mypasswordis

The last time I used an electric razor, I grew a whole bunch of nasty bumps on my upper lip from the skin irritations. I'm going to go full-blown wet shaving soon. There definitely is a sizable layer of dead skin and oil that comes off when I shave.

Those changes in sound make sense since the back wave won't just bounce right back into the ear after having been messed with by the cups. I think I would definitely prefer the sound after your mod and really need to get around to venting my T40. I don't want to try drilling a bunch of holes through the cups just yet. My T50RP is in a better place now so I can't try it on that, and the T20v2 is already vented. A better enclosure would also definitely help, but I don't have the means for that to happen.

Yeah, how does making the YH100 open affect sound besides making it smooth? It seems like you can still stand to listen to closed-backs with vents, eg the patented SmeggyPuck.

Did he make/wield giant hammers?

Are there any outer differences between the SR-3 and SR-3N and SR-5 and SR-5N?

Speaking of pretty stuff... No, wait, I just bought another pair of headphones (or at least am about to) that are valid contenders for ugliest headphones ever, the Superex PEP-74. I'd say they're only outdone by a very select few, for example some of the old Koss crappyphones and the TakeT H2. They are definitely uglier than any of the Float-style frames.

For some reason, the well worn-in pads leak enough of the bass that the sound is actually fairly well balanced as it is. I don't think you need to fiddle around with it much to get it to sound decent, maybe slap a disc of craft felt in for good measure.

It definitely isn't raining here. I just ran in about half an inch of snow.

Which is sad, because you can build your own badass transformer box for the prices the Stax transformers boxes are going for (well, the ones with pro bias). It's definitely been on my mind, but I think I'd choose either this new amp for the same price or the KGSS for more first since I don't have a good speaker amp to use anyway.

I... don't. I have a cockatiel, but she's back home, and would probably bite if i tried petting her. Now I'm wondering if I should pet my headphones anyway... they're all I have.:'(

Plain Jane face is a bit of a killer for me in real life, but good when dealing with headphones. Also, I laugh every time I see supermodels wearing those ridiculous wings, and if they can't pull off looking hot in them, no one can.

Yeah, it's definitely the housing. I just don't have the skills and tools required to make a new one and/or make extensive modifications to the stock one.

Sweet, now I can make my headphones furrier and pet them when I'm bored and they're sitting on my lap.

I think your impressions are completely out of whack. You've completely put me off from wanting an O2Mk2, gross. And the HE60 sounds kinda kinky, I'm not sure if I'm into that. The K701 sounds pretty good from your description but is kind of just blah when I listen to it.

I despise bluetak. Gross, gets all over everything, gets hard and not very sticky after awhile, annoying to remove. I hate it almost as much as I hate dealing with cotton balls. But that's just me.

What the hell? I don't know the details, but the wait time is almost on a level with Singlepower. Someone needs to fix his amp, stat. Back on topic: Philips EM 6721

You should re-get an ESP10 and mod it for supreme awesomeness. And then tell me what you did so I can do it on mine. I really think I'm done, between the Jecklin, Lambda/Pro, SR-3/5 Pro that I haven't even made yet, ESP10, and maybe Fostex T40v1. I'm completely satisfied switching between these "few" and the only place I can go from here is the SR-007, and I'm not even quite sure it's for me.

I'm going to have to measure the PS2 transformer box one of these days. I don't have the Koss one or I'd measure that as well. Plus I already rewired the ESP10 for Stax.

I hope it does, too. ericj's is probably pretty big as well, and don't forget about wertherDVX. I'm now back down to only two orthos, the T20v2 and the T40v1, the first two I started out with, so my collection is pretty much the opposite.

Kabeer, did you ever get the TDS-16 (I think that's what the Russian large driver ortho was called)? If you did, how is it? Yeah, I'm willing to bet smeggy's T50RP sounds pretty good... He's gonna get another one to play with soon (mine).

It's the drivers in coordination with the configuration of the rest of the headphone that makes a headphone sound good. Nothing can substitute for good old common sense and actually putting some thought into making a headphone sound good. The SR-007, being Stax's flagship TOTL headphone, has had some thought put into it. These ortho clones went for less than 100 bucks back in the 80s. It seems that adding some distance between the drivers and the ears solves this issue for the T50v2 clones, which makes sense. I'd like to see how well a T50v2 clone would do with SR-007 pads and a better non-resonant frame. And while the SR-007 driver can't necessarily be called big, it can't be called small either.

It is a huge oversimplification but there are many many things that a large driver can handle without outside help like bass that allow for a headphone configuration with the best possible sound. With little drivers, especially in the case of orthos, there's always a balance to be figured out between bass and treble, and usually a compromise is reached (ie missing a bit of extension on both ends). This is also why most orthos are closed+vented with supraaural pads and have small earcup volume, which has to do with the limited excursion of planars.

Circumaural + moar trebles = win. I think I do have to at least try a large driver ortho some time in my life. I've tried the largest electrostatic headphone driver and think it's absolutely fantastic. Bigger does seem to be better in the case of drivers.

I had to rewire my ESP10 to even use them since I don't have the stock transformer box so I rewired them for pro bias Stax so I can plug into either normal or pro bias on my SRM-1 or normal bias from my SRD-7. Too bad they're supposed to be run at something in between. Only problem is I can't figure out a good way to solder up the connections for the Stax plug (I bought a WPI plug) and to have them protected from each other and from the outside. Ideas? Edit: Forgot to say, the ESP10 is a bitch to drive. Easily the toughest of all my electrostats. Edit 2: Anyone know a good place to get some silver mica caps for my ESP10?

Wut? The ESP10 runs at ~450V bias, the Jecklins run at 1.2kV, and electrets run at no bias, since they hold a quasi-permanent charge.