mypasswordis

Thanks for the pics. Is there anything you can tell me about dimensions? It looks like the cup is curved on the inside to minimize bad reflections and also angled, which agrees with the stock pics on the internet. Also, do the cups have anything other than fiberglass? I can't tell in the first pic since it's a bit blurry. While I'm at it, what happens to the sound of the Lambda Pro if I remove the stock damping like Kai did? Also, where exactly is the port? I'm a bit daft, I need it to be pointed out to me.

Does anyone happen to have info on the 4070 cups? What kind of wood it uses, other materials if any, dimensions (doesn't have to be exact), where the bass port is, how angled the drivers are, etc.

That's the problem. We don't really know much about anything other than the T50RP because no one has bought a T20RPMkII and bothered to post about it that I know of and only Dusty has bought a T40RPMkII, and has given fairly limited impressions. They all supposedly use the same drivers but who knows what effects the different housings may have on sound. I'm really curious as to how the T40RPMkII sounds since I love my first gen T40.

It's driven easily by most DAPs so definitely.

I can't even tell what I'm looking at in those pictures. Do they light up when you press the centers?

Looks like they tried to copy a Chinese knock-off.

Why does your spelling of definitely keep getting worse? Whatever the reason, it's hilarious. Someone should crown the man as the King of Spontaneous Funny.

The locking connector should be able to come straight out. Mine was a bit hard to get out the first time and I had to wiggle it a bit before it came loose but now it comes out easily. No innuendo. Edit: Nice job on the innuendo, manaox.

Do you think asking Yama's would be any cheaper? I need to buy a pair of SR-5 pads, might as well pick up a pair of black Lambda pads.

No, it's fine. I would've posted it here as well if I wasn't afraid of getting the post removed due to my somewhat newbie status. I don't want to say anything in the way of my own FS post but there's plenty to read up on about normal bias vs pro bias Lambdas on HF and probably here as well (I haven't bothered to look through this thread). I'm just sad one of them has to leave. I hope I can acquire another later on, when funds allow.

Looks familiar...

Well, I thought the stock sound was dominated by the bloated low mids because of the resonances from the cups. As I keep saying, once I added some damping to the cups and a layer of felt on top of that to absorb backwave, the bass punch/impact I get is huge. Easily the most of any of my headphones. Everything becomes more right and you can begin to start tinkering like you would normally do with the other orthos. Well, minus the front fabric; I'm still not sure whether I should cut a hole in it. I think the lightning fast and huge punch is partially provided by the decoupling of the drivers to the cups using the little rubber things, which doesn't really work until the cups can handle it. Faust, you have to hear my T40. Sure, it's not going to beat out your Sigma or even your Lambdas in size of soundstage, but it's nearly at the level of the Lambdas, which is better than most orthos, and I think the soundstage is slightly better defined as well.

A bra? Or are you talking about some jewelry to take the eyes off the sag? Beyond badass. You're definitely spot on about that. I just thought it was a little weird that it sounds like the stock T50RP has tighter or as tight bass than the heavily modded YH3.

Typically that's exactly what they are, although anything that reflects backwave can serve as one, as I found out after taking off a layer of filter material I was supposed to be using as damping. They don't even have to be circular. Are you sure the bass is tight? Is your T50RP still stock? I had the impression that the sound was muddy. Only when I damped the chassis did the bass hit hard and fast. I did experience the exact same effect of the highs coming in a bit more and needing a bit more turn of the volume knob for the same sound level after a day or so of burn-in. I luckily have had no contact problems with my locking plug.

Hopefully Dusty is coming over sometime in the next few days and I can take pics if he hasn't already. My usual pics, the ones with poor lighting, poor photography, on a poor sad camera.

Probably because the box houses the transformers. For headphone use, you'd have to relocate the transformers into a separate box... and they're ridiculously expensive. The magnets are pretty heavy as well. Can't move those, though.

Yeah, I totally want some ribbon headphones, too...

You could try making a headphone from AMT drivers for fun, in the meantime: Simply Speakers-Speaker Diaphragm Repair Kits, Parts for Tweeters, Midranges and Woofers Actually, a transplant into a Lambda frame might work pretty well. Edit: More sizes: http://www.speakerrepair.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=10-128&Category_Code=ESS-Diaphragms

It's gotta be magic! It's gotta be! Colin, I wish you could come over again and hear the T40 again to make sure I'm not going nuts. That's probably not enough reason to, but once I get some decent pads, and make something I'm willing to bet is going to be very very nice with the Alpha Pro drivers, you gotta come over. I'll probably have fixed up and modded the ESP10 by then also. I'll let you know when I finish, which shouldn't be until mid to late March. But damn.

Ah, I thought we had tried to standardize our felts nomenclature awhile back so that we could have repeatable results, but it seems that that's been undone. I think wool obtained from natural sources does have more ability to soak in backwave rather than reflect it due to its more rough nature.

It's the designation us early ortho adopters call felt with a certain percentage of wool in it. I forget what the percentage was, maybe around 30%? We call the completely synthetic stuff craft felt, the felt with no wool. I'm not sure what we call 100% wool felt. Then there's the special stuff ludoo has to offer, like cashmere felt and whatnot.

Oh, my bad.

No, just like the YH-3's, they require a fair bit of modding to sound their best. I agree that stock they sound pretty bad, muddy, rolled off, uncontrolled, bad, not good, etc. Most orthos sound pretty bad stock, actually, from my experience, an exception being the YH-1. Look through some of Faust's earlier posts in this thread for one possible way of modding the T50RPv2. I chose to do it another way, but it pretty much accomplishes the same thing. The headphone chassis is desperately in need of damping and the backwave is desperately in need of controlling/diminishing. I personally prefer a brighter sound, so I'm going to damp the backs of the drivers even harder than I am now, and I already have one layer of superfelt put on. Edit: What cetoole said.

My sentiments, exactly. If it turns out to be better than the T40v1 I'll finally have found enough perfection to stop looking. I can't wait.