mypasswordis

Uhh I don't think they're pronouncing an 'ow' sound at all in those vids it's not quite the same as an ㄠsound anyway but more similar than ow. I spent most of the day soldering instead of talking to people

I can confirm the heatsink does in fact barely fit. Waiting on more parts and still deciding what to do about the power supply...

A few hours after I typed that post I wandered around the edge of the East River, sat down on a bench and it happened to be next to a really nice Korean girl who smiled at me a couple times. We got to talking and she said she moved to Dortmund, Germany 6 years ago which was a bit of a freaky coincidence. Her English was actually really good, considering the last time she was in the US was 8 years ago. We added each other on IG and said let's keep in touch but I don't want to interrupt her vacation. Now I'm thinking I should hit her up anyway and ask her to record herself so I can win a stupid internet argument.

Mind sending the schematic my way if he finds it? I can't imagine it's that different from the 3.0 schematic which you can just google and it's still even on their site... would assume the main difference between them is PMD200 vs PMD100 but who knows. Definitely hit him up again. I have found for the most part that waiting for customer service to get back to you just means absolutely nothing is happening.

What ended up happening with the Assemblage? Could pcx repair it or at least figure out the problem?

Thanks, I might take you up on that soon! Will shoot you a PM sometime in the next few weeks as I gather parts and figure everything else out. I only realized after I received it that the 50VA Antek HV transformers only have one HV secondary need to order a big fat 100VA one Having intact wrists and fingers is a plus.

Sadly I can't stick a nice big 80mm or 120mm fan in there as it is way too big for the case I want to use. Only a 40mm or possibly 50mm could be squeezed in, as the internal case height is 60mm and there's always additional stuff going on at the edges to hold everything together. The 40mm Noctua I was looking at, based on Marc's advice, is rated for 17.9 dBA and seems to get good reviews. It's also much easier to drill smaller holes in sheet metal 35mm or 1 3/8" seems to be about the max for normal unibits, just right for a 40mm fan. What's the best way to drill large holes bigger than 1 1/2 inch anyway?

Be careful and check datasheets as some SMD components are only rated to spec with 3 or so reflows, they get slightly worse after put through each thermal stress cycle Edit: forgot to add that you can buy a stencil of just the QFN package, make sure to do that first and then hand place the rest of the components near it before you reflow with hot air

Katz said the Utopia was the one with the channel imbalance, which he even "corrected" for, and apparently none of the listeners heard an imbalance on the LCD-4 despite it being up to 3dB different in the most sensitive audio region so after seeing the measurements I don't trust his/their hearing at all. That said, I wonder which version of Utopia I heard at Canjam as it was definitely bright in the upper mid to lower treble and a bit bass light.

Ooh, found it. Since it's single ended, once it reaches temperature there shouldn't be too much change so I can probably just set it and forget it. Might be interesting down the line to add code to my rpi server to automatically change pwm speed and manage bias levels based on temperature sensing presets for class ab. Also can make it remote controlled through web pages like with the vol ctrl. The srm212 is all about compactness and bang for buck.

Another Dusty approved meal, miso beef ramen at Kuu Ramen edit: Chinese pronunciation of ao in bao is closer to auf like in auf wiedersehen than ow sound. Or like bauhaus

Thanks! Not sure where I should be looking, on his website or his diyaudio posts? I did find a thread with someone using a Noctua fan in a heat tunnel on an F5: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/pass-labs/206756-f5-turbo-circuit-boards-36.html He gets to use a big fan which means low rpm and thus a lot quieter, but the 40mm doesn't seem too bad from reviews. There's even an adapter to slow the fan speed down from 4500 to 3700 rpm so I don't have to mess with PWM or voltage divider or something.

Chairman bao and birdhaus bao at Baohaus

Anyone ever tried them? If so, what setup worked best and how quiet were they? I've been thinking up logistics of the SRM212 I'm recasing with the new HV power supply. Thinking about using a small 40mm fan since the heatsinks I will be attempting to use (same ones as what I'm attempting to put in the mini Dynalo) aren't that big and I want to crank it to 10mA. I'll be using one per channel so 2 total and each will be dissipating around 11-12W. Guesstimating 4C/W rise on the sinks (no specs stated in the listing) that's around 75-80C on its own If it's 5C/W then it's really bad times.

Maybe just be very careful with a little hook to pull the metal out a bit? Obviously don't do it where it's touching the cover

Voting Seeeeed also Thanks for organizing this!

I was planning on using the above KSA5 dual stage zener capacitance multiplier, with ksa1156 and ksc5026 as pass devices. First zener stage set to 300V, second to 280V. Any reason why that wouldn't work? I know the pass devices would have to be mounted backwards because the pinout is opposite of the mjf. edit: given the thread it would definitely be more appropriate to use a GRHV but I had this board laying around for a long time whereas I'm hoping mwl168's group buy will pull through for GRHV boards

@Tinkerer 's power supply plan inspired me to swap out the onboard stepup switcher to a real regulated supply (modified ksa5 supply) and crank the bias. So far only got to the taking out the power supply part because I'm waiting on parts. Any advice on how to mount the output transistors to a heatsink much appreciated. I have some ideas so far but none of them jump out as ideal.

Congrat, and happy birthday!

A Celeron with 2gb memory? Are we back in 2005? I bought my thinkpad for $300 2 years ago, it has an i5, 8gb RAM, and a 160GB SSD. Also I have had very bad experiences with Dells in the past, not sure if they upped their quality in the last 5 years.

Uh oh, I see GeorgeP is crazy enough to want to set up another T2 run... are there going to be some CCS modifications to the board?

Anchorman (the first one) is one of my all-time favorite movies, every line is quotable Yazz flute scene gets me every time. The second one stinks

"wood and leather goods"

Found these on ebay, almost same size as your heatsinks at 45x35x18... did some quick measuring with ruler, looks like may work though lengthwise it is a little too exact. Maybe someone can find one with 50mm length Edit: Also, anyone know if doing outboard TPS regulators with heatsinks can dissipate more than doing it on board? I want to use the same power supply to power the ubal to bal SMD boards from the most recent group buy

Interesting, thanks! What heatsinks are you using? Found a more manageable size than a full roll: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Adafruit/1468/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsMyYRRhGMFNiXkQBm6C%2fDzTH5xAw3Ul9o%3d