doing things myself when it comes to panels, I'm pretty content these days to draw them up and send them to Heinz (camexpert) and have him do it. Even for pretty complex pieces I'm usually into them for less than $60 (if I already own the material) and the end product is much nicer than I could ever produce even when I had a multi-thousand dollar milling setup.