mypasswordis

It's actually closer to 5.5" in diameter. I'd recommend asking Antek when the 350V 200VA trafo will be back in stock.

Good thing he got swole, can fend off the rabbits from his cables now

Anyone going coming from or passing through Manhattan?

Looks to be in good condition for something so old, looking forward to see how the refurb progresses. Too bad there's no space to fit a regulated PS in there. Is that green circular component a thermistor? Wonder why they decided to coil the leads like that, whatever it is, and for the... diode? too. Speaking of which, is it only half wave rectified? Edit: Nvm about the last part, missed it first time reading your post.

It very well could be, but it doesn't hurt to make sure. Hope it's nothing major as others have said. I currently lift at a gym whose coach once held a world record (I believe it was in the clean and press) and wrote an encyclopedia for weightlifting, and there are several members competing at the national level so it's very humbling to lift with them and everything is very technique based, both in terms of preventing injury and lifting heavy. That ends up being the first thing I think about when lifting. There are older members at the gym as well including a former Chinese national weightlifter, who can still squat pretty damn heavy.

To add to getting higher heel height shoes and warming up/stretching properly, there may also be a form issue. Were you going to parallel before and are trying to go deeper or above parallel and trying to get to parallel? Going to parallel (and especially pausing there) is the worst thing you can do for your knees. Are you high bar or low bar squatting? Think about lifting with the posterior chain at the bottom of the hole instead of with your hip flexors or knees, and always keep your back arched, core tight, and your torso upright, especially in a high bar squat. Maybe someone who goes to the same gym who you trust is knowledgeable in the squat can check your form.

Thanks, after the whole Dalbani fiasco it's not like anything else should be expected. I just find it funny that they're charging $112 for a fake part, at least the Ebay scammers are more modest. I was thinking of running the front end at 400V (more like 390V, but we'll see how close I can get with the zener references in the PS), which would be pushing the limits for sure with just a single part. Stacking also helps split the power dissipation for the small SOT223 package. Maybe I'll think up a clever way to put in a dropping resistor on the positive rail so I don't have to bother with all of that; suggestions are welcome. All CCSes will be on separate protoboards since I am building from the BATE PCB. I bought adapter boards here, they're super cheap and even come with 90 degree header pins: http://www.ebay.com/itm/271302222232?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Interesting, where do I get those? Bdent also has them for $9 and I see some guy on HF might be selling some. Meanwhile good old Dalbani is selling 1968s for $112.

Hope things get slightly less hectic for you guys. Also sorry for continuing to flog a dead horse, but if we can't find legit 1968s (unless we feel like paying $9 at Bdent) can we stack 1486/STN9360s or 1156s? I assume the Ebay 1968s are fake?

Heh, a man wants what a man wants, I'm with you on that. The idea is that they added the filter in so that it wouldn't sound strident. Of course you can bring up phase issues and impedance curves and all that. Yes, I have read reports of people removing it and claiming it sounds better but I'm also sure it's hogwash. There are simply compromises to be had in any approach, and AKG chose to go way out there with pretty much minimal open baffle so no impedance coupling or enclosure frequency tuning, some back wave cancellation, etc. Possibly the frequencies the notch filter is used on are the free air resonance of the driver. Personally I thought the treble with filter was fairly linear with a very slight euphonic rolloff. Another thing to consider is your serial number, mine was around 7000 so I was never sure if it was the bass heavy or bass light version. It sounded bass normal to me, other than the severe drop-off under 45Hz.

Of course, how did I forget. Interested to see how the KGST compares to the KGBH, hoping for my wallet's sake that it's close enough. Frankly I have almost exclusively used OEM earbuds straight out of my phone/laptop the past few years, so pretty much anything would be an improvement. Edit: Only difference I see are the 100 ohm input resistors and the servo is connected to the bases of the A970s instead of the 1486s? What else am I missing?

Wow you spend a lot on audio gear... btw since you like the SR007 treble I can see why the K1000 sounds strident to you

The frontend is from the KGSSHV so I guess you could make a EL34 output stage with 10M90S CCS, in which case it would just be an updated Blue Hawaii?

Perhaps you simply did not like the K1000 sound signature, or became too overwhelmed with all the different sound possibilities from adjusting the toe in and temple pads like I was at one point. It's definitely not for everyone, but neither is the HD800. I found the opposite actually, the HD800 seems more finicky about amplification than the K1000, which sounds decent as long as you give it enough power and can manage fiddling (or not fiddling, as the case may be) with the adjustments. Both are engineer's headphones which strive for technical perfection, but I think the glorious AKG mids/overall musicality bring it out on top. Others will prefer the bass extension, much lower power requirements, comfort, etc of the HD800. @ spritzer great news, please fill us in on details as they develop!

We have the K1000 for that Well, you do, I used to :/

Who's in to start the HC headphone manufacturing business? All we really need is a CNC, 3D printer, and someone good with fabrics/leather. We can be the Pagani of headphones.

yeah everything could do with moar plankton

nah it's just a picture of one in on elaborate troll

lol

lcdxc

There are tons of 555 based relay circuits on ebay and wherever else, pretty sure I'm going to use one of those. The T2 555 timer is configured for ~ 60 second delay but I can't be bothered to wait that long :/

dacs for speakers are completely different from dacs for headphones, just fyi

You probably should have googled the idiom before you posted it as well, so you would have a slightly better chance of getting it right. Best of luck with the T2 build.

Yes I know the supplies are stacked, just wanted to make sure two transformers can be stacked. Dumb question, but better safe than sorry. I should go over the enormous T2 thread at some point, I'm sure I'd learn a lot. Leaving things actually floating seems a bit scary to me (obviously I did not grow up in the tubes era) so I will tie to B-. That way I can make sure the heater-cathode voltage is in spec. Thanks, those connectors look really hardcore and are inexpensive to boot.

A simple google, HC, or HF search would easily show you how to tell the difference in about 30 seconds. Are you sure you are able to build the T2?