MASantos

What's this supposed to be? A recommendation? Any reasons? If you really want to post, post something useful and meaningful, not just the name of a headphone...

Why did you choose to go with nimh 9v instead of Li On polymer as in the pico slim? Getting around 18 would require 5x 3.7v batteries and for the same space of 2x9v you could get a nice increase in capacity. I understand it would cost quite a bit more, and would require more sophisticated charging circuitry(which you probably have from the other pico amps). Also, will it charge the batteries or have the option for dc power?

Actually there should be quite a few owners of stax headphones in Portugal as well of other high end headphones and amplifiers, but they're just not that much participant in forums. I remember a high end shop in Lisbon having some stax, at prohibitive prices though!

x5 x5 x5 x5 x5! [/neither could I!]

What do you call a deer with no eyes? No eye deer! What do you call a deer with no eyes and no legs? Still no eye deer!!

Happy belated birthday Wayne!

Just saw this, happy belated birthday!!

I'd recommend removing the nut, applying a bit of loctite on the top of the thread and then install the nut back again, this will allow the loctite to flow between the nut and bolt when you tighten it and make a better seal.

Payment sent for 16+priority mail shipping! Thanks once again Justin

Get some 1" rubber door bumpers + nuts and bolts or if you want to go fancy get some metal spikes. Lectite: Loctite Threadlocker Blue 242 from Loctite Adhesives blue is semi permanent, will break easily if you need to replace or remove a board, red is permanent and much harder to remove, often needing some sort of solvent to help. Just use a little dot of the stuff on the thread and then tighten the nut, it will dry and keep things together.

Thanks

Justin could you include some 5/16"-18 nuts and spacers with my order? It'll be impossible to find these locally.

Kevin, could you elaborate on this active battery regulator? I've started following the T2 thread recently and haven't read about this.

Everybody knows that NOS solder is better!!

That's quite a nice piece of wood you have there! Any reason why you didn't work it on a lathe? On a side note, there's a kitchen knife brand here in portugal that makes these really nice knives with Lingun Vitae handles. I've got a 30 year old one and it still looks like new!

This was a blind test using 3 cables, 1 from ratshak, and if I remember correctly one made of copper and another made of silver. They were all covered in a convering that wouldn't allow the person to identify the cable and using the exact same rca connector on all cables. each pair was marked with a triangle, square or circle and the person reviewing would write his opinions refering to these markings, and only a few people knew which was which. In the end few people prefered the ratchack cable I remember!

You should build two power supplies, one using each schematic and then tie the outputs together, they will cancel each others weaknesses! And get one of those power balance wristband stickers and glue it to the bass transformer, it should help too! I read it somewhere...

Shovel Audio unregulated PS!

Fixed!!

Going back to the amp department, you don't need much power, but you certainly need excellent channel matching and the pico slim would be a great choice here as ASR recommended as it has a really nice digital controlled attenuator. Some members reported positively about the pico slim + jh13

That's a nice touch, most AC filters and filtered IEC's don't have surge protection and they should. I have some industry around my place and the voltage tends to go north of 250v from time to time, quite a helpful part!

Those are varistors on the primary right?

Dew it!!

Regarding the IXIS parts, I'm sure a EU group buy can be arranged! Oh boy, I don't even own a STAX headphone! Yet...